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#1
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Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. |
#2
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No, it won't ruin the wood, but it'll turn gray and the grain will become
very rough. If you ever decide to renew it, it'll take a heck of a lot of sanding to get it smooth again. Some folks oil it, but here on the Gulf Coast, it will just turn black. Cetol is probably the easiest stuff to work with, if you don't mind the orange color, although they do have a gloss topcoat now. I use Honey Teak on mine... very pretty and durable. Once applied, it only takes a maintenance coat once a year or so. http://www.fabulainc.com/ -- Keith __ Things that make you go Hmmm... If Cher were to get cloned, would she be Cher and Cher alike? remove the * (Norm) wrote in message ... If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. |
#3
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote: If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to brightwork upkeep. I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three coats of Cetol on. That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and cover the boat for six months a year. During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me another two years. Every five years, it's a complete re-do. R. |
#4
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Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and two hurricanes, it is untouched. Good luck with your teak Bruce "rhys" wrote in message ... On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the * (Norm) wrote: If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to brightwork upkeep. I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three coats of Cetol on. That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and cover the boat for six months a year. During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me another two years. Every five years, it's a complete re-do. R. |
#5
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"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
... Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product from Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and two hurricanes, it is untouched. Good luck with your teak Bruce Is that the Nauticoat line? I didn't know they made a clear primer. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#6
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I am doing all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. So far it is
going very well. Easy to apply as well and purportedly last 4 years in northern lats and 1.5 to 2 years in the tropics. Doug s/v Callista remove the * (Norm) wrote in message ... If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. |
#7
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote: If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the years? What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would be great. After 15 years and a couple of scraping sessions, I have almost got rid of the varnish on my teak. I don't know how hard it would be to revarnish, and I don't intend to find out. Most of it peeled off in the first year, bu tthere were stubborn spots that seemed as if they would never peel. Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a "WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light |
#8
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Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon" Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. Total BS. Capt. Bill |
#9
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All my brightwork was done in Cetol ( 3 coats Lite, 3 coats clear).
Lasted a year in FL and the Bahamas and then back up to the Chesapeake. If it is done right, it will last a while. Doug s/v Callista "LaBomba182" wrote in message ... Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond? From: "Bruce on horizon" Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. Total BS. Capt. Bill |
#10
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Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5 years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak 'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad and apply with a soft artist's brush. Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com. I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand (2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy. I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and look like **** and ****-light). Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses adhesion and eventually lifts. |
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