Clearly something is wrong with your mold setup. The boat should be nearly
straight from station 2 to station 10. It' try shimming stations 4 and 8
upwards 1/16" and trimming station 6 by about 3/8". To shim, plane short
lengths of strip down as thin as you can, glue it to the mold, then trim
with a block plane. To reduce station 6, If you can remove it from the
setup, it'd be easiest to trim its bottom then re-install it. If it can't
be removed, trimmig it is a lot more work. Before continuing with
planking, take a 10' strip and test the rest of the un-planked region for
fairness. Shim and trim the molds until a strip lies fair on all the molds,
just touching alll of them.

On a Wee Lassie II, there is no keel. The strips butt at the centerline.
It's not straight across. At the centerline, the bottom is slightly veed
amidshipa and pretty sharp near the ends. After you've planked up to the end
of the stem, continue from there to complete planking all of one side of the
boat, letting the strips run wild past the centerline. Then, cut all the
strips off at the centerline at once. Use a sharp chisel followed by a
rabbet plane. Fitting the strips of the remaining side requires cutting a
bevel onto the end of each. Takes many hours with a block plane.

There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from WoodenBoat
http://www.woodenboatstore.com/prodi...number=325-104. Another
excellent book on the subject is Canoecrft, by Ted Moores. Also from WB
http://www.woodenboatstore.com/prodi...number=300-030

"jim.isbell" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 3, 8:56 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
Another question, is the bottom supposed to have a "W" shape to it?

If I use the dimensions given in the book for the Wee Lassie 2 it
produces a "w" curve on the bottom as the #4 "mold" is taller than the
#3 "mold". The #4 and #2 "molds" are the same height but the #3 is
1/16th inch shorter making a dip (or rise if the boat is right side
up) on both sides of the center which is higher. Is this a misprint?
I can correct it now as I have not yet put the keel strip on. but
after the keel strip is on the bottom curve will be set.

I just re read what I last wrote and it is not clear what I am talking
about. Below is a list of the "mold" heights so you can see what I am
talking about.

Station #1 15 7/8" Mold #6
Station #2 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #3 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #4 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #5 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #6 16 7/8" Mold #1
Station #7 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #8 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #9 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #10 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #11 15 7/8" Mold #6

As you can see there is a dip at station #4 and at station #8. This
does not seem logical. Am I wrong?

On Apr 3, 10:34 am, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from

I have that book and the dimentions I posted are FROM THE BOOK (third
printing 2000). So apparently there is an error in the book.

I fixed it though by some very easy manipulating. Luckily mold #1
(station #6) was already built up by the PO and I only had to remove
some laminations to bring the profile down to a straight line. The
two #3 molds were easily shaved sown.

Its looking good now and within the week the planking should be done.

On Apr 4, 7:01 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
On Apr 3, 10:34 am, "Jim Conlin" wrote:

There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from

I have that book and the dimentions I posted are FROM THE BOOK (third
printing 2000). So apparently there is an error in the book.

I fixed it though by some very easy manipulating. Luckily mold #1
(station #6) was already built up by the PO and I only had to remove
some laminations to bring the profile down to a straight line. The
two #3 molds were easily shaved sown.

Its looking good now and within the week the planking should be done.

so Call Mac and ask him your self: he a good guy and unless he died
in the last three years he returns calls and letters: Henry (Mac)
McCarthy

1705 Andera Place
Sarasota, Fl 34235
Phone813) 953-7660

On Apr 4, 7:01 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
On Apr 3, 10:34 am, "Jim Conlin" wrote:

There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from

I have that book and the dimentions I posted are FROM THE BOOK (third
printing 2000). So apparently there is an error in the book.

I fixed it though by some very easy manipulating. Luckily mold #1
(station #6) was already built up by the PO and I only had to remove
some laminations to bring the profile down to a straight line. The
two #3 molds were easily shaved sown.

Its looking good now and within the week the planking should be done.

sorry to repost but here is Mac's web page: http://www.feathercanoes.com/index.html