Hello all.

I had a few questions.
We just bought a 1973 Carver Mariner 28' flybridge sedan made of
mahogany on the hull and teak in the cabin. I was wondering if anyone
could help me out.

Here goes....

I was wondering if it is possible to strip down the paint from the
waterline and downwards to apply fiberglassing (cloth??, tape??) to
protect the hull from damage and to make the wood last longer. my
concern is of rot and such. will applying this fiberglass not allow
the wood to "breath" or could it hurt my boat in any way??

I'd like to hear any suggestions.

If its okay to fiberglass from the waterline down, could anyone
suggest how much epoxy to buy to do one or two coats and how big and
how much fiberglass cloth to use to do it?
This will be my first time using fiberglass and stuff on a boat,
actually this is my first boat.

Please any help would be appreciated including how to go about doing
this and where to find cheap fiberglass and epoxy in canada (I live in
Kitchener Ontario).
I've attached a photo of the boat so that you can get an idea of what
im working with, and can send more if anyone's interested.

The length of the boat is 28' and the breath is 10'2"

I also would like to know about which kind of paint to use, i have
heard of using high grade marine paint or antifouling paint. which
one do i use or do i use the marine and then the last coat
antifouling?

These are some of the issues i am worried about and would appreciate
any help, thank you very much.
-Jason.

I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral
to tell you.

I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a
sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra
few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise.

If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat
Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of
those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under
their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some
responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that forum.

As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below
the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for
that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some
work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around
your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do
this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation.

We could all be wrong here.



Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral
to tell you.

I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a
sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra
few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise.

If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat
Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of
those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under
their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some
responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that
forum.

As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below
the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for
that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some
work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around
your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area.

He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the
bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to
"protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit
stronger language was called for.

Matt Langenfeld wrote:
ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do
this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation.

We could all be wrong here.



Glenn Ashmore wrote:

I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral
to tell you.

I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a
sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra
few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise.

If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat
Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of
those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls
under their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely
get some responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull
on that forum.

As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below
the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for
that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some
work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask
around your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in
your area.



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Actually, that advice was just what i was looking for. i wasn't even
sure if i could do it but you answered my questions correctly. the
reason i posted twice is because the first message i posted like 15
hours before the second but it still didn't show up on my newsreader
so i thought that it didnt go through.
Anyways guys, thanks for the advice, ill replace any rotten planks i
see on the hull after sanding and stuff before using antifouling paint
and caulking.

Much Obliged
-Jay.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:58:20 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the
bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to
"protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit
stronger language was called for.

Glenn gets extra credibility because he's not trying to sell anything here.

Matt Langenfeld wrote:

ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do
this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation.

We could all be wrong here.

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral
to tell you.

I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a
sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra
few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise.

If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat
Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of
those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under
their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some
responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that
forum.

As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below
the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for
that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some
work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around
your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area.

Good to hear you're making the right, and informed, decision.

Now if you'll excuse me....I have to go get this shoe taste out of my
mouth.

Jason wrote:

Actually, that advice was just what i was looking for. i wasn't even
sure if i could do it but you answered my questions correctly. the
reason i posted twice is because the first message i posted like 15
hours before the second but it still didn't show up on my newsreader
so i thought that it didnt go through.
Anyways guys, thanks for the advice, ill replace any rotten planks i
see on the hull after sanding and stuff before using antifouling paint
and caulking.

Much Obliged
-Jay.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:58:20 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:


He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the
bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to
"protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit
stronger language was called for.

Jim Conlin wrote:
Glenn gets extra credibility because he's not trying to sell anything here.


Well I DO have this pile of anchors in the back yard. :-)

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn says:

Well I DO have this pile of anchors in the back yard. :-)

You collect Yugos?

;-)

Steve

Matt Langenfeld wrote in message hlink.net...
ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do
this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation.

We could all be wrong here.



Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral
to tell you.

I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a
sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra
few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise.

Allan H. Vaitses has a book called 'Covering Wooden Boats with
Fiberglass' which describes a process that does more than 'squeeze a
few extra years' out of a boat.A fairly common practice around here
for wooden shrimpboats is to clean up the hull,coat the hull with 5200
and imbed 24oz woven roven in that.Once that is set up it is saturated
with polyester resin and more layers of mat and woven roven applied.I
have a friend who covered a 55' three masted Herrschoff schooner(?)
with epoxy and glass and not because it was 'otherwise unsalvagable'
but for less maintenance.He put 2 blades on a skilsaw,reamed out the
seams ALMOST but not quite the full thickness of the planks,packed
them with some sort of thickened epoxy then glassed the whole hull, 20
some years
ago.I think a lot of problems with boats aren't neccesarily 'what' was
done but 'how' it was done.I'm not trying to start anything here, just
trying to explore the ying of the yang.