In article , Edgar wrote:

"Justin C" wrote in message
...
In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Thickness of metal

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

"Justin C" wrote:

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Unless the chain is made in the USA, chances are pretty good metric
size wire was used to form the links.

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

Lew

In article , Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Justin C" wrote:

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Unless the chain is made in the USA, chances are pretty good metric
size wire was used to form the links.

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

"Justin C" wrote:

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic
in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my
eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

When it comes time to update, take a piece of chain, say 500mm, and
match it to the gypsy before purchase.

No point in making life miserable of either.


Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Justin C" wrote:

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

When it comes time to update, take a piece of chain, say 500mm, and match
it to the gypsy before purchase.

No point in making life miserable of either.


Lew

While chain is machine made and therefore should be consistent in quality
throughout its length, if you plan to use it on a winch you should, as Lew
has already stated, ensure that it fits your gypsy but should also include
the word 'calibrated' in your order otherwise you will have no come-back if
the chain will not run right through its length without jamming at some
point.

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:55:07 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get
a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.


I would still be concerned about retrieving it... perhaps more so if the
windlass quits.

Many windlasses have a manual over ride for just such an emergency.
Very slow, but will get the anchor up. You can also use a halyard and
winch to pull up about 40 feet of chain at a time. Again, not
convenient, but it will get you home.

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 15:37:19 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward. You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.


I've done that many times. I have a rope rode with 25 feet of chain at
the end.

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:48:47 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

One advantage of buying a used boat is they usually come equipped with
all sort of add-ons.

Yes, and with any luck some of them actually work. :-)

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 23:26:33 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I guess I lucked out. 'Valkyrie' came with a Simpson Laurance 2-speed
manual windless with what I can only think to call a "universal
gypsy". It will take just about any size chain. My main rode is 3/8"
chain with a screw link down to 5/16" chain. I think those are the
sizes. Anyway, it goes from one size to the other with no problem at
all. The link "openings" in the gypsy are tapered on all four sides,
so any size within the limits does fine. The larger the chain, the
higher it rides, but it all just easily falls into place. Very handy
to be able to mix and match so to speak.

To get back on topic. Single handed anchoring is pretty much as Capt.
JG said in the original post. If under power, the power is cut and the
autopilot keeps headed into the wind. I walk to the bow and wait for
the forward motion to stop, then release the anchor. If under sail, I
use the jib only, turn into the wind, activate the autopilot and roll
up the jib. "Valkyrie" displaces 24,000 lbs so she does coast quite a
bit.

Retrieving is with the manual windless. The two speed makes it easy.
Usually I'll hoist the main just before the final anchor pull out with
the mainsheet about full out. If a tight anchorage I'll forgo the sail
and have the engine idling. When the anchor breaks loose I go back,
put in gear, apply just enough power to have steerage and set the
autopilot. I can then go forward and finish retrieving the anchor.

If winds and seas are high, I can still use the windless by timing the
winching to when the bow comes down. I have cranked up the engine
under these conditions with the rudder centered and retrieved the
chain by hand. The problem with this is running back to throttle back
and go to neutral. It's a matter of timing and if off it can get a bit
interesting! The former is a lot better, if slower. But then if one is
in a hurry one has no busingess on a sailing vessel. That's the real
key to any aspect of single handing. Plan ahead and take your time. If
you do that, about anything is possible.

Rick

"Rick Morel" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 23:26:33 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I guess I lucked out. 'Valkyrie' came with a Simpson Laurance 2-speed
manual windless with what I can only think to call a "universal
gypsy". It will take just about any size chain. My main rode is 3/8"
chain with a screw link down to 5/16" chain. I think those are the
sizes. Anyway, it goes from one size to the other with no problem at
all. The link "openings" in the gypsy are tapered on all four sides,
so any size within the limits does fine. The larger the chain, the
higher it rides, but it all just easily falls into place. Very handy
to be able to mix and match so to speak.

To get back on topic. Single handed anchoring is pretty much as Capt.
JG said in the original post. If under power, the power is cut and the
autopilot keeps headed into the wind. I walk to the bow and wait for
the forward motion to stop, then release the anchor. If under sail, I
use the jib only, turn into the wind, activate the autopilot and roll
up the jib. "Valkyrie" displaces 24,000 lbs so she does coast quite a
bit.

Retrieving is with the manual windless. The two speed makes it easy.
Usually I'll hoist the main just before the final anchor pull out with
the mainsheet about full out. If a tight anchorage I'll forgo the sail
and have the engine idling. When the anchor breaks loose I go back,
put in gear, apply just enough power to have steerage and set the
autopilot. I can then go forward and finish retrieving the anchor.

If winds and seas are high, I can still use the windless by timing the
winching to when the bow comes down. I have cranked up the engine
under these conditions with the rudder centered and retrieved the
chain by hand. The problem with this is running back to throttle back
and go to neutral. It's a matter of timing and if off it can get a bit
interesting! The former is a lot better, if slower. But then if one is
in a hurry one has no busingess on a sailing vessel. That's the real
key to any aspect of single handing. Plan ahead and take your time. If
you do that, about anything is possible.

Rick



"Otto" sure helps. I have a remote, which is even nicer. Set me back a
couple of boat bucks, but it was worth it.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com