It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the outside be what it wants to be.
My Wee Lassie II is here

"jim.isbell" wrote in message ups.com...
I have been hand picking the strips for thickness so that the most
grossly uneven strips will be on the bottom and as suggested I am also
making sure as I glue them to have the strips even on the outside
surface to make fairing easier.

Is there a place to post pictures on this forum? OR if I attach them
will they come thru?

On Apr 1, 8:51 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the outside be what it wants to be.
My Wee Lassie II is here

Thats a good thought. So far I have glued in only two thick strips
and they are on the sides before the chine curve so hopefully I can
sand them easier. I will make the next thick one stick out instead of
in. You say "My Wee Lassie II is here", where is "here" Was there
supposed to be a URL there? It didn't come thru.

Here http://conlin-boats.com/wl2_02.jpg

"jim.isbell" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 1, 8:51 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend
planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the
outside be what it wants to be.
My Wee Lassie II is here

Thats a good thought. So far I have glued in only two thick strips
and they are on the sides before the chine curve so hopefully I can
sand them easier. I will make the next thick one stick out instead of
in. You say "My Wee Lassie II is here", where is "here" Was there
supposed to be a URL there? It didn't come thru.

I am turning the corner at the chine now and heading toward the keel.
One thing not shown in the book but only mentioned, is the keel
strip. In one picture it looks to be about 2" wide, but it is never
described anywhere that I can find. Does anyone know what the details
are and when it is supposed to be laid? I will probably have to lay
it in tomorrow before I do any more side strips.

Another question, is the bottom supposed to have a "W" shape to it?

If I use the dimensions given in the book for the Wee Lassie 2 it
produces a "w" curve on the bottom as the #4 "mold" is taller than the
#3 "mold". The #4 and #2 "molds" are the same height but the #3 is
1/16th inch shorter making a dip (or rise if the boat is right side
up) on both sides of the center which is higher. Is this a misprint?
I can correct it now as I have not yet put the keel strip on. but
after the keel strip is on the bottom curve will be set.

On Apr 3, 8:56 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
Another question, is the bottom supposed to have a "W" shape to it?

If I use the dimensions given in the book for the Wee Lassie 2 it
produces a "w" curve on the bottom as the #4 "mold" is taller than the
#3 "mold". The #4 and #2 "molds" are the same height but the #3 is
1/16th inch shorter making a dip (or rise if the boat is right side
up) on both sides of the center which is higher. Is this a misprint?
I can correct it now as I have not yet put the keel strip on. but
after the keel strip is on the bottom curve will be set.

I just re read what I last wrote and it is not clear what I am talking
about. Below is a list of the "mold" heights so you can see what I am
talking about.

Station #1 15 7/8" Mold #6
Station #2 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #3 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #4 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #5 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #6 16 7/8" Mold #1
Station #7 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #8 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #9 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #10 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #11 15 7/8" Mold #6

As you can see there is a dip at station #4 and at station #8. This
does not seem logical. Am I wrong?

Clearly something is wrong with your mold setup. The boat should be nearly
straight from station 2 to station 10. It' try shimming stations 4 and 8
upwards 1/16" and trimming station 6 by about 3/8". To shim, plane short
lengths of strip down as thin as you can, glue it to the mold, then trim
with a block plane. To reduce station 6, If you can remove it from the
setup, it'd be easiest to trim its bottom then re-install it. If it can't
be removed, trimmig it is a lot more work. Before continuing with
planking, take a 10' strip and test the rest of the un-planked region for
fairness. Shim and trim the molds until a strip lies fair on all the molds,
just touching alll of them.

On a Wee Lassie II, there is no keel. The strips butt at the centerline.
It's not straight across. At the centerline, the bottom is slightly veed
amidshipa and pretty sharp near the ends. After you've planked up to the end
of the stem, continue from there to complete planking all of one side of the
boat, letting the strips run wild past the centerline. Then, cut all the
strips off at the centerline at once. Use a sharp chisel followed by a
rabbet plane. Fitting the strips of the remaining side requires cutting a
bevel onto the end of each. Takes many hours with a block plane.

There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from WoodenBoat
http://www.woodenboatstore.com/prodi...number=325-104. Another
excellent book on the subject is Canoecrft, by Ted Moores. Also from WB
http://www.woodenboatstore.com/prodi...number=300-030

"jim.isbell" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 3, 8:56 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
Another question, is the bottom supposed to have a "W" shape to it?

If I use the dimensions given in the book for the Wee Lassie 2 it
produces a "w" curve on the bottom as the #4 "mold" is taller than the
#3 "mold". The #4 and #2 "molds" are the same height but the #3 is
1/16th inch shorter making a dip (or rise if the boat is right side
up) on both sides of the center which is higher. Is this a misprint?
I can correct it now as I have not yet put the keel strip on. but
after the keel strip is on the bottom curve will be set.

I just re read what I last wrote and it is not clear what I am talking
about. Below is a list of the "mold" heights so you can see what I am
talking about.

Station #1 15 7/8" Mold #6
Station #2 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #3 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #4 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #5 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #6 16 7/8" Mold #1
Station #7 16 1/2" Mold #2
Station #8 16 7/16" Mold #3 ---------------
Station #9 16 1/2" Mold #4
Station #10 16 3/8" Mold #5
Station #11 15 7/8" Mold #6

As you can see there is a dip at station #4 and at station #8. This
does not seem logical. Am I wrong?

Go to www.duckworksmagazine.com , click on NEW, and look at todays'
article on building a "stripper" Wee Lassie.

On Apr 3, 10:34 am, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from

I have that book and the dimentions I posted are FROM THE BOOK (third
printing 2000). So apparently there is an error in the book.

I fixed it though by some very easy manipulating. Luckily mold #1
(station #6) was already built up by the PO and I only had to remove
some laminations to bring the profile down to a straight line. The
two #3 molds were easily shaved sown.

Its looking good now and within the week the planking should be done.

On Apr 4, 7:01 am, "jim.isbell" wrote:
On Apr 3, 10:34 am, "Jim Conlin" wrote:

There are some other tricks to planking this particular boat, so... Get a
copy of the designer's book Featherweight Boatbuilding: A Woodenboat Book
ISBN 0-937822-39-6 . It's available from

I have that book and the dimentions I posted are FROM THE BOOK (third
printing 2000). So apparently there is an error in the book.

I fixed it though by some very easy manipulating. Luckily mold #1
(station #6) was already built up by the PO and I only had to remove
some laminations to bring the profile down to a straight line. The
two #3 molds were easily shaved sown.

Its looking good now and within the week the planking should be done.

so Call Mac and ask him your self: he a good guy and unless he died
in the last three years he returns calls and letters: Henry (Mac)
McCarthy

1705 Andera Place
Sarasota, Fl 34235
Phone813) 953-7660