Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub
hose and let you know what I come up with.
I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware
store, I could compare with #s on marine hose.
MMC
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...


MMC wrote:
I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware
store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot
tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference
to
convince me to try it next time.

You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and
hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use.
It'll permeate with odor very quickly.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and
all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline
thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use.

Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule
148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the
"schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system
that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and
which ones aren't.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

MMC wrote:
Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub
hose and let you know what I come up with.
I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware
store, I could compare with #s on marine hose.

You don't need mfr's part #s, only the industry standard numbers...which
should be marked (in fact, I THINK it's required, but I could be wrong)
at intervals on all hose.

As for buying sanitation hose based on price...which is really more
expensive--$3.50/ft every few years...or $8/ft just once? Not to mention
what a major PITA job it is to replace hoses.

Bite the bullet and go with the SeaLand or AVS hose, along with all the
necessary radius fittings to do the job right, so you'll never have to
do it again.

-
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Peggie Hall wrote:
What are "inline radius fittings"?

Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.

Thank you!

I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed
male thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I
had all three in abundance before my husband took over and used a
piece of rubber exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and
smells, than the head that can't be used at all.) Any good
suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting)
the hose?

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.

Cindy Ballreich wrote:

SNIP

Any good

suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting)
the hose?

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:16:55 GMT, Cindy Ballreich
wrote:

Peggie Hall wrote:
What are "inline radius fittings"?

Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.

Thank you!

I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed
male thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I
had all three in abundance before my husband took over and used a
piece of rