It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat and
when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many students
are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of dragging or
they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat. Whatever. Those
notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the remote,
which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm interested in
anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral, I walk to the
bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I let it
out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay it out
again until I have the proper scope. If there is any decent wind or current,
I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor off
(or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the boat is
moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor off the
bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat drifts off
to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not be short
enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get the boat
back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to finish the
job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom, then there's
a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the rode
at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have more
precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all the
inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop fouling
by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
ons...
It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat and
when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many
students are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of
dragging or they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat.
Whatever. Those notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and
we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the remote,
which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm interested
in anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral, I walk to
the bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I
let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay
it out again until I have the proper scope. If there is any decent wind or
current, I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor
off (or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the
boat is moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor off
the bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat
drifts off to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not
be short enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get
the boat back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to
finish the job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom,
then there's a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the
rode at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have
more precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all the
inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop
fouling by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Firstly about dropping anchor. I do not like your method of drifting forward
in neutral until the boat stops because this method does not allow you to
drop precisely where you want to, even if you are able to do it while head
to wind. Why not select your spot and stop the boat in reverse on arrival
and then just give her a little astern motion while you drop?
Your method seems likely to allow the rode to pile up on top of th anchor
and may cause a foulup. If you are going slowly astern while you drop you
avoid this and then when scope is roughly right give a harder kick astern to
dig the anchor in. then when she is settled and swung to the anchor you can
fine tune the amount of rode you have out.
Now, to retrieve it single handed I do not agree that one cannot pull an
8000 lb boat up by hand , unless of course there is a strong wind. My boat
weighs 16000lbs and in light winds I can pull her up to the anchor by
sitting on the foredeck with my feet braced into the anchor well and haul
her up till the rode is vertical or nearly so. Of course it is not a 'hand
over hand' job. You give a strong heave and give her time to respond before
you heave again. If there is too much wind give her a kick ahead with the
engine and get back up there fast to recover some more rode. Repeat as
necessary until the rode is vertical.
My anchor weighs 35 lbs and the chain part of he rode probably about
another 40, so if it is well dug in there is no way one can just pull it up.
I make fast the vertical rode and give her a good kick ahead to free the
anchor, then stop the boat again and go forward and pull it up. My anchor
does not come aboard-it stows onto the roller so getting it up and securing
it does not take long.
I do not like the idea of moving the boat with the anchor dangling but if
circumstances demanded immediate movement as soon as the anchor came free I
would go astern as my boat is extremely manoeverable in reverse and there is
no chance of the anchor swinging back under the boat and.causing a foulup.
If you were on a lee shore where going stern is not an option I would go
dead slow ahead with autopilot engaged and concentrate on getting the anchor
up as fast as possible.
Hand winches are so slow that unless you have a very big boat they only
complicate the above procedure. An electric winch makes everything simpler
on deck, at the cost of more mechanical and electrical complication below
decks, plus considerable financial cost, of course.

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
ons...
It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat
and when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many
students are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of
dragging or they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat.
Whatever. Those notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and
we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the
remote, which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm
interested in anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral,
I walk to the bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the
anchor. I let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out,
snub, pay it out again until I have the proper scope. If there is any
decent wind or current, I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor
off (or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the
boat is moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor
off the bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat
drifts off to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not
be short enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get
the boat back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to
finish the job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom,
then there's a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the
rode at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have
more precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all
the inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop
fouling by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Firstly about dropping anchor. I do not like your method of drifting
forward in neutral until the boat stops because this method does not allow
you to drop precisely where you want to, even if you are able to do it
while head to wind. Why not select your spot and stop the boat in reverse
on arrival and then just give her a little astern motion while you drop?

Actually, it's pretty precise, which is why I do that. If I motor up to a
spot and stop, I would no longer be at that spot nor stopped by the time I
got forward and deployed.

Your method seems likely to allow the rode to pile up on top of th anchor
and may cause a foulup. If you are going slowly astern while you drop you
avoid this and then when scope is roughly right give a harder kick astern
to dig the anchor in. then when she is settled and swung to the anchor you
can fine tune the amount of rode you have out.

Nope. I said, "when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I
let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay it
out again until I have the proper scope." I guess I should have said,
although it seemed obvious that there is a wind effect that backs to boat,
allowing me specifically not to pile up rode.

Now, to retrieve it single handed I do not agree that one cannot pull an
8000 lb boat up by hand , unless of course there is a strong wind. My boat
weighs 16000lbs and in light winds I can pull her up to the anchor by
sitting on the foredeck with my feet braced into the anchor well and haul
her up till the rode is vertical or nearly so. Of course it is not a 'hand
over hand' job. You give a strong heave and give her time to respond
before you heave again. If there is too much wind give her a kick ahead
with the engine and get back up there fast to recover some more rode.
Repeat as necessary until the rode is vertical.

Define strong wind. Anything over about 10 kts, which is typical around here
would make it impossible to move the boat. For the last class, we were
anchoring in over 15kts. What works for me, although as I said I have to be
pretty accurate, is to get the engine speed to just barely move the boat
ahead, snub as necessary, then get it settled down and finish the job.

My anchor weighs 35 lbs and the chain part of he rode probably about
another 40, so if it is well dug in there is no way one can just pull it
up. I make fast the vertical rode and give her a good kick ahead to free
the anchor, then stop the boat again and go forward and pull it up. My
anchor does not come aboard-it stows onto the roller so getting it up and
securing it does not take long.

This isn't an issue. My Bruce is much smaller and there isn't much chain.
You're correct that if it did get stuck, I would motor over it while
snubbing to break it free. It's all mud out here.

I do not like the idea of moving the boat with the anchor dangling but if
circumstances demanded immediate movement as soon as the anchor came free
I would go astern as my boat is extremely manoeverable in reverse and
there is no chance of the anchor swinging back under the boat and.causing
a foulup. If you were on a lee shore where going stern is not an option I
would go dead slow ahead with autopilot engaged and concentrate on getting
the anchor up as fast as possible.

Not sure what you're trying to say here... if the rode is snubbed short and
the boat speed is low (why wouldn't it be?) then foulups aren't likely.

Hand winches are so slow that unless you have a very big boat they only
complicate the above procedure. An electric winch makes everything simpler
on deck, at the cost of more mechanical and electrical complication below
decks, plus considerable financial cost, of course.

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get a
bigger Bruce.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

"Capt. JG" wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

Think windlass.

Lew

"Wayne.B" wrote:

Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

With or without a snubber?

Lew

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get
a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.


I would still be concerned about retrieving it... perhaps more so if the
windlass quits.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...


Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard