I've a Bruxton 70P for my Chatham 16 which has a place to mount and
install. Since the compass came with out instructions what is the
proper procedure for mounting correctly? Also if I drill a tiny hole
for the small screws supplied do I also need some kind of sealer?

Gene Cosloy

I would think yes, but not because of leaks. I would put something on them
to keep them tight. I hate having to go around tightening everything on my
toys. On my cars, boats, bikes etc I always use lock-tight or some epoxy (if
it is never to come apart again). You don't say what kind of screws came
with it. My preference would be to use small bolts with the nut having the
nylon insert that keeps it from backing off. This could then be covered in
epoxy or RTV to keep it from snagging anything that would be pulled past it.

Just my 2cents

--

"Gene Cosloy" wrote in message
om...
I've a Bruxton 70P for my Chatham 16 which has a place to mount and
install. Since the compass came with out instructions what is the
proper procedure for mounting correctly? Also if I drill a tiny hole
for the small screws supplied do I also need some kind of sealer?

Gene Cosloy

Hi Gene,

I just got my compass, the same , 70P for my Romany 16. I went out and got
4 # 4 machine screws 3/4" for the nut, with #4 washers and a nylon nut also
a #4. I also got the # 4 machine screw 1/2" to minimize the steel to the
compass if the 3/4" are too long. The screws that came with the compass are
#4 1/2". I had to search around town for the #4 hardware but was very lucky
to find them. I'll use a marine glue for the drill holes. I think the
drill holes will be 7/64. I would not go up to a #6 hardware. As crazy as
it may seem; its more steel to the compass. I was thinking of going without
the washers to keep steel away form the compass.

On the Romany 16, I drilled holes to move the rope cleat aft and no drips
with marine glue.

Good luck.

Steve
Wilmington, NC

Gene Cosloy wrote:

I've a Bruxton 70P for my Chatham 16 which has a place to mount and
install. Since the compass came with out instructions what is the
proper procedure for mounting correctly? Also if I drill a tiny hole
for the small screws supplied do I also need some kind of sealer?

I've installed them on several boats. All you need to do is drill small
holes and the stock screws work perfectly. There is no stress on the
compass, so machine screws and nuts are unnecessary overkill and the
screws have no tendency to loosen. If your boat is fiberglass, I'd use a
small dab of sealer under each screw when you install them. If the boat
is plastic, it should seal itself, especially if you drill undersize
holes that fit the screws tightly.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 23:14:19 -0400, "Steven Murch"
wrote:

I just got my compass, the same , 70P for my Romany 16. I went out and got
4 # 4 machine screws 3/4" for the nut, with #4 washers and a nylon nut also
a #4. I also got the # 4 machine screw 1/2" to minimize the steel to the
compass if the 3/4" are too long. The screws that came with the compass are
#4 1/2". I had to search around town for the #4 hardware but was very lucky
to find them. I'll use a marine glue for the drill holes. I think the
drill holes will be 7/64. I would not go up to a #6 hardware. As crazy as
it may seem; its more steel to the compass. I was thinking of going without
the washers to keep steel away form the compass.

Why not go with marine grade bronze hardware, if steel near the
compass is such a concern?

That would seem to make more sense than skimping.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

On 28-Aug-2004, "Steven Murch" wrote:

As crazy as
it may seem; its more steel to the compass. I was thinking of going without
the washers to keep steel away form the compass.

If you're that concerned, get plastic bolts and nuts. There isn't going to
be a lot of stress on the compass, so high strength isn't an issue. You
could also use a bit of silicone caulk to hold the compass in if you are
worried about keeping the compass in. The caulk will hold it but can be
removed in the future.

Mike

Steven Murch ) wrote:
: Hi Gene,

: I just got my compass, the same , 70P for my Romany 16. I went out and got
: 4 # 4 machine screws 3/4" for the nut, with #4 washers and a nylon nut also
: a #4. I also got the # 4 machine screw 1/2" to minimize the steel to the
: compass if the 3/4" are too long. The screws that came with the compass are
: #4 1/2". I had to search around town for the #4 hardware but was very lucky
: to find them. I'll use a marine glue for the drill holes. I think the
: drill holes will be 7/64. I would not go up to a #6 hardware. As crazy as
: it may seem; its more steel to the compass. I was thinking of going without
: the washers to keep steel away form the compass.

It's not difficult to find machine screws in 316 stainless, which is
pretty close to non-magnetic (but not perfect; anybody had a problem
with stainless screws upsetting a compass?).

-Ken

: On the Romany 16, I drilled holes to move the rope cleat aft and no drips
: with marine glue.

: Good luck.

: Steve
: Wilmington, NC

Ken Ferschweiler wrote:
Steven Murch ) wrote:
: Hi Gene,

: I just got my compass, the same , 70P for my Romany 16. I went out and got
: 4 # 4 machine screws 3/4" for the nut, with #4 washers and a nylon nut also
: a #4. I also got the # 4 machine screw 1/2" to minimize the steel to the
: compass if the 3/4" are too long. The screws that came with the compass are
: #4 1/2". I had to search around town for the #4 hardware but was very lucky
: to find them. I'll use a marine glue for the drill holes. I think the
: drill holes will be 7/64. I would not go up to a #6 hardware. As crazy as
: it may seem; its more steel to the compass. I was thinking of going without
: the washers to keep steel away form the compass.

It's not difficult to find machine screws in 316 stainless, which is
pretty close to non-magnetic (but not perfect; anybody had a problem
with stainless screws upsetting a compass?).

Why not just use the screws that comes with the compass and be done with
it? They work absolutely fine, which is why they're included. You guys
have come up with a bunch of "solutions in search of a problem". There's
no need to re-engineer this.

the reason I don't use the screws that come with the 70-P is they are sheet
metal screws and are very sharp. I have seen shreaded drybags from said
screws.

Bronze is good as well as marine grade stainless with neoprene washers and
nylocks. No problem with deviation. I tested it a bunch.

steve
Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe N 45º 36.285'
250 NE Tomahawk Isle Dr. W 122º 39.841'
Portland, OR 97217 Web: www.aldercreek.com
Phone: 503.285.0464 Email:

Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe wrote:

the reason I don't use the screws that come with the 70-P is they are sheet
metal screws and are very sharp. I have seen shreaded drybags from said
screws.

It takes all of a minute to reach up with a pair of wire cutters and nip
the ends off and/or coat them with a dab of sealer. You're going to have
to do that with any screws that are similar in length, as they'll all
have the same tendency to shred gear bags, assuming that they do at all.
Since there's no way to tell how thick the material in the screw
locations is, you're going to have to use over-length screws to start
with. In several of the boats I've installed them in, the screws were
either completely embedded in the deck or they were situated in such a
high, protected recess that it was unlikely that any gear would be able
to get close to them.