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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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Wood laminate over fiberglass
Hi,
I recently bought a 1965 Korsar 161/2' skiff (US # 6) It's in good shape structurally but kinda ugly. I plan on refinishing the hull and deck at the end of the summer. I saw a Flying Dutchman with a glass hull and a mahogony laminate over the glass on the deck. I really liked the way it looked. Does anybody have any experience at laying wood laminate over glass ? Thanks, Greg |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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Wood laminate over fiberglass
On Mon, 5 May 2008 11:15:59 -0700 (PDT), Greg
wrote: Hi, I recently bought a 1965 Korsar 161/2' skiff (US # 6) It's in good shape structurally but kinda ugly. I plan on refinishing the hull and deck at the end of the summer. I saw a Flying Dutchman with a glass hull and a mahogony laminate over the glass on the deck. I really liked the way it looked. Does anybody have any experience at laying wood laminate over glass ? Thanks, Greg When you say "wood laminate" exactly what do you mean? But in any event putting an ornamental wood surface on a fiberglass structure is a fairly simple project. You need to get the surface you are applying the overlay onto sanded down to a good solid surface, no paint, loose or cracked gelcoat (in fact it would technically be best to get down to the fiberglass) and faired as perfectly as possible. As in painting, "what you see now is what you will see when the job is done". Depending on the thickness of your overlay you can use either epoxy or one of the poly-whatever adhesives (Sikaflex, 5200, etc.). The main problem is that once you apply the overlay you must hold it firmly in place while the attaching substance hardens. This could range from vacuum bagging to sand bags to mechanical clamps. The problems usually arise in the clamping process in my experience as the rest of the process is quite straight forward. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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Wood laminate over fiberglass
"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message ... On Mon, 5 May 2008 11:15:59 -0700 (PDT), Greg wrote: Hi, I recently bought a 1965 Korsar 161/2' skiff (US # 6) It's in good shape structurally but kinda ugly. I plan on refinishing the hull and deck at the end of the summer. I saw a Flying Dutchman with a glass hull and a mahogony laminate over the glass on the deck. I really liked the way it looked. Does anybody have any experience at laying wood laminate over glass ? Thanks, Greg When you say "wood laminate" exactly what do you mean? But in any event putting an ornamental wood surface on a fiberglass structure is a fairly simple project. You need to get the surface you are applying the overlay onto sanded down to a good solid surface, no paint, loose or cracked gelcoat (in fact it would technically be best to get down to the fiberglass) and faired as perfectly as possible. As in painting, "what you see now is what you will see when the job is done". Depending on the thickness of your overlay you can use either epoxy or one of the poly-whatever adhesives (Sikaflex, 5200, etc.). The main problem is that once you apply the overlay you must hold it firmly in place while the attaching substance hardens. This could range from vacuum bagging to sand bags to mechanical clamps. The problems usually arise in the clamping process in my experience as the rest of the process is quite straight forward. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) Bruce, once overlay (teak) as been applied and a crack shows up in one of the piece of wood, what is the best way to fix it so it does not aggravates later. I my case I thinking of sanding it and apply three coast of Cetol over it. What to you think? Denis of Rothesay |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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Wood laminate over fiberglass
On Tue, 6 May 2008 07:33:02 -0300, wrote:
"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 5 May 2008 11:15:59 -0700 (PDT), Greg wrote: Hi, I recently bought a 1965 Korsar 161/2' skiff (US # 6) It's in good shape structurally but kinda ugly. I plan on refinishing the hull and deck at the end of the summer. I saw a Flying Dutchman with a glass hull and a mahogony laminate over the glass on the deck. I really liked the way it looked. Does anybody have any experience at laying wood laminate over glass ? Thanks, Greg When you say "wood laminate" exactly what do you mean? But in any event putting an ornamental wood surface on a fiberglass structure is a fairly simple project. You need to get the surface you are applying the overlay onto sanded down to a good solid surface, no paint, loose or cracked gelcoat (in fact it would technically be best to get down to the fiberglass) and faired as perfectly as possible. As in painting, "what you see now is what you will see when the job is done". Depending on the thickness of your overlay you can use either epoxy or one of the poly-whatever adhesives (Sikaflex, 5200, etc.). The main problem is that once you apply the overlay you must hold it firmly in place while the attaching substance hardens. This could range from vacuum bagging to sand bags to mechanical clamps. The problems usually arise in the clamping process in my experience as the rest of the process is quite straight forward. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) Bruce, once overlay (teak) as been applied and a crack shows up in one of the piece of wood, what is the best way to fix it so it does not aggravates later. I my case I thinking of sanding it and apply three coast of Cetol over it. What to you think? Denis of Rothesay It depends on how the teak was applied. Is it screwed down or actually glued to the deck? How big is the damage? Is the damage right out in the middle of the deck, or hidden away in a corner? Most modern decks are only about 1/4 - 3/8 inch thick and the planks are sawn from a straight piece of timber, planned to thickness and then forced into place resulting in some pretty large stress being placed on the "planks" as they are bent sideways (edge set) to follow the curve of the deck. It is quite possible for a plank to split under that kind of torture. If it were my deck, and depending on how badly cracked and the location of the crack I would consider routing out the crack, right down to the deck and caulking the resulting groove. This should, hopefully, relieve the stress on the plank that caused the crack and if the routed groove is laid out artistically it might even look like part of the original installation. Or, it might be possible to replace a short section of one plank where the crack occurred. You could also attempt to inject waterproof glue into the crack and hope it stopped any further growth of the crack although this is probably a last resort sort of thing. What I would not do is to put any oil, Cetol, etc., on it until I had decided whether a mechanical repair is going to be worth while as teak is difficult enough to glue without added oil. Of course, if it is just one little place in a corner somewhere then Cetol it and nobody will probably ever notice. So called "teak decks" are hard to discuss as they do vary a lot. I have a small power boat that had teak decks that were nearly an inch thick and a structural part of the boat. Most are just 1/4" strips screwed down on the deck (that will always give problems at some date due to leaks into the core) and newer designs seem to be just strips glued to the deck. The latter two types being cosmetic only. Basically you want to stop the crack, waterproof it and make it pretty. Sorry if I seem vague but it is difficult to diagnose without seeing the patient :-) Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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Wood laminate over fiberglass
I think I would use epoxy and 1/24" thick veneer. Any thicker and you would
have trouble getting it to conform to the hull. Any thinner and the epoxy might squeeze through screwing up the finish. As Bruce said clamping is the challenge. Vacuum bagging would be the easiest route but you would have to do the whole hull in one bagging. The cured squeeze out would make it impossible to fit the next strip if you try to do it piece at a time. Tight seams are the key to a good looking veneer. Also, as Bruce said the hull needs to be near perfect. The vacuum bag will telegraph any defect right through the veneer and you don't have much material to work with once the veneer is on. I think you could dry fit everything and tape it down really well. It would take a lot of pretty strong tape to hold everything in place until the bag can be pulled tight which presents another problem. The vacuum will force the tape adhesive into the pores so once cured you will have to scrub it down with Goofoff or some other adhesive solvent before sanding. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Greg" wrote in message ... Hi, I recently bought a 1965 Korsar 161/2' skiff (US # 6) It's in good shape structurally but kinda ugly. I plan on refinishing the hull and deck at the end of the summer. I saw a Flying Dutchman with a glass hull and a mahogony laminate over the glass on the deck. I really liked the way it looked. Does anybody have any experience at laying wood laminate over glass ? Thanks, Greg |
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