Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
130 gal. water tank problem
As you have figured, you need to find out the function of that 1" pipe. Then
you will know what you are dealing with. Maybe you can connect an inflatable dinghy pump to it. Pump and listen. Pump with the water fill cap off with a piece of saran wrap taped over it. It does sound like it could be a drain from a catchment pan... which would indicate your tank is leaking, or overflowing. This appears to be the main problem you have, so it may be immaterial, but I have not seen in any of your subsequent posts an answer to Salnick's question "what do you mean by 'I could not get pressure' ?" This seems to be unrelated, but what do you mean by it ? "Joe Bleau" wrote in message ... In my many years of building and sailing boats this is one of the most perplexing problems I have ever encountered. 1. I have shut off the water at the tank itself. There is a shut off valve on a 3/4" pipe only 2 inches from the tank itself. Thus I am pretty certain the problem is not downstream from the tank. 2. The Morgan OI has another, smaller tank, in the engine room. I have also cut off the water at that tank. 3. In the engine room, just below the engine, the hull configuration creates a sump where one of my bilge pumps is located. After I had all tanks turned off I noted that my bilge pump kept cycling on and off. Tried to find the source of this anomaly. Could not see a thing. Got a 10"x10" acrylic mirror. Slid the mirror down into that area and observed a steady stream of water coming out of the open end of a 1" PVC pipe which had been glassed onto the bulkhead just below the engine. Since all tanks were shut off and since no more water would come out of the faucets I knew that it could not be a leak in the plumbing system, not only because the tanks were shut off but because the steady stream continued long after time had elapsed for all the pipes to drain. Let it run for an hour and a half. I then plugged the pipe, assuming that the 1" pipe might be a drain pipe leading from the port water tank (sort of like the drain pans used on domestic hot-water heaters). I reasoned that if that were indeed the source then, with the pipe plugged, it would back upl and the water would then begin to leak from around the bottom of the tank. Left it overnight. Still no dampness anywhere. What, in the name of the Good Lord, could be the source of that steady stream of water. What a mystery. In the absence of a genius in this group telling me where it is coming from I am about ready to attirbute it to some yet unknown Water God. Another curious thing is what in the world was the purpose of that pipe which was clearly installed when the boat was built. Maybe I will try to track down Charlie Morgan and ask him. Fat chance he will remember after these many years and all the different boats he built. I think I will now try Salnick's suggestion of filling the tank to the brim and measuring it daily. I simply do not know what else to do short of going ahead and removing what I can't help but believe is a sound tank. Thanks to each of you who was generous enough to reply. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 11:46:50 -0800, RW Salnick wrote: What does "I could not get pressure" mean? Making the assumption that this means that you could not pressurize your faucets, I assume that you checked out your fresh water pressure pump and found it to be in good condition. And that you checked out the line from the tank to the pump and ascertained that it was not leaking air into the pump. And that there is no leak downstream of the pump which is simply dumping water into the bilge as fast as you can put it into the system with the pump. Right? Pressurizing with compressed air would be very dangerous. With as little as 10 psi, it could explode. Another poster suggested only pressurizing enough to inflate a balloon - this would be safe, but it might be too sensitive - you will have made a barometer! Can you just fill up the tank to the top, and then check it a few days later (without using any water!) and see if the level has changed? bob s/v Eolian Seattle |
#12
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
130 gal. water tank problem
On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 12:39:33 -0500, Joe Bleau wrote:
My 1977 Morgan OI has an approximately 130 gal. aluminum tank built behind a bulkhead on the port side passageway from the main saloon to the aft cabin. //// Does anyone in this group know of a way of testing the tank, i.e., using compressed air to pressurize the tank and leaving a gauge on it for 24 hours or so to determine if there really is a leak. Any ideas on testing this tank without removing it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe I am late to the party. Two ways to test a water tank. 1st: Fit a u tube to a port. Fill the utuibe with colored water. Pump up the tank (such as with a bicycle tire pump) until you see a difference in water level in the u tube of 12 inches (that's 1/2 psi, which any water tank can handle.) Come back later - what is the difference now? 2nd: Empty tank. Let in some refrigerant gas. Sniff with a refrigerant detector. They are very sensitive. Could rent one? Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
Any thoughts onhow to make this boat better | ASA | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General |