Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?

the boat is a 1973 Carver Mariner 28' flybridge sedan.
I've attached a picture so you guys can get an idea of this. we just
bought the boat and want to preserve the hull as best as we can from
rot and damage
Thanx for your help,

Jay.

What kind and weight of fiberglass do you plan on using?

Other info that would help if you have it: Wateline height, waterline
beam, waterline length.

You said fiberglass tape. Did you intend to apply tape to each of the
planks? Or on continuous sheet for fibergalss cloth?

--
Matt Langenfeld
JEM Watercraft
http://jemwatercraft.com

bobsuruncle wrote:
Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?

the boat is a 1973 Carver Mariner 28' flybridge sedan.
I've attached a picture so you guys can get an idea of this. we just
bought the boat and want to preserve the hull as best as we can from
rot and damage
Thanx for your help,

Jay.

Is the bottom plywood or planked? If it is planked, fiberglass will
probably be the best thing to kill it. A FRP cover should only be used
to squeeze another 3 or 4 years out of an otherwise unsalvagable hull.
One or two things are going to happen: A) The planks will dry out
opening up the joints and distroying the mutual support that the planks
give each other. Planked bottoms have to be able to move. An FRP
sheath locks the outside fibers in place. Fastners start working out
and the hull looses its integrity. or B) By blocking the salt water the
fresh water from the bilge displaces any residual salt and rot increases.

If the hull is in decent shape now you will be much better off replacing
any rotten planks, recaulking the hull and putting on a decent
anti-fouling bottom paint.

bobsuruncle wrote:

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?

the boat is a 1973 Carver Mariner 28' flybridge sedan.
I've attached a picture so you guys can get an idea of this. we just
bought the boat and want to preserve the hull as best as we can from
rot and damage
Thanx for your help,

Jay.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

bobsuruncle wrote in message . ..
Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?


There is an excellent book about that by Alan Vaitses. I would use his
specifications but with epoxy resin, not polyester. Polyester will not
provide a good bond.
Or get a quote for epoxy and fiberglass from BoatBuidlerCentral.com
They will calculate what you need for free: click on the email link at
that site:
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/

Jacques from bateau.com

I just talked with a guy in our yacht club who took this same path years ago
on a small wooden sailboat. The boat had been out of the water for a while
and the hull had dried out in the process. He glassed it, re-launched it and
in due course the new glass split wide open. The wood had swelled as it took
on small amounts of water and expanded, as we all do over time. The glass is
weaker than expanding wood.
Bottom line: Get some help before you act. I suspect that the earlier advice
that it might buy you another 2-3 years is spot on.
Bob

"Jacques" wrote in message
om...
bobsuruncle wrote in message
. ..
Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?


There is an excellent book about that by Alan Vaitses. I would use his
specifications but with epoxy resin, not polyester. Polyester will not
provide a good bond.
Or get a quote for epoxy and fiberglass from BoatBuidlerCentral.com
They will calculate what you need for free: click on the email link at
that site:
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/

Jacques from bateau.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:oXPxc.9989$Qv1.2342@lakeread03...
Is the bottom plywood or planked?

I must add that I agree with Glen Ashmo if it is planked, leave it
alone, do not fiberglass.
I assumed that this boat was plywood on frame because the father of my
assistant designer owns a Carver 28 from that period and it is plywood
on frame.
My post about usign epoxy applies only to a plywood hull.

In order for glass to hold up to the pressure, the layer must be quite thick
as thick as a normal fiberglass hull. So in effect, you have built a new
hull using the wood as the plug or mold. If you do this, it will work.
Repairs to the structure will then be made from the inside of the boat. And
if the wood framing rots out, at least the the strength of the hull is
mostly in the outer hull of glass and resin.
Wood is not meant to last forever. When planks wear out they are replaced or
splined Wooden boats tend to have low valuations because the upkeep
required is a considerable and a normal part of their life. They are a lot
of work. A covered slip will help a lot.
You can strip off all the finish down to the wood and epoxy right on top of
any wood above the water line to help prevent rot.

"Salty Bob" wrote in message
...
I just talked with a guy in our yacht club who took this same path years
ago
on a small wooden sailboat. The boat had been out of the water for a while
and the hull had dried out in the process. He glassed it, re-launched it
and
in due course the new glass split wide open. The wood had swelled as it
took
on small amounts of water and expanded, as we all do over time. The glass
is
weaker than expanding wood.
Bottom line: Get some help before you act. I suspect that the earlier
advice
that it might buy you another 2-3 years is spot on.
Bob

"Jacques" wrote in message
om...
bobsuruncle wrote in message
. ..
Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?


There is an excellent book about that by Alan Vaitses. I would use his
specifications but with epoxy resin, not polyester. Polyester will not
provide a good bond.
Or get a quote for epoxy and fiberglass from BoatBuidlerCentral.com
They will calculate what you need for free: click on the email link at
that site:
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/

Jacques from bateau.com

Scott Downey (sounds familiar....) says:

In order for glass to hold up to the pressure, the layer must be quite thick
as thick as a normal fiberglass hull.

So that your boat will now be about 35% overweight.

Repairs to the structure will then be made from the inside of the boat.

As long as you don't mind removing ALL the frames to repair one plank ;-)

Basically, all joking aside, if you want a wooden boat, have a wooden boat and
fix it properly when it breaks. If you don't want the hassle, then buy metal
or fiberglass.

Wood is not meant to last forever.

But there are more very old wooden boats around than there are very old steel
boats......

Wooden boats tend to have low valuations because the upkeep
required is a considerable and a normal part of their life.

You may want to check that.

They are a lot
of work.

No kidding ;-) You got that right, but they are worth it.

Steve
Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer
http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm