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Juan Bassols October 10th 08 09:54 PM

installing a calorifier
 
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!

Steve Lusardi October 11th 08 05:43 AM

installing a calorifier
 
Juan,
Terrible idea, they are useless. For those readers that do not know what a
calorifier is, he means a fresh water heat exchanger that uses engine
coolant to heat drinking water.

Their use unbalances your engine cooling system which causes the engine to
run too cool. If your engine runs too cool, condensated water inside the
motor doesn't get boiled off and mixes with the sulpher in your lube oil.
This forms sulferic acid, which corodes your oil and creates excessive
sludge. This is the very least damage you can expect. On the other side of
the system, they don't create enough hot water, they take up too much space
and the temperature of the output water varies wildly. There is also a
distinct possibility that a leak will occur, which will contaminate your
drinking water supply and may be undetected. This represents a very serious
health risk. If those reasons are still not enough to disuade you, consider
the mode of useage. In order to extract adequate energy from the engine
cooling system, the engine must be under load, not idling. They are a
wonderful idea, that simply does not work. Think electric tankless heaters,
if space is a concern.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!




Steve Lusardi October 11th 08 05:55 AM

installing a calorifier
 
If my previous post still has not convinced you otherwise, the correct way
to connect one is to intercept the return water line from the engine to the
heat exchanger and connect in series the transfer coil in the colorifier at
that point.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!




Rick Morel October 11th 08 11:42 AM

installing a calorifier
 
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 06:43:31 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Juan,
Terrible idea, they are useless. For those readers that do not know what a
calorifier is, he means a fresh water heat exchanger that uses engine
coolant to heat drinking water.

Their use unbalances your engine cooling system which causes the engine to
run too cool. If your engine runs too cool, condensated water inside the
motor doesn't get boiled off and mixes with the sulpher in your lube oil.
This forms sulferic acid, which corodes your oil and creates excessive
sludge. This is the very least damage you can expect. On the other side of
the system, they don't create enough hot water, they take up too much space
and the temperature of the output water varies wildly. There is also a
distinct possibility that a leak will occur, which will contaminate your
drinking water supply and may be undetected. This represents a very serious
health risk. If those reasons are still not enough to disuade you, consider
the mode of useage. In order to extract adequate energy from the engine
cooling system, the engine must be under load, not idling. They are a
wonderful idea, that simply does not work. Think electric tankless heaters,
if space is a concern.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!




Steve, you've got to be kidding. Right?

Just about every boat I've seen has a water heater with an engine
water heat exchanger built in to make hot water when away from the
dock. Ours, and several I've owned, work fine. The thermostat keeps
the coolant at pretty much a constant temperature, therefore keeping
the "hot water" at a fairly constant temperture. Okay, so hot water
made at idle is a bit less hot than under way.

I assume a calorifier is just a water heater with no other means of
heating the water?

Rick

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Steve Lusardi October 11th 08 03:16 PM

installing a calorifier
 
Rick,
No, I'm not kidding. I know many people use them, but that does not mitigate
the risks I stated. It is far more efficient and space saving to connect an
alternator to the same engine and drive a tankless heater, which not only
eliminates the stated risks, but also allows the location of the water
heater in any available space, electric power for other purposes and the
cost is either equal to or less than, the cost of the calorifier. Sometimes
a colorifier will also have a bung where an electric heater element can be
used when shore power is connected.

I bought one and never used it. Instead, I decided to use a conventional 50
gallon household water heater, as I have adequate AC and the space. In point
of fact that, calorifier is available cheap to those folks that I have not
convinced. It is new, all copper, insulated with a thin layer of
polyurethane foam and the size is somewhere around 50 liters as I recall. I
think there is also a bung for an element, but I'm not sure without digging
it out. I think I bought it in the eighties.
Steve

"Rick Morel" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 06:43:31 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Juan,
Terrible idea, they are useless. For those readers that do not know what a
calorifier is, he means a fresh water heat exchanger that uses engine
coolant to heat drinking water.

Their use unbalances your engine cooling system which causes the engine to
run too cool. If your engine runs too cool, condensated water inside the
motor doesn't get boiled off and mixes with the sulpher in your lube oil.
This forms sulferic acid, which corodes your oil and creates excessive
sludge. This is the very least damage you can expect. On the other side of
the system, they don't create enough hot water, they take up too much
space
and the temperature of the output water varies wildly. There is also a
distinct possibility that a leak will occur, which will contaminate your
drinking water supply and may be undetected. This represents a very
serious
health risk. If those reasons are still not enough to disuade you,
consider
the mode of useage. In order to extract adequate energy from the engine
cooling system, the engine must be under load, not idling. They are a
wonderful idea, that simply does not work. Think electric tankless
heaters,
if space is a concern.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!




Steve, you've got to be kidding. Right?

Just about every boat I've seen has a water heater with an engine
water heat exchanger built in to make hot water when away from the
dock. Ours, and several I've owned, work fine. The thermostat keeps
the coolant at pretty much a constant temperature, therefore keeping
the "hot water" at a fairly constant temperture. Okay, so hot water
made at idle is a bit less hot than under way.

I assume a calorifier is just a water heater with no other means of
heating the water?

Rick

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **




jim.isbell October 11th 08 03:23 PM

installing a calorifier
 
On Oct 11, 9:16 am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Rick,
No, I'm not kidding. I know many people use them, but that does not mitigate
the risks I stated. It is far more efficient and space saving to connect an
alternator to the same engine and drive a tankless heater, which not only
eliminates the stated risks, but also allows the location of the water
heater in any available space, electric power for other purposes and the
cost is either equal to or less than, the cost of the calorifier. Sometimes
a colorifier will also have a bung where an electric heater element can be
used when shore power is connected.


This is ridiculous. Water heaters do not hurt the engine for the
simple reason that the thermostat will keep the coolant at a constant
temperature. Doesnt mater where you put the heater, the thermostat
will keep the engine at the same temperature all the time.

[email protected] October 11th 08 05:31 PM

installing a calorifier
 
Juan:

See page 49 of your Iveco 8141 shop manual, which can be found he

http://www.sabb.no/eng/viewfile.aspx?id=101

Note the diagram indicates (2) 'Heater Water Outlet, and (6) Heater
Water Inlet. I believe this is where you'll connect the 'calorifier'
or 'domestic water heater'

Then see:

http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...eaterv0502.pdf

for the installation instructions for one company's product, a unit
that allows 120 - 240 volt shore power hot water as well as engine
coolant hot water.

Mike Worrall
Los Angeles


Juan Bassols October 11th 08 08:38 PM

installing a calorifier
 
Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan

Steve Lusardi wrote:

If my previous post still has not convinced you otherwise, the correct way
to connect one is to intercept the return water line from the engine to the
heat exchanger and connect in series the transfer coil in the colorifier at
that point.
Steve

"Juan Bassols" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a calorifier connected to the boat engine. Could
somebody give me advise how to do it and how to avoid mistakes? My
engine is a Iveco aifo 8141 and I would like to connect a small
calorifier, preferably a flat one to fix it near the engine. Thank you!


Juan Bassols October 11th 08 08:38 PM

installing a calorifier
 
Mike:

Thank you verry much for the adress wih the manual, I do not have much
documentation of my engine and this will be helpfull.

Juan
Barcelona (Spain)

wrote:

Juan:

See page 49 of your Iveco 8141 shop manual, which can be found he

http://www.sabb.no/eng/viewfile.aspx?id=101

Note the diagram indicates (2) 'Heater Water Outlet, and (6) Heater
Water Inlet. I believe this is where you'll connect the 'calorifier'
or 'domestic water heater'

Then see:

http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...eaterv0502.pdf

for the installation instructions for one company's product, a unit
that allows 120 - 240 volt shore power hot water as well as engine
coolant hot water.

Mike Worrall
Los Angeles


Rick Morel October 12th 08 02:20 AM

installing a calorifier
 
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:38:20 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan


Juan, standard procedure is to hook it in series. Break the fresh
water cooling return line from the heat exchanger, go through the
calorifier from the heat exchanger then to the return line. No
pressure drop involved, you're simply circulating the water as before.
In fact, it's a good thing because now you've added to the volume of
your fresh cooling water by the amount of the hoses and calorifier.

On our sailing yacht, which is home, 20 minutes of running gives us 6
gal of 180 deg F shower water. Our water heater is well insulated so
we have hot water for about 10 hours or so after shutting the engine
down.

Rick

** Posted from
http://www.teranews.com **


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