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#1
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Doug,
One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
#2
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:15:55 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? ========================================== What we are talking about here is a "chain hook" not a "chain stopper". I have both on my trawler. THe chain stopper came as standard equipment and is deck mounted just forward of the windlass. It is of heavy duty bronze construction, with a pivoting pawl which flips down and grabs a chain link. I believe it may have been made by Galley Maid in FL but I'm not sure. Their phone number is 561-848-8696. Ask for Jimmy, he is alledged to know everything. The chain hooks were purchased at W-M. Mine are shackled to 3/4 inch nylon line via an eye splice and thimble. The slot in the hook is barely larger than a 3/8 chain link and tends to grab on fairly snuggly. I've never had one shake loose accidently and it would be virtually impossible unless the hook line were totally slack. |
#3
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It seems from other migrations of this thread that what's wanted in the
original wasn't a stopper... We have two hawse pipes with all chain on the two primary anchors, a vertical windlass for rope and chain, and no stoppers. Our prior owners made up a short airline cable Y with thimbles and nicopress (wish they'd shrink-wrapped them!!). Three caribiners connect to a pad eye and the two anchor chains. Not a tensioner, but certainly insurance against failure or moving out in lumpy water. That's pretty inexpensive :{)) L8R Skip and Lydia -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
#4
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So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the
windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Appreciatively, Courtney Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:15:55 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote: Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? ========================================== What we are talking about here is a "chain hook" not a "chain stopper". I have both on my trawler. THe chain stopper came as standard equipment and is deck mounted just forward of the windlass. It is of heavy duty bronze construction, with a pivoting pawl which flips down and grabs a chain link. I believe it may have been made by Galley Maid in FL but I'm not sure. Their phone number is 561-848-8696. Ask for Jimmy, he is alledged to know everything. The chain hooks were purchased at W-M. Mine are shackled to 3/4 inch nylon line via an eye splice and thimble. The slot in the hook is barely larger than a 3/8 chain link and tends to grab on fairly snuggly. I've never had one shake loose accidently and it would be virtually impossible unless the hook line were totally slack. -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
#5
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Hi, Courtney,
"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Appreciatively, Courtney I've not (yet) had occasion to double anchor other than to throw out the Fortress with mostly-rope rode when I was concerned about dragging once on the trip. I use the line-and-hook snubber, backed up with the cable-to-chain, further backed up with the chain in the gypsy. If I were using the secondary all-chain anchor, I'd also have the line-and-hook snubber (we have two) but only the cable-to-chain as backup. I'd probably go around the third cleat (a PO addition) with the chain as a final snubber insurance. In the case of the snubber rode, I leave a pretty fair amount of slack in the chain so as to make the rope rode/snubber have to stretch *a lot* before it would make the chain tug. I confess to using just the catenary in calm conditions. Having dragged a lot in the Virgins on the trash anchors the charter companies provide, I overdo my scope, usually aiming for 7-1. With a heavy chain, that provides a lot of yank resistance, anyway. If you were looking for a "serious" stopper/snubber, there are a variety of over-center tensioned ones listed in other responses. I see no reason one would remove the windlass, as an off-center pull would be more trouble in raising and lowering than in keeping it in place, at least IMO. If I were concerned to the level of wanting that sort of snubber, I'd put them aside the windlass just far enough out to avoid fouling the chain(s) on their way in and out. HTH... L8R Skip (and Lydia, who, today, is ready to shoot herself it she can't get on the boat pretty soon!) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
#6
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:49:45 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? If you have a strong point forward of the windlass there would be no need to move anything, otherwise probably yes, or more definitively, "it depends". :-) Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Mostly I use it to relieve the load on the windlass before backing down hard on the anchor, and also for the duration of being anchored. (the chain stopper can also serve the same purpose). The advantage of the chain hook is two fold, the nylon line introduces some stretch and shock absorption, and also allows the load to be transferred to a hawse pipe which is at a lower angle that the pulpit roller. The bearings and shaft seals of a windlass do not like being under high load for any extended period of time, and will fail prematurely unless precautions are taken with either a chain stopper or chain hook line. |
#7
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Wayne,
I fail to see how to utilize a mounted stopper unless it's forward of the windlass,..... which in my case would require dismounting the windlass, installing a stopper, remounting the windlass; which means.... a bridled chain hook is looking, relatively, most appealing :-) Also, more stuff's got to break before the anchor chain's loose. What am I missing ? Thanks, Courtney Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:49:45 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote: So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? If you have a strong point forward of the windlass there would be no need to move anything, otherwise probably yes, or more definitively, "it depends". :-) Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Mostly I use it to relieve the load on the windlass before backing down hard on the anchor, and also for the duration of being anchored. (the chain stopper can also serve the same purpose). The advantage of the chain hook is two fold, the nylon line introduces some stretch and shock absorption, and also allows the load to be transferred to a hawse pipe which is at a lower angle that the pulpit roller. The bearings and shaft seals of a windlass do not like being under high load for any extended period of time, and will fail prematurely unless precautions are taken with either a chain stopper or chain hook line. -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
#8
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 17:39:34 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: I fail to see how to utilize a mounted stopper unless it's forward of the windlass,..... ==================================== That is correct, a mounted stopper must lie along the path of the chain between the windlass and the anchor roller. If you have no space available along that path, or if the space is not structurally strong enough to support high lateral loads, then a stopper is out of the question. A chain hook is certainly a reasonable alternative, with or without the bridle. |
#9
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Comments below.
Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? The purpose of the grabber is to distribute the load across the bow cleats. This reduces swinging at anchor. The chain would have to fall up in order to exit the grabber. A good sized loop of chain is left between the grapper and the bow, this keeps it in place. I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Correct. Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
#10
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One more thing. The nice thing about the Grabber is that it eliminates
the noise of the chain rattling around on the bow roller all the time as happens with a stopper. The stopped is alot easier to use though. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
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