Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan

Steve Lusardi wrote:

If my previous post still has not convinced you otherwise, the correct way
to connect one is to intercept the return water line from the engine to the
heat exchanger and connect in series the transfer coil in the colorifier at
that point.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:38:20 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan

Juan, standard procedure is to hook it in series. Break the fresh
water cooling return line from the heat exchanger, go through the
calorifier from the heat exchanger then to the return line. No
pressure drop involved, you're simply circulating the water as before.
In fact, it's a good thing because now you've added to the volume of
your fresh cooling water by the amount of the hoses and calorifier.

On our sailing yacht, which is home, 20 minutes of running gives us 6
gal of 180 deg F shower water. Our water heater is well insulated so
we have hot water for about 10 hours or so after shutting the engine
down.

Rick

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Rick Morel wrote:

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:38:20 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan

Juan, standard procedure is to hook it in series. Break the fresh
water cooling return line from the heat exchanger, go through the
calorifier from the heat exchanger then to the return line. No
pressure drop involved, you're simply circulating the water as before.
In fact, it's a good thing because now you've added to the volume of
your fresh cooling water by the amount of the hoses and calorifier.

On our sailing yacht, which is home, 20 minutes of running gives us 6
gal of 180 deg F shower water. Our water heater is well insulated so
we have hot water for about 10 hours or so after shutting the engine
down.

Rick

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Rick, then there is no need of an additional thermostatic valve? and the
water flows first through the calorifier and then trough the sea water
heat exchanger? I assume a calorifier has only very little pressure drop
and does not influence the total water flow, is this correct?

I am thinking on a small calorifier like yours, 25 liters or 6 gal,
preparing the boat for a longer cruise as soon as our young daughter
gets 5 years old and before she enter school. Maybe half a year or
longer, maybe to the Caribean..
Juan (Barcelona, Spain)

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:23:32 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Rick, then there is no need of an additional thermostatic valve? and the
water flows first through the calorifier and then trough the sea water
heat exchanger? I assume a calorifier has only very little pressure drop
and does not influence the total water flow, is this correct?

Yes, no additional thermostat. The regular engine thermostat regulates
the cooling water temperature. The shower water in the calorifier will
be about the same temperature as the cooling water. If your engine
runs at 180 deg F, the calorifier water will be about 180 deg F once
it all equalizes.

No, the water flows first through the heat exchanger and then though
the calorifier. I'm not sure that it really matters. You've got me
curious, but I would think that the water exits the heat exchanger a
bit cooler than the thermostat setting. This would be good because 180
deg hot water is a bit HOT! I'm going to check the temperatures with
my infrared thermometer next weekend when we go to the boat. I'll let
you know.

Anyway, cooling water exits the heat exchanger, goes to the
calorifier, then exits the calorifier to the engine return.

No, doesn't influence the total water flow or very little. Boats have
been using this for at least 50 years or more. It's really just like
in your car, where the cooling water goes though the heater core. Just
about every car manual says to turn the heater on if the engine
overheats to get extra water and a bit more cooling from the airflow
over the heater core.

I am thinking on a small calorifier like yours, 25 liters or 6 gal,
preparing the boat for a longer cruise as soon as our young daughter
gets 5 years old and before she enter school. Maybe half a year or
longer, maybe to the Caribean..
Juan (Barcelona, Spain)

Taking "Navy showers", this is enough for each of us to take a shower,
one right after the other and still have hot water left over to wash
dishes. Of course we usually shower together, but sometimes... :-)

Rick
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Rick,
That is backwards. The colrifier must be in the engine return water path,
not the engine feed.
Steve

"Rick Morel" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:23:32 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Rick, then there is no need of an additional thermostatic valve? and the
water flows first through the calorifier and then trough the sea water
heat exchanger? I assume a calorifier has only very little pressure drop
and does not influence the total water flow, is this correct?

Yes, no additional thermostat. The regular engine thermostat regulates
the cooling water temperature. The shower water in the calorifier will
be about the same temperature as the cooling water. If your engine
runs at 180 deg F, the calorifier water will be about 180 deg F once
it all equalizes.

No, the water flows first through the heat exchanger and then though
the calorifier. I'm not sure that it really matters. You've got me
curious, but I would think that the water exits the heat exchanger a
bit cooler than the thermostat setting. This would be good because 180
deg hot water is a bit HOT! I'm going to check the temperatures with
my infrared thermometer next weekend when we go to the boat. I'll let
you know.

Anyway, cooling water exits the heat exchanger, goes to the
calorifier, then exits the calorifier to the engine return.

No, doesn't influence the total water flow or very little. Boats have
been using this for at least 50 years or more. It's really just like
in your car, where the cooling water goes though the heater core. Just
about every car manual says to turn the heater on if the engine
overheats to get extra water and a bit more cooling from the airflow
over the heater core.

I am thinking on a small calorifier like yours, 25 liters or 6 gal,
preparing the boat for a longer cruise as soon as our young daughter
gets 5 years old and before she enter school. Maybe half a year or
longer, maybe to the Caribean..
Juan (Barcelona, Spain)

Taking "Navy showers", this is enough for each of us to take a shower,
one right after the other and still have hot water left over to wash
dishes. Of course we usually shower together, but sometimes... :-)

Rick
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 14:01:16 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Rick,
That is backwards. The colrifier must be in the engine return water path,
not the engine feed.
Steve

That's what I wrote, in the return. Juan had it backwards and I was
correcting him.

Rick
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Rick Morel wrote:

On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 14:01:16 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Rick,
That is backwards. The colrifier must be in the engine return water path,
not the engine feed.
Steve

That's what I wrote, in the return. Juan had it backwards and I was
correcting him.

Rick
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Thank you , Rick and Steve

That is backwards. The colrifier must be in the engine return water path,
not the engine feed.

Not so. Calorifier connections can be taken off and returned before
the thermostat housing or either side of the thermostat housing - out
to cal before thermostat and return after, or worst case both after
the thermstat housing. I had a calorifier coil connected the second
way and engine had no problems heating up to correct temp. In fact I
now have a substantial heat exchanger in place of the calorifier so
that the engine heats up the entire CH system - 2 calorifiers and 14
radiators. When I had an airlock in the keel cooling system, engine
cooling was achieved using the radiators.
http://www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk/inte.../image179.html

On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:11:28 -0700 (PDT), CS
wrote:

Not so. Calorifier connections can be taken off and returned before
the thermostat housing or either side of the thermostat housing - out
to cal before thermostat and return after, or worst case both after
the thermstat housing. I had a calorifier coil connected the second
way and engine had no problems heating up to correct temp. In fact I
now have a substantial heat exchanger in place of the calorifier so
that the engine heats up the entire CH system - 2 calorifiers and 14
radiators. When I had an airlock in the keel cooling system, engine
cooling was achieved using the radiators.

That makes sense. I was going with the "standard" setup as used here
in the US. I would think the cal / water heater should be downstream
of the heat exchanger only to keep the temperature of the heated water
a bit lower.

Logic says it really shouldn't matter which way or even how many as
long as all the goodies are connected in series. The water will
circulate no matter what. I would think the only thing that could
cause a problem would be to go to a smaller hose/tubing that could
cause a restriction.


http://www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk/inte.../image179.html

WOW! Beautiful job on everything!


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **