On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 19:47:27 GMT, "Dennis Gibbons"
wrote:

Your setup violates good seamanship. You should never have a drain
connecting into the cockpit scuppers. Any possible clog could cause the
cockpit to fill and you know what happens then.

Yeah....that's the reason I've my current dilemma.

Both the forward sink, and the aft sink ran to the cockpit drain
through hull.

The forward sink was an easy fix. There was a through hull already in
place directly underneath.

The aft sink also has a through hull directly under it, but the
plumbing from holding tank and the fore and aft heads is connected to
it.

The 1/2" intake for the heads is approx 4 feet further away and I
think a bit too small to use as a drain.

I think I might try Peggy's idea of using a sump. ...the shower sump
is on the other side of the bulkhead.

It might be the best I can do...not having a first choice.

Horace Brownbag wrote:
The aft sink also has a through hull directly under it, but the
plumbing from holding tank and the fore and aft heads is connected to
it.

The foreward head discharge hose runs that far aft? How long IS that
hose? Optimally, head discharge hose should not exceed 6'...'cuz that's
as far as bowl contents will move in the amount of time 99.999% spends
pumping the toilet. Significantly longer leaves waste sitting in the
hose to permeate it.

The 1/2" intake for the heads is approx 4 feet further away and I
think a bit too small to use as a drain.

Head intake and sink drain SHOULD both be 3/4". If yours is only 1/2",
it's too small for either. 4' isn't too far unless the route leaves a
sag in the hose.

I think I might try Peggy's idea of using a sump. ...the shower sump
is on the other side of the bulkhead.

It might be the best I can do...not having a first choice.

It might be time to redesign the whole system!

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 16:01:27 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Horace Brownbag wrote:
The aft sink also has a through hull directly under it, but the
plumbing from holding tank and the fore and aft heads is connected to
it.

The foreward head discharge hose runs that far aft? How long IS that
hose? Optimally, head discharge hose should not exceed 6'...'cuz that's
as far as bowl contents will move in the amount of time 99.999% spends
pumping the toilet. Significantly longer leaves waste sitting in the
hose to permeate it.

The 1/2" intake for the heads is approx 4 feet further away and I
think a bit too small to use as a drain.

Head intake and sink drain SHOULD both be 3/4". If yours is only 1/2",
it's too small for either. 4' isn't too far unless the route leaves a
sag in the hose.

I think I might try Peggy's idea of using a sump. ...the shower sump
is on the other side of the bulkhead.

It might be the best I can do...not having a first choice.

It might be time to redesign the whole system!

Thanks, Peggie. You gave me an idea....

The 1/2" inlet turns out to be 3/4". I think I'll make that the head
inlet and the sink drain.

The forward head...well, it's approx. 10 feet from the holding tank,
and I don't envision modifying it to put a holding tank within a
reasonable distance to the head....and I'm not sure I want the hassle
from the Coast Guard for having a direct discharge head...even if the
aft head goes into a holding tank, and is the only one used when we
are not out.

Horace Brownbag wrote:
The forward head...well, it's approx. 10 feet from the holding tank,
and I don't envision modifying it to put a holding tank within a
reasonable distance to the head....and I'm not sure I want the hassle
from the Coast Guard for having a direct discharge head...even if the
aft head goes into a holding tank, and is the only one used when we
are not out.

Easily solved: put a y-valve in the line so you can flush it directly
overboard...tie-wrap the seacock or the y-valve handle closed when
you're inside the "3 mile limit," and you'll be in 100% compliance with
marine sanitation laws, so the CG won't have any reason to hassle you.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 02:59:19 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Horace Brownbag wrote:
The forward head...well, it's approx. 10 feet from the holding tank,
and I don't envision modifying it to put a holding tank within a
reasonable distance to the head....and I'm not sure I want the hassle
from the Coast Guard for having a direct discharge head...even if the
aft head goes into a holding tank, and is the only one used when we
are not out.

