I use a short foam roller (West System epoxy rollers cut in half). One
person rolls the paint (thinned to just about sagging) and the second person
follows with a good quality brush (using just the tips of the bristles, held
at 90 degrees) and "tips" the bubbles.
Roll horizontally and tip vertically.
Works for me.
MMC.
"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...

Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.


What is the roll and tip method?

Thanks

Great explanation. Like the glass plate testing.
MMC
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Roll and tip: is a method using a very thin knap (1/8 or 1/4 "
thickness foam) roller to apply the paint/varnish in a very even
thickness.
Since the roller will leave an orange peel finish you immediately
'wipe' the surface of the applied paint with a 'dry' brush to knock
down any prominences (orange peel) with the brush but not brushing so
hard that you 'move' any of paint around. If the paint is thinned
correctly the surface will 'almost' look like it was a sprayed-on
finish.
The roller puts on a uniform coat thickness, the dry brush knocks down
the wet imperfections. You usually need to wet sand between coats to
insure a very flat surface finish.
If you want perfection, then let the paint fully dry .... for semi
gloss: flat sand with 1000 and hand rub with rotton stone & oil or fine
pumice and oil; for ultra gloss - flat sand with 2000 grit then hand
rub with rotten stone and water - especially dazzling for
semi-transparent paints.

(BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a
broom)

Thinning is done using a flat glass plate held vertical to test for the
correct amount of thinner vs. paint/varnish. You apply the
paint/varnish to the glass with a brush and watch for sags and runs to
develop; if not then keep adding *teeny* bits of thinner until the
paint 'just starts' to run from the vertical surface. Every 'trial' is
followed by cleaning the glass plate with thinner and a rag. Once you
correctlly thin, the paint will *flow* correctly and will level out any
brush marks but not so thick that it will run/sag, the brush marks will
dissapear and the paint will immediately start to 'skin-over'. Takes
a bit of patience in correctly thinning to the desired effect. You
just keep adding paint/varnish or thinner until the paint/varnish on
the glass plate doesnt run or sag ... or dry out too fast and leave
brush marks. Thinning depends on the temperature and the humidity at
the time. Sometimes, like on a very humid day, you will find that you
will need a little "japan dryer" so that the (oil based) paint/varnish
sets up a little faster ... and then wont run/sag.
For most 'fancy' work I still prefer lead based paint ... still
available for 'sign painting' .... but obviously not available in
eco-nazi states like MA, NJ or CA (or other places with high
infestations of 'democrats' ;-) ).

Hope this helps.


In article , MLapla4120
wrote:

Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.


What is the roll and tip method?

Thanks

On Tue, 25 May 2004 00:15:27 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

(BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a
broom)

Oh, great...who's going to pay for this coffee-stained monitor, I'd
like to know? G

R.

(MLapla4120) wrote in message ...
I'm definitely not going to use alot and I
don't want it to shine or reflect light very
much. That could be annoying and the
wrong look. So I guess, it's going to be
semi gloss.

Like you, we were drawn to off-white or very pale cream. We used matte
(satin) rather than semi-gloss because we were in many cases painting
ply panels, and any gloss at all will reveal every bump in the wood
and every flaw in your painting. The disadvantage of matte is that
scuffs can occur easily and can not be readily cleaned; but a periodic
dab with matte paint makes everything new again. You can see some of
the results at http://www.casualsailor.com/ThisOldMotorYacht10.shtml
and elsewhere on our site.

Good luck!

E.J. Bleendreeble
http://www.casualsailor.com

Roll and tip: is a method using a very thin knap (1/8 or 1/4 "
thickness foam) roller to apply the paint/varnish in a very even
thickness.
Since the roller will leave an orange peel finish you immediately
'wipe' the surface of the applied paint with a 'dry' brush to knock
down any prominences (orange peel) with the brush but not brushing so
hard that you 'move' any of paint around. If the paint is thinned
correctly the surface will 'almost' look like it was a sprayed-on
finish.
The roller puts on a uniform coat thickness, the dry brush knocks down
the wet imperfections. You usually need to wet sand between coats to
insure a very flat surface finish.
If you want perfection, then let the paint fully dry .... for semi
gloss: flat sand with 1000 and hand rub with rotton stone & oil or fine
pumice and oil; for ultra gloss - flat sand with 2000 grit then hand
rub with rotten stone and water - especially dazzling for
semi-transparent paints.

(BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a
broom)

Thinning is done using a flat glass plate held vertical to test for the
correct amount of thinner vs. paint/varnish. You apply the
paint/varnish to the glass with a brush and watch for sags and runs to
develop; if not then keep adding *teeny* bits of thinner until the
paint 'just starts' to run from the vertical surface. Every 'trial' is
followed by cleaning the glass plate with thinner and a rag. Once you
correctlly thin, the paint will *flow* correctly and will level out any
brush marks but not so thick that it will run/sag, the brush marks will
dissapear and the paint will immediately start to 'skin-over'. Takes
a bit of patience in correctly thinning to the desired effect. You
just keep adding paint/varnish or thinner until the paint/varnish on
the glass plate doesnt run or sag ... or dry out too fast and leave
brush marks. Thinning depends on the temperature and the humidity at
the time. Sometimes, like on a very humid day, you will find that you
will need a little "japan dryer" so that the (oil based) paint/varnish
sets up a little faster ... and then wont run/sag.
For most 'fancy' work I still prefer lead based paint ... still
available for 'sign painting' .... but obviously not available in
eco-nazi states like MA, NJ or CA (or other places with high
infestations of 'democrats' ;-) ).

Hope this helps.


In article , MLapla4120
wrote:

Otherwise, a properly thinned oil
based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll
and tip' method.


What is the roll and tip method?

Thanks, outstanding post!

"MMC" wrote:

I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years. Don't
feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so
popular.

Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier to
use than a lot of the boat paints.

I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried aboard
in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a "Wal-Mart"
bag.

Ditto - we just use ordinary house paint from the hardware store. The
more important thing is to prepare the surface properly - to get it
free of grease and sand it lightly to give the paint something to
attach to - otherwise it may peel off.

You can put mildewcide in the paint if you want. We haven't when
painting vertical surfaces. We mostly get mildew on the overhead.
You can wipe the surface that's mildewed down with bleach, or use that
orange cleaner, or vinegar which will kill it also if you don't object
to the smell.

"MLapla4120" wrote in message
...
Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim
which is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks



grandma Rosalie

Subject: Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
From:

Hi,
In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look,
I'm
going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim which
is
teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good
paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used.

Thanks





I've been using top quality "home" latex and oil paints on the interiors of
most of the boats I have been painting with great results.

Beats the Hell out of the high cost of "marine" paint. And you can get tons of
custom colors.


Capt. Bill

Capt. Bill