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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
My 1977 Morgan OI has an approximately 130 gal. aluminum tank built
behind a bulkhead on the port side passageway from the main saloon to the aft cabin. When I could not get pressure I assumed the tank had a leak and tore out the bulkhead exposing the outside of the tank (the other side of the tank is curved and is seated in sprayed foam against the hull). Outwardly the tank appears like new but I realize that it could be completely rotted within. Problem is I find no dampness anywhere around the tank and am now beginning to suspect that the tank is sound. Does anyone in this group know of a way of testing the tank, i.e., using compressed air to pressurize the tank and leaving a gauge on it for 24 hours or so to determine if there really is a leak. Any ideas on testing this tank without removing it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Joe Bleau wrote:
My 1977 Morgan OI has an approximately 130 gal. aluminum tank built behind a bulkhead on the port side passageway from the main saloon to the aft cabin. When I could not get pressure I assumed the tank had a leak and tore out the bulkhead exposing the outside of the tank (the other side of the tank is curved and is seated in sprayed foam against the hull). Outwardly the tank appears like new but I realize that it could be completely rotted within. Problem is I find no dampness anywhere around the tank and am now beginning to suspect that the tank is sound. Does anyone in this group know of a way of testing the tank, i.e., using compressed air to pressurize the tank and leaving a gauge on it for 24 hours or so to determine if there really is a leak. Any ideas on testing this tank without removing it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe Seal up all the outlets except one. Place a rubber ballon on that one and pressurize GENTLY until the balloon inflates. Leave it alone for a few days and observe the baloon. Be advised that atmospheric pressure changes will show as a change in the size of the balloon, so a barometer nearby would be helpful. But even without that, the balloon should not likely deflate totally - unless there is an air leak. Will that help? Richard Spirit http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavel...rit.htm#spirit |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Seal up all the outlets except one. Be sure to plug the vent too. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Joe Bleau inscribed in red ink for all to know:
My 1977 Morgan OI has an approximately 130 gal. aluminum tank built behind a bulkhead on the port side passageway from the main saloon to the aft cabin. When I could not get pressure I assumed the tank had a leak and tore out the bulkhead exposing the outside of the tank (the other side of the tank is curved and is seated in sprayed foam against the hull). Outwardly the tank appears like new but I realize that it could be completely rotted within. Problem is I find no dampness anywhere around the tank and am now beginning to suspect that the tank is sound. Does anyone in this group know of a way of testing the tank, i.e., using compressed air to pressurize the tank and leaving a gauge on it for 24 hours or so to determine if there really is a leak. Any ideas on testing this tank without removing it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe What does "I could not get pressure" mean? Making the assumption that this means that you could not pressurize your faucets, I assume that you checked out your fresh water pressure pump and found it to be in good condition. And that you checked out the line from the tank to the pump and ascertained that it was not leaking air into the pump. And that there is no leak downstream of the pump which is simply dumping water into the bilge as fast as you can put it into the system with the pump. Right? Pressurizing with compressed air would be very dangerous. With as little as 10 psi, it could explode. Another poster suggested only pressurizing enough to inflate a balloon - this would be safe, but it might be too sensitive - you will have made a barometer! Can you just fill up the tank to the top, and then check it a few days later (without using any water!) and see if the level has changed? bob s/v Eolian Seattle |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
In my many years of building and sailing boats this is one of the most perplexing problems I have ever encountered. 1. I have shut off the water at the tank itself. There is a shut off valve on a 3/4" pipe only 2 inches from the tank itself. Thus I am pretty certain the problem is not downstream from the tank. 2. The Morgan OI has another, smaller tank, in the engine room. I have also cut off the water at that tank. 3. In the engine room, just below the engine, the hull configuration creates a sump where one of my bilge pumps is located. After I had all tanks turned off I noted that my bilge pump kept cycling on and off. Tried to find the source of this anomaly. Could not see a thing. Got a 10"x10" acrylic mirror. Slid the mirror down into that area and observed a steady stream of water coming out of the open end of a 1" PVC pipe which had been glassed onto the bulkhead just below the engine. Since all tanks were shut off and since no more water would come out of the faucets I knew that it could not be a leak in the plumbing system, not only because the tanks were shut off but because the steady stream continued long after time had elapsed for all the pipes to drain. Let it run for an hour and a half. I then plugged the pipe, assuming that the 1" pipe might be a drain pipe leading from the port water tank (sort of like the drain pans used on domestic hot-water heaters). I reasoned that if that were indeed the source then, with the