Easily solved: put a y-valve in the line so you can flush it directly
overboard...tie-wrap the seacock or the y-valve handle closed when
you're inside the "3 mile limit," and you'll be in 100% compliance with
marine sanitation laws, so the CG won't have any reason to hassle you.

I've done this on my Great Lakes boat with no problem. I have (from
the hull up)

a seacock,
a six inch piece of marine hose (double clamped both ends)
a reducing T-fitting to a 3/4" water intake to the head (just below
the waterline and double SS-hose clamped)
about a 12 inch length of double SS-hose clamped marine hose
a plastic ballcock with appropriate barbs
a short length of clamped hose going into the drain pipe (about 10
inches) of the head sink.

Methodology is as follows:

Normally, both seacock on hull and the plastic ball valve are CLOSED.

When I want to use the head, I reach into the space beneath the sink
and open the seacock. The hoses fill with water, slightly under
pressure as the entrance is about 18 inches beneath the waterline.

I use an old Brydon manual head that's about kaput, but it works for
the light duty I subject it to.

When finished, I flush to a 30 gallon holding tank.

I close the seacock.

To empty the sink, I simply open both the plastic ball valve and the
seacock. Grey water leaves the boat. I suppose a smidgen might get
into the head intake pipe, but visually, at least, this is not an
issue.

No problems in three years with this, except for a visit to the
Travelift when the seacock split due to "failure to winterize
properly" by me.

If Peggie says this is OK, feel free to swipe this "design".
Obviously, an offshore set-up would be simpler, but I flush WITH the
lake, not INTO the lake G.

R.

rhys wrote:

I've done this on my Great Lakes boat with no problem. I have (from
the hull up)

a seacock,
a six inch piece of marine hose (double clamped both ends)
a reducing T-fitting to a 3/4" water intake to the head (just below
the waterline and double SS-hose clamped)
about a 12 inch length of double SS-hose clamped marine hose
a plastic ballcock with appropriate barbs
a short length of clamped hose going into the drain pipe (about 10
inches) of the head sink.

Methodology is as follows:

Normally, both seacock on hull and the plastic ball valve are CLOSED.

When I want to use the head, I reach into the space beneath the sink
and open the seacock. The hoses fill with water, slightly under
pressure as the entrance is about 18 inches beneath the waterline.

I use an old Brydon manual head that's about kaput, but it works for
the light duty I subject it to.

When finished, I flush to a 30 gallon holding tank.

I close the seacock.

To empty the sink, I simply open both the plastic ball valve and the
seacock. Grey water leaves the boat. I suppose a smidgen might get
into the head intake pipe, but visually, at least, this is not an
issue.

No problems in three years with this, except for a visit to the
Travelift when the seacock split due to "failure to winterize
properly" by me.

If Peggie says this is OK, feel free to swipe this "design".

Works ok for me.

Obviously, an offshore set-up would be simpler, but I flush WITH the
lake, not INTO the lake G.

Actually, you don't have a choice...it's illegal to flush directly
overboard--or dump a tank--in any US and most Canadian inland waters
including the Great Lakes. You must be out to sea at least 3 miles from
the nearest point on the whole US coastline to legally do either.

The only thing at issue, though, is where the DISCHARGE from the toilet
goes...the flush water source doesn't matter. So there's no need to
"secure" an intake thru-hull in any waters, only any overboard discharge
thru-hulls and/or y-valves coming OUT of a toilet or tank.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 19:57:45 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Works ok for me.

Glad to hear it...it's the sort of "brainwave" you don't want to have
bite you aftwards down the line.

snip

The only thing at issue, though, is where the DISCHARGE from the toilet
goes...the flush water source doesn't matter. So there's no need to
"secure" an intake thru-hull in any waters, only any overboard discharge
thru-hulls and/or y-valves coming OUT of a toilet or tank.

Just the deck fitting and the vent...sorry, spider nursery...

R.