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Jeff
 
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Its a bit pricey, but you can put in an Echo Charge ($129 from West,
as low as $100 elsewhere) that will limit the current to 15 Amps. I
just set up up for my two starting batteries, which are latched
together for charging with a combiner.

Frankly, I would (in fact I did) simply run the big wires and forgo
the dedicated battery. Since the engine is usually running when we
haul anchor, this allows the windlass to be driven by the higher
alternator voltage, which overcomes the voltage drop of the wires.
The complications of mounting another battery, and maintaining it
seems far worse than running a pair of heavy wires. BTW, the "hammer
crimp" tool for heavy wire (West, about $40) works just fine for
adding lugs after running the wire.


Doin it right wrote:
I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with
large wires is a major job.

I am thinking of placing a dedicated battery up with the windlass and
running smaller wires from the main bank where the charger lives

Question:

How do you protect the smaller wire from over current? I am thinking
about a situation where the windlass battery is dead. The windlass will
try to draw current from the other bank. I can/will install a breaker of
course. But I was wondering if there are any other tips and tricks in
respect to the installation I have in mind.

Basically the house bank is charged from a charger/inverter, engine and
solar bank. There is a large (4 gauge I think) pair of wires that feed
from the batteries to a breaker panel half way to the windlass location.
I was thinking of running the new wires from the breaker panel to the
windlass location, with the understanding that when charging, the
voltage and current from the charge source will come from the breaker
panel.

Anybody have an thoughts to share?

Thanks!