pipe plugged, it would back upl and the water would then begin to leak from around the bottom of the tank. Left it overnight. Still no dampness anywhere. What, in the name of the Good Lord, could be the source of that steady stream of water. What a mystery. In the absence of a genius in this group telling me where it is coming from I am about ready to attirbute it to some yet unknown Water God. Another curious thing is what in the world was the purpose of that pipe which was clearly installed when the boat was built. Maybe I will try to track down Charlie Morgan and ask him. Fat chance he will remember after these many years and all the different boats he built. I think I will now try Salnick's suggestion of filling the tank to the brim and measuring it daily. I simply do not know what else to do short of going ahead and removing what I can't help but believe is a sound tank. Thanks to each of you who was generous enough to reply. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:46:50 -0800, RW Salnick wrote: What does "I could not get pressure" mean? Making the assumption that this means that you could not pressurize your faucets, I assume that you checked out your fresh water pressure pump and found it to be in good condition. And that you checked out the line from the tank to the pump and ascertained that it was not leaking air into the pump. And that there is no leak downstream of the pump which is simply dumping water into the bilge as fast as you can put it into the system with the pump. Right? Pressurizing with compressed air would be very dangerous. With as little as 10 psi, it could explode. Another poster suggested only pressurizing enough to inflate a balloon - this would be safe, but it might be too sensitive - you will have made a barometer! Can you just fill up the tank to the top, and then check it a few days later (without using any water!) and see if the level has changed? bob s/v Eolian Seattle |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Is the 1" pvc pipe part of the vent/overlow for the tank? Many boats
have their vents inboard. I have a siphon start where the end of the vent line is below the top of the tank, and the fill on the tank is above the vent location (tank not level, boat heeled, boat not trimmed, etc). If this is the cause, the siphon should only start when the tank is filled, and should stop when the water level drops below the vent location on the tank... bob Joe Bleau inscribed: In my many years of building and sailing boats this is one of the most perplexing problems I have ever encountered. 1. I have shut off the water at the tank itself. There is a shut off valve on a 3/4" pipe only 2 inches from the tank itself. Thus I am pretty certain the problem is not downstream from the tank. 2. The Morgan OI has another, smaller tank, in the engine room. I have also cut off the water at that tank. 3. In the engine room, just below the engine, the hull configuration creates a sump where one of my bilge pumps is located. After I had all tanks turned off I noted that my bilge pump kept cycling on and off. Tried to find the source of this anomaly. Could not see a thing. Got a 10"x10" acrylic mirror. Slid the mirror down into that area and observed a steady stream of water coming out of the open end of a 1" PVC pipe which had been glassed onto the bulkhead just below the engine. Since all tanks were shut off and since no more water would come out of the faucets I knew that it could not be a leak in the plumbing system, not only because the tanks were shut off but because the steady stream continued long after time had elapsed for all the pipes to drain. Let it run for an hour and a half. I then plugged the pipe, assuming that the 1" pipe might be a drain pipe leading from the port water tank (sort of like the drain pans used on domestic hot-water heaters). I reasoned that if that were indeed the source then, with the pipe plugged, it would back upl and the water would then begin to leak from around the bottom of the tank. Left it overnight. Still no dampness anywhere. What, in the name of the Good Lord, could be the source of that steady stream of water. What a mystery. In the absence of a genius in this group telling me where it is coming from I am about ready to attirbute it to some yet unknown Water God. Another curious thing is what in the world was the purpose of that pipe which was clearly installed when the boat was built. Maybe I will try to track down Charlie Morgan and ask him. Fat chance he will remember after these many years and all the different boats he built. I think I will now try Salnick's suggestion of filling the tank to the brim and measuring it daily. I simply do not know what else to do short of going ahead and removing what I can't help but believe is a sound tank. Thanks to each of you who was generous enough to reply. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:46:50 -0800, RW Salnick wrote: What does "I could not get pressure" mean? Making the assumption that this means that you could not pressurize your faucets, I assume that you checked out your fresh water pressure pump and found it to be in good condition. And that you checked out the line from the tank to the pump and ascertained that it was not leaking air into the pump. And that there is no leak downstream of the pump which is simply dumping water into the bilge as fast as you can put it into the system with the pump. Right? Pressurizing with compressed air would be very dangerous. With as little as 10 psi, it could explode. Another poster suggested only pressurizing enough to inflate a balloon - this would be safe, but it might be too sensitive - you will have made a barometer! Can you just fill up the tank to the top, and then check it a few days later (without using any water!) and see if the level has changed? bob s/v Eolian Seattle |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Bob
