On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 23:46:35 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:58:04 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)
I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard


I've seen a couple of guys try that - special permanent nozzles aimed
at the rode as it spools in. Doesn't work well as mud is not always in
the same place.

I use a hose with nozzle connected to the salt water washdown
connection. One foot on the switch and lean over the bow pulpit and
spray where it is needed.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I imagined aiming through the anchor roller.
Just deluge the whole thing while the line is coming up.

But, as you say, it probably would still need to be cleaned afterwards.

Foot on the switch...
Man, the luxury of a proper yacht!

I'd settle for a spare two speed winch!

Richard

One of the guys that rigged the automatic anchor washer was one of
these guys that are GONNA MAKE IT WORK! He frigged with that thing
most of the summer. After several months I noticed it wasn't there any
more. "Oh Ho! Took it off?" says I. "No", says he and launches into a
long drawn out explanation of why he had to fix it, realign it, I
don't know what all. I noticed that he never reinstalled it :-)

The electric winch was on the boat when I bought it AND a two speed
manual winch for the stern anchor..... I took the stern anchor system
off and have the manual winch stored; in case I ever need it.

One advantage of buying a used boat is they usually come equipped with
all sort of add-ons.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:51:13 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


I would suggest that your proposed 1" rode would be somewhat of an
overkill.
Although the possibility of chafe is a factor the breaking strain of your
5/16 chain is about 3 tons, while the breaking strain of 1" dia nylon is
about 10 tons. Certainly you must consider safety factors and the question
of chafe on the nylon but I would suggest 14mm nylon instead , which would
allow you to stow a longer length of it.

It probably is overkill. On the other hand I got it cheap. A chap
ordered a spool of 1 inch and after it arrived decided that he really
didn't need all that rope so gave me 100 M. It fitted, carefully
packed, in one locker under the vee birth; I spliced a thimble in the
end and decided that it was an emergency mooring/anchor line.


Yes, can't argue with that!

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:33:42 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Yep. I'm mostly in the SF bay, but do take overnights in the bay and in
other nearby places. If you're careful about where you stop, you can
always get decent holding. My Bruce is in the same range. I think my old
boat shoe would hold well in bay mud. If I was going anywhere of
significance, I would upgrade the current Bruce. (I also have a backup
Danforth 13 in a lazz.)

What is your Danforth like? I imported my boat from USA and it came with
Danforth bower and kedge anchors.
The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
.. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the rode.
By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of only
just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient. Moreover, what happens to
such a thin shank when the anchor is dug well in and the tide turns? . It
has got to bend.
I have the thing at home and am reluctant to sell it on because some
unsuspecting person might rely on it for serious work. Yet it claims to be a
genuine Danforth.
IIRC Danforths were invented during the war to haul landing craft back off
the beach but I feel pretty certain that they used to be more substantially
made than this one. The smaller kedge has never been used and therefore
still bears a label claiming to be a genuine Danforth. Something is wrong
somewhere.

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Casady

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Yep. I'm mostly in the SF bay, but do take overnights in the bay and in
other nearby places. If you're careful about where you stop, you can
always get decent holding. My Bruce is in the same range. I think my old
boat shoe would hold well in bay mud. If I was going anywhere of
significance, I would upgrade the current Bruce. (I also have a backup
Danforth 13 in a lazz.)

What is your Danforth like? I imported my boat from USA and it came with
Danforth bower and kedge anchors.
The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of
only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient. Moreover, what
happens to such a thin shank when the anchor is dug well in and the tide
turns? . It has got to bend.
I have the thing at home and am reluctant to sell it on because some
unsuspecting person might rely on it for serious work. Yet it claims to be
a genuine Danforth.
IIRC Danforths were invented during the war to haul landing craft back off
the beach but I feel pretty certain that they used to be more
substantially made than this one. The smaller kedge has never been used
and therefore still bears a label claiming to be a genuine Danforth.
Something is wrong somewhere.



My main hook is a small Bruce. The Danforth is small also. I forget the
sizes.

I haven't actually used the Danforth on my boat for more than a stern hold
for an hour or so. I've used Danforths for years and they work fine in bay
mud.

I like the Bruce quite a bit, since if it does drag, it does't flip over.

I'm making the assumption that it's truly a real Danforth, but I'd have to
look again. I believe it's stamped, but not certain now that you mention it.

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27, which is smaller than mine. My recollection
is that there are a couple of boats in the 36 foot range in our marina that
have them hanging off the front, so I suppose someone is using them. They
don't look particularly huge.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Bilge pumps are designed for high volume and low pressure. A wash
down pump needs just the opposite. There are several 12 volt pumps
suitable for wash down but a lot of bigger boats are using 110 volt
well pumps because they are durable and a good value.

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Bilge pumps are designed for high volume and low pressure. A wash
down pump needs just the opposite. There are several 12 volt pumps
suitable for wash down but a lot of bigger boats are using 110 volt
well pumps because they are durable and a good value.

Continuing the good advice here...

Mount the wash down pump pretty low - the closer to the water line
the more pressure you'll get from the output.

Sure, they say they can self prime 6 feet or more, but that reduces
pressure at the output.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com