In order for glass to hold up to the pressure, the layer must be quite thick
as thick as a normal fiberglass hull. So in effect, you have built a new
hull using the wood as the plug or mold. If you do this, it will work.
Repairs to the structure will then be made from the inside of the boat. And
if the wood framing rots out, at least the the strength of the hull is
mostly in the outer hull of glass and resin.
Wood is not meant to last forever. When planks wear out they are replaced or
splined Wooden boats tend to have low valuations because the upkeep
required is a considerable and a normal part of their life. They are a lot
of work. A covered slip will help a lot.
You can strip off all the finish down to the wood and epoxy right on top of
any wood above the water line to help prevent rot.

"Salty Bob" wrote in message
...
I just talked with a guy in our yacht club who took this same path years
ago
on a small wooden sailboat. The boat had been out of the water for a while
and the hull had dried out in the process. He glassed it, re-launched it
and
in due course the new glass split wide open. The wood had swelled as it
took
on small amounts of water and expanded, as we all do over time. The glass
is
weaker than expanding wood.
Bottom line: Get some help before you act. I suspect that the earlier
advice
that it might buy you another 2-3 years is spot on.
Bob

"Jacques" wrote in message
om...
bobsuruncle wrote in message
. ..
Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fiberglass tape and
epoxy i should get to put 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass from the
waterline and down over my wooden hull?


There is an excellent book about that by Alan Vaitses. I would use his
specifications but with epoxy resin, not polyester. Polyester will not
provide a good bond.
Or get a quote for epoxy and fiberglass from BoatBuidlerCentral.com
They will calculate what you need for free: click on the email link at
that site:
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/

Jacques from bateau.com