If you knew exactly what was going on inside those splices, the know
wouldn't look so unreliable. It's all just friction. If you are
letting your halyards flog around enough that there is any risk of a
knot like that getting loose, you are doing something wrong.

The splice looks neater and more techie. It has a micro amount less
windage in a place that doesn't matter. Most important, it makes
twenty bucks for the marine store every time someone asks for one.
Then another twenty when they want to move the wear point or a whole
new halyard if the don't. Good deal for them.

If you ever have to go up the mast and snag a run away halyard with a
boathook, you'll be glad of that knot. The splice taper would have
jambed in the sheave while the weight of the knot and the clean stop
will let it come back easily.

I never heard of that knot but it's a great one and designed to be
used on that probably flogged and flapped around more than any others.

--

Roger Long

In "Roger Long" writes:

If you knew exactly what was going on inside those splices, the know
wouldn't look so unreliable. It's all just friction. If you are
letting your halyards flog around enough that there is any risk of a
knot like that getting loose, you are doing something wrong.

The splice looks neater and more techie. It has a micro amount less
windage in a place that doesn't matter. Most important, it makes
twenty bucks for the marine store every time someone asks for one.
Then another twenty when they want to move the wear point or a whole
new halyard if the don't. Good deal for them.

I do not understand why you must pay for the splice. There are lots of
good books and web-pages where they teach you to make one. Of course it
takes some practice, but after you learn it, you can use your skill for
the rest of your life, or as longa as your fingers hold.

If the deal is so good fot them, then you have a business after you
learn how to do it. :-).

If you ever have to go up the mast and snag a run away halyard with a
boathook, you'll be glad of that knot. The splice taper would have
jambed in the sheave while the weight of the knot and the clean stop
will let it come back easily.

I do not think so if you have rope sheaves and your sheave box is of the
proper size. The splice (properly done) is tapered and you can use a
small plastic "ball" above the shackle so that you do not pull it in the
sheave box. A properly done splice is in no way inferior to a knot and a
proper not will hold. The main difference is of course in the appearance
and the splice is in the traditional sense more seamanlike.

I never heard of that knot but it's a great one and designed to be
used on that probably flogged and flapped around more than any others.

So far the only real argument for the not against the splice is the
price. You can get some free tuition in making splices at most big
boatshows, as the makers of the ropes have demonstrations how the
splices are made.

- Lauri Tarkkonen

Agreed. Brian Toss's video on splicing double braid is a great investment.
With a little practice you can put a very neat splice in even really hard
stuff like T-900.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Splicing these newer high tech ropes is not something I want to learn
for a critical application in the couple of days before the mast has
to go up.

--

Roger Long

My new boat came with four nice fenders with whips spliced directly
on. The morning after the first night of the delivery home (on the
Erie Canal) one was missing because the splice had slipped loose. On
inspection, another was ready to go. Clearly the splicing task had
been given to "the new guy" and nobody double checked. I replaced
most of the splices on the boat with knots. The halyards had been
tied with bowlines - they had been changed before I raised the sails
the first time!

If you must splice onto something like a fender, its better to first
splice a eye, then pass the eye through the hole, and pass the bitter
end through the eye. This will put more tension on the rope itself,
and not on the splice.



Roger Long wrote:
If you knew exactly what was going on inside those splices, the know
wouldn't look so unreliable. It's all just friction. If you are
letting your halyards flog around enough that there is any risk of a
knot like that getting loose, you are doing something wrong.

The splice looks neater and more techie. It has a micro amount less
windage in a place that doesn't matter. Most important, it makes
twenty bucks for the marine store every time someone asks for one.
Then another twenty when they want to move the wear point or a whole
new halyard if the don't. Good deal for them.

If you ever have to go up the mast and snag a run away halyard with a
boathook, you'll be glad of that knot. The splice taper would have
jambed in the sheave while the weight of the knot and the clean stop
will let it come back easily.

I never heard of that knot but it's a great one and designed to be
used on that probably flogged and flapped around more than any others.