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  #22   Report Post  
auerbach
 
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Default epoxy thickener

In my view, Scotty, the issue isn't the six bucks for a bag of commercial
thickener.

I'm still trying to figure out how the guy is going to wash the black carbon
off the tiny beads used in toner. Let's see, open washing machine, pour in
five pounds of toner, one cup of detergent, set wash cycle to "delicate",
run the drain through a super-fine filter to catch the cleaned beads, and
buy five dozen long-stemmed roses to try to placate wife when she sees the
inside of the washing machine has turned black.


"Backyard Renegade" wrote in message
om...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message

...
Brian Nystrom ) writes:

Is this supposed to be a joke? If not, remind me never to board a

vessel
that you've built.


talc and flour are used as thickenres in resins. the problem with

scented
talc is the smell released when sanding. urea formaldehyde adehsive
(plastic resin marine glue) is sold as a powder which includes either
wheat or rye flour as a thickener.


Every time I see these threads I just puke. Geeze guys, 6 bucks for a
bag of aerosil enough to do three to four small boats, this thread is
just rediculous...Scotty



  #23   Report Post  
William R. Watt
 
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Default epoxy thickener

Stephen Baker ) writes:
Brian Nystrom writes:

Maybe the next time I need to do some fillets, I'll thicken the epoxy
with Metamucil. It's got plenty of fiber and it should help to produce
fillets that are quite "smooth" and "regular". ;-)


That would only work if the fillet were to be extruded. ;-


I'm not familiar with Metamucil but suspect it may be one of those fine
clay (kaolin) powders suspended in a flavoured water solution. If you boil
off the water all you have left is clay which, like powdered talc, which
would be less expensive to buy dry in the first place. And of course,
water mustn't be mixed with epoxy or polyester resins.

I'm not suggesting insecticide powder as a thickner for fillets. Some kind
of additive for sheathing might be interesting but expoxy itself is
supposed to be impermiable to air and water so it's probably a waste of
money. If the expoxy wears off to the point air and water get at the
wood the insecticide is gone then too.

From what I've read I would use fibre for reinforicing for structural
strength and powder to simply make the resin go further, or in the case of
silica, for added abraision resistance. Both fibre and powder would make
the resin more viscous if that's needed while curing. I've also read that
that the need to sand the cured resin influences which powder to use. I
usually collect wood "flour" for free (sandable fibre) and use that. I've
used powdered talc with epoxy for non-marine repairs around the house.
Laser toner sounds interesting except for the graphite coating. I don't
know what graphite does to resins. Carbon fibre is sought after for
combining with resins, but graphite? Imagine trying to clean up after
sanding. Ugh.


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Sam
 
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Default Re epoxy thickener


Maybe the next time I need to do some fillets, I'll thicken the epoxy
with Metamucil. It's got plenty of fiber and it should help to produce
fillets that are quite "smooth" and "regular". ;-)


Offhand, that sounds like kind of a ****ty idea......
Anyway,sort of related to the topic,if I have to make a fillet of
some kind here's how I do it.I stick the corner of a sandwich bag a
few inches down into a regular soup can and drape the rest of the bag
down the outside of the can.I mix up some fillet stuff and put it in
the bag with a putty knife,twist the bag closed,snip off the corner
and end up with a disposable bag of fillet material that looks like
and is used exactly like the pastry apparatus that pastry people use
to write on pastries with,the name of which I cannot think of at the
moment,but you know what I mean,hopefully.To finish the fillet I
choose an appropriate sized socket from my toolbox,clean of the
grease,wax it up and drag it along at a low angle, ending up with a
fillet flanked by two lines of excess material, which I let set-up
enough to not be all gooey and to be easily taken off with a putty
knife. (Unrelated to the topic, Google won't let me post this as
" epoxy thickener"unless it is a followup,which it is.If I remove
the ":",everything's tits according to Mr. Google, but it starts a new
thread).
  #25   Report Post  
Brian Nystrom
 
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Default epoxy thickener

William R. Watt wrote:

Laser toner sounds interesting except for the graphite coating. I don't
know what graphite does to resins. Carbon fibre is sought after for
combining with resins, but graphite? Imagine trying to clean up after
sanding. Ugh.


My understanding is that toner is not coated. Toner is micro fine,
ground, black plastic that is melted and fused to the paper in the
printer/copier. It's only real use with epoxy is as a tint.

Graphite is sometimes used an a epoxy additive to produce a slippery,
abrasion resistant surface on hulls.



  #26   Report Post  
William R. Watt
 
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Default epoxy thickener

Brian Nystrom ) writes:

My understanding is that toner is not coated.


that was my original assumption but in an earlier article in this thread
we were informed it is coated with graphite.

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  #27   Report Post  
Brian Nystrom
 
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Default epoxy thickener



William R. Watt wrote:

Brian Nystrom ) writes:


My understanding is that toner is not coated.



that was my original assumption but in an earlier article in this thread
we were informed it is coated with graphite.


The pigment used in black toner is carbon black, not graphite. Here's a
link to an MSDS with the details:

http://www.biggestbook.com/MSDSFiles/bbmsds00739.pdf

  #28   Report Post  
DSK
 
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Default epoxy thickener

Jim Conlin wrote:
Watch this space. It's gonna happen.
One of these days, someone will nominate garden dirt as an epoxy filler.
Hey, it's good for standing on and it's cheap.


Makes good non-skid too.

DSK

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