Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look, I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

I've used a paint from Petit (I think) made for interiors that has a
mildewcide in it, and it did quite well. It's bright white,but you should be
able to add pigment.
"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years. Don't
feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so
popular.

Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier to
use than a lot of the boat paints.

I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried aboard
in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a "Wal-Mart"
bag.

MMC

"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

Ditto on the oil based paint.
If you can spray (no runs and sags and dribbles), good old Rustoleum
works well on interior surfaces. Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.

In article , MMC
wrote:

I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years. Don't
feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so
popular.

Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier to
use than a lot of the boat paints.

I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried aboard
in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a "Wal-Mart"
bag.

MMC

"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

I suggest you use a satin or semi-gloss - looks better. I used Z Spar
- they make flat, semi and gloss - you won't use much so use the best
you can find for washing durability.

On 24 May 2004 02:52:11 GMT, (MLapla4120) wrote:

Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look, I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

Marine vs. non-marine is a point well taken, and I enjoy finding non-marine
substitutes myself. But with the small quantity used, it didn't seem a big
deal at the time.

But you've got me wondering; would oil base paint encourage mildew more than
water base? I know you can add a mildewcide to paint, but because mildew had
been a problem, I jumped on the Petit product.

"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Ditto on the oil based paint.
If you can spray (no runs and sags and dribbles), good old Rustoleum
works well on interior surfaces. Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.

In article , MMC
wrote:

I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years.
Don't
feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so
popular.

Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier
to
use than a lot of the boat paints.

I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried
aboard
in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a
"Wal-Mart"
bag.

MMC

"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional
look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.


What is the roll and tip method?

Thanks

I suggest you use a satin or semi-gloss - looks better. I used Z Spar
- they make flat, semi and gloss - you won't use much so use the best
you can find for washing durability.

I'm definitely not going to use alot and I
don't want it to shine or reflect light very
much. That could be annoying and the
wrong look. So I guess, it's going to be
semi gloss.

Garland,
Our local Ace hardware sells small bottle of 25% TBT for house painting here
in FL.
And being here in FL, we have to try to keep the boats as dry as possible,
since the place is mostly swamp. It's essential to make sure the wood is dry
before painting. Any existing mildew can be killed with bleach.
MMC.
"Garland Gray II" wrote in message
news:qnusc.52827$pJ1.11515@lakeread02...
Marine vs. non-marine is a point well taken, and I enjoy finding
non-marine
substitutes myself. But with the small quantity used, it didn't seem a big
deal at the time.

But you've got me wondering; would oil base paint encourage mildew more
than
water base? I know you can add a mildewcide to paint, but because mildew
had
been a problem, I jumped on the Petit product.

"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Ditto on the oil based paint.
If you can spray (no runs and sags and dribbles), good old Rustoleum
works well on interior surfaces. Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.

In article , MMC
wrote:

I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years.
Don't
feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so
popular.

Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier
to
use than a lot of the boat paints.

I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried
aboard
in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a
"Wal-Mart"
bag.

MMC

"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional
look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The
trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a
good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks

Roll and tip: is a method using a very thin knap (1/8 or 1/4 "
thickness foam) roller to apply the paint/varnish in a very even
thickness.
Since the roller will leave an orange peel finish you immediately
'wipe' the surface of the applied paint with a 'dry' brush to knock
down any prominences (orange peel) with the brush but not brushing so
hard that you 'move' any of paint around. If the paint is thinned
correctly the surface will 'almost' look like it was a sprayed-on
finish.
The roller puts on a uniform coat thickness, the dry brush knocks down
the wet imperfections. You usually need to wet sand between coats to
insure a very flat surface finish.
If you want perfection, then let the paint fully dry .... for semi
gloss: flat sand with 1000 and hand rub with rotton stone & oil or fine
pumice and oil; for ultra gloss - flat sand with 2000 grit then hand
rub with rotten stone and water - especially dazzling for
semi-transparent paints.

(BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a
broom)

Thinning is done using a flat glass plate held vertical to test for the
correct amount of thinner vs. paint/varnish. You apply the
paint/varnish to the glass with a brush and watch for sags and runs to
develop; if not then keep adding *teeny* bits of thinner until the
paint 'just starts' to run from the vertical surface. Every 'trial' is
followed by cleaning the glass plate with thinner and a rag. Once you
correctlly thin, the paint will *flow* correctly and will level out any
brush marks but not so thick that it will run/sag, the brush marks will
dissapear and the paint will immediately start to 'skin-over'. Takes
a bit of patience in correctly thinning to the desired effect. You
just keep adding paint/varnish or thinner until the paint/varnish on
the glass plate doesnt run or sag ... or dry out too fast and leave
brush marks. Thinning depends on the temperature and the humidity at
the time. Sometimes, like on a very humid day, you will find that you
will need a little "japan dryer" so that the (oil based) paint/varnish
sets up a little faster ... and then wont run/sag.
For most 'fancy' work I still prefer lead based paint ... still
available for 'sign painting' .... but obviously not available in
eco-nazi states like MA, NJ or CA (or other places with high
infestations of 'democrats' ;-) ).

Hope this helps.


In article , MLapla4120
wrote:

Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.


What is the roll and tip method?

Thanks