On Thu, 20 Aug 2009 15:28:15 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:



Good point. Tung oil will dry to hardness as it oxidises, just like
the linseed used in so much paint.

I used to use boiled linseed oil on just about everything wood.
Looks real good rubbed on a nice grain.
They say it'll darken with age, but I never had what I used it on long
enough to find out.
Used it on weathered wood before painting, but I know in some cases it
served no purpose in stopping rot.
Think I used it because I liked the smell of it, and it was a pleasure
to rub on wood and bring out the grain.
Non-waterproof coatings for outside wood is just a fetish.
Stain if needed, then use a good waterproof varnish.
Strip and redo when the varnish fails.
IMO.

--Vic

"Vic Smith" wrote:

Non-waterproof coatings for outside wood is just a fetish.
Stain if needed, then use a good waterproof varnish.
Strip and redo when the varnish fails.
IMO.


If you truly want to protect exterior wood, it is expensive but
straight forward.

Strip to bare wood, then apply 4-5 coats of laminating epoxy, sanding
lightly between coats.

It is absolutely essential that 100% of the wood is totally sealed.

Allow to cure for 30 days, sand lightly, then apply 2-3 coats of
marine 2 part poly to totally seal the epoxy and thus provide UV
protection of the epoxy.

Maintenance consists of maintaining the poly which protects the epoxy
base coat.

Lew