I wish you were right as that would solve the problem. No. The tank definitely vents outboard. I still can not find the source of the water. Possibly, it could be a limber hole to carry water from the forward part of the boat to the bilge pump sump area but I do not think so. I have inspection access to the bilges forward and there is no water there. A real puzzler. When, and if, I find the solution I will post it here. In the meantime you seem to quite analytical minded so I welcome any other ideas you might have. Thanks. George On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 14:03:20 -0800, Robert Salnick wrote: Is the 1" pvc pipe part of the vent/overlow for the tank? Many boats have their vents inboard. I have a siphon start where the end of the vent line is below the top of the tank, and the fill on the tank is above the vent location (tank not level, boat heeled, boat not trimmed, etc). If this is the cause, the siphon should only start when the tank is filled, and should stop when the water level drops below the vent location on the tank... bob |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
If you extend the 1" pvc pipe in the bilge with a bit of clear pipe and hold
it up you shoul dbe able to establish the level of the water that is supplying the flow out of the pipe. This might give a clue to where it is coming from. "Joe Bleau" wrote in message ... In my many years of building and sailing boats this is one of the most perplexing problems I have ever encountered. 1. I have shut off the water at the tank itself. There is a shut off valve on a 3/4" pipe only 2 inches from the tank itself. Thus I am pretty certain the problem is not downstream from the tank. 2. The Morgan OI has another, smaller tank, in the engine room. I have also cut off the water at that tank. 3. In the engine room, just below the engine, the hull configuration creates a sump where one of my bilge pumps is located. After I had all tanks turned off I noted that my bilge pump kept cycling on and off. Tried to find the source of this anomaly. Could not see a thing. Got a 10"x10" acrylic mirror. Slid the mirror down into that area and observed a steady stream of water coming out of the open end of a 1" PVC pipe which had been glassed onto the bulkhead just below the engine. Since all tanks were shut off and since no more water would come out of the faucets I knew that it could not be a leak in the plumbing system, not only because the tanks were shut off but because the steady stream continued long after time had elapsed for all the pipes to drain. Let it run for an hour and a half. I then plugged the pipe, assuming that the 1" pipe might be a drain pipe leading from the port water tank (sort of like the drain pans used on domestic hot-water heaters). I reasoned that if that were indeed the source then, with the pipe plugged, it would back upl and the water would then begin to leak from around the bottom of the tank. Left it overnight. Still no dampness anywhere. What, in the name of the Good Lord, could be the source of that steady stream of water. What a mystery. In the absence of a genius in this group telling me where it is coming from I am about ready to attirbute it to some yet unknown Water God. Another curious thing is what in the world was the purpose of that pipe which was clearly installed when the boat was built. Maybe I will try to track down Charlie Morgan and ask him. Fat chance he will remember after these many years and all the different boats he built. I think I will now try Salnick's suggestion of filling the tank to the brim and measuring it daily. I simply do not know what else to do short of going ahead and removing what I can't help but believe is a sound tank. Thanks to each of you who was generous enough to reply. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:46:50 -0800, RW Salnick wrote: What does "I could not get pressure" mean? Making the assumption that this means that you could not pressurize your faucets, I assume that you checked out your fresh water pressure pump and found it to be in good condition. And that you checked out the line from the tank to the pump and ascertained that it was not leaking air into the pump. And that there is no leak downstream of the pump which is simply dumping water into the bilge as fast as you can put it into the system with the pump. Right? Pressurizing with compressed air would be very dangerous. With as little as 10 psi, it could explode. Another poster suggested only pressurizing enough to inflate a balloon - this would be safe, but it might be too sensitive - you will have made a barometer! Can you just fill up the tank to the top, and then check it a few days later (without using any water!) and see if the level has changed? bob s/v Eolian Seattle |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
Maybe blow into that pipe with a vacuum cleaner? Squirt a little food
color in there first. Maybe you'll be able to find where it's coming from. Have you determined if it's salt or fresh water coming out? You might also put a little food color in the water tanks, a different color for each. It does sound like a limber hole.. any rainwater puddling topsides? |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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130 gal. water tank problem
On Thu, 25 Jan 2007 06:12:35 GMT, "barry lawson"
wrote: If you extend the 1" pvc pipe in the bilge with a bit of clear pipe and hold it up you shoul dbe able to establish the level of the water that is supplying the flow out of the pipe. This might give a clue to where it is coming from. Damn, that's clever. I just happen to have a tube I regularly use as a water level. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks. Joe |
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