The ceiling of my boat is textured gelcoat. As I read the Awlgrip
instructions they seem to insist on preparation which would destroy
the texture. Can I not simply wash and deway according to their
instructions, followed by a sound scuffing with an abrasive pad,
followed by a wipe down, followed by either brush or roller
application?

All suggestions appreciated.

Joe

Awlgrip seems an odd choice of for this application, but maybe you've
got a can or two left over from a "hullsides" project...?

I've always considered 2 part polyurethanes (like Awlgrip) to be part
of a 'system' that includes an epoxy based primer that all 2 part LPU
manufacturers provide. This primer acts as a tie coat between the
gelcoat and the LPU. I'm fairly confident that without this primer,
you'll not be happy with the results.

For interior applications, I'd think that a one-part polyurethane,
like Interlux Brightside or Pettit Easypoxy would be the way to go.

In this case, I think your "dewax and scuff" proposal would be fine.

MW
Los Angeles

"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
The ceiling of my boat is textured gelcoat. As I read the Awlgrip
instructions they seem to insist on preparation which would destroy
the texture. Can I not simply wash and deway according to their
instructions, followed by a sound scuffing with an abrasive pad,
followed by a wipe down, followed by either brush or roller
application?

All suggestions appreciated.

Joe

There are 3 ways paint sticks to a substrate- Mechanically (sanded surface),
chemically and not at all. In the third case, paint simply forms a tough
self supporting film over a substrate to which it cannot adhere to. Think
of the ABS bumper on your car. Good quality paints do this better than
cheap paints because they are tougher. I think you'll be fine with what
you're intending to do.

Arnold

Joe Bleau wrote:

The ceiling of my boat is textured gelcoat. As I read the Awlgrip
instructions they seem to insist on preparation which would destroy
the texture. Can I not simply wash and deway according to their
instructions, followed by a sound scuffing with an abrasive pad,
followed by a wipe down, followed by either brush or roller
application?

All suggestions appreciated.

Joe

Joe,

For years now we've used a no-sand primer as the tie-coat for painting non-skid
and there is no reason it wouldn't work just as well on an overhead.

It works excellently and we've never had a failure. Our primer of choice is
Pettit 6999 Bottom Prep. The Interlux version also works well.

The primer is very thin and will not fill the texture. While to some it might
seem overkill to use a 2 part LPU as the top coat it is actually a good choice.
LPU is also a thin paint and will not fill the texture like most 1 part
enamels (Brightside/Easypoxy etc.) will.

If you use the Pettit, the initial coat of top coat will tend to a grey color
but that will disappear with a second coat.

Brian C

LPU paints require much more labor than conventional paints in prep and
application, but offer very high gloss and excellent weathering
characteristics which you may not want or need in boat interiors. I'd use
an alkyd semi-gloss from the corner paint store. Prep with a scotchbrite
and TSP.

"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
The ceiling of my boat is textured gelcoat. As I read the Awlgrip
instructions they seem to insist on preparation which would destroy
the texture. Can I not simply wash and deway according to their
instructions, followed by a sound scuffing with an abrasive pad,
followed by a wipe down, followed by either brush or roller
application?

All suggestions appreciated.

Joe

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:46:49 -0800, Brian Cleverly
wrote:

For years now we've used a no-sand primer as the tie-coat for painting non-skid
and there is no reason it wouldn't work just as well on an overhead.

It works excellently and we've never had a failure. Our primer of choice is
Pettit 6999 Bottom Prep. The Interlux version also works well.

The primer is very thin and will not fill the texture. While to some it might
seem overkill to use a 2 part LPU as the top coat it is actually a good choice.
LPU is also a thin paint and will not fill the texture like most 1 part
enamels (Brightside/Easypoxy etc.) will.

If you use the Pettit, the initial coat of top coat will tend to a grey color
but that will disappear with a second coat.

Brian C

Brian--

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply to my inquiry on
rec.boatbuilding. Your reply certainly made the most sense When I
decided to use Awlgrip my thoughts were on its thinness preventing
texture filling as well as future cleaning since the Awlgrip surface I
hope to end up with should wipe down fairly easily. My question to
you is if the Pettit Bottom Prep 6999 and the Interlux equivalent will
actually work as a base primer for Awlgrip and, if so, how long will
I have to wait before appplying the Awlgrip? I am sure Awlgrip would
tell us to use only their generic primer but we know how they like to
sell their own products.

While we are on the subject of primers I wonder if you have ever tried
CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). It is an epoxy with a
proprietary solvent which thins it out to almost water-like
consistency. I have been using it to prime plywood before applying
West System 105 resin and glass and it works great for that purpose. I
have also used it on raw wood as a base primer for paint. Other than
a somewhat slow cure time it seems perfect as its viscosity allows it
to penetrate deeply into the wood. Moreover, almost any finish
adheres to it. I have done adhesion tests using it and it adheres like
nothing else. I wonder if it too could also be used as a primer for
Awlgrip.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe Bleau wrote:

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:46:49 -0800, Brian Cleverly
wrote:


For years now we've used a no-sand primer as the tie-coat for painting non-skid
and there is no reason it wouldn't work just as well on an overhead.

It works excellently and we've never had a failure. Our primer of choice is
Pettit 6999 Bottom Prep. The Interlux version also works well.

The primer is very thin and will not fill the texture. While to some it might
seem overkill to use a 2 part LPU as the top coat it is actually a good choice.
LPU is also a thin paint and will not fill the texture like most 1 part
enamels (Brightside/Easypoxy etc.) will.

If you use the Pettit, the initial coat of top coat will tend to a grey color
but that will disappear with a second coat.

Brian C


Brian--


Joe,

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply to my inquiry on
rec.boatbuilding. Your reply certainly made the most sense When I
decided to use Awlgrip my thoughts were on its thinness preventing
texture filling as well as future cleaning since the Awlgrip surface I
hope to end up with should wipe down fairly easily.

Are you married to using Awlgrip ? If you aren't I'd suggest you look at using
Interlux "Perfection" instead... Lower cost; easier application; comparable
performance.

My question to
you is if the Pettit Bottom Prep 6999 and the Interlux equivalent will
actually work as a base primer for Awlgrip and, if so, how long will
I have to wait before appplying the Awlgrip?

A very short time... Depends on ambient temp but can be as soon as 2 hours.
Basically you overcoat before it really dries. Clear directions are on the can.

I am sure Awlgrip would
tell us to use only their generic primer but we know how they like to
sell their own products.


Certainly ! Like their "Alumiprep" is available (under another brand) at any
auto paint supply store for less than 50% of the cost.

While we are on the subject of primers I wonder if you have ever tried
CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer).

Yes, we've tried it but use the System Three "Clear Coat" in preference. The
clear coat has more solids and lasts a whole lot longer (we use it as prep under
varnish).

I wonder if it too could also be used as a primer for
Awlgrip.


Not unless you can sand it...

You may like to take a look at some of the tips at:

www.anzam.com/howto_index_001.htm

Brian C (to reply direct add an ell after the address name cee)


Thanks,

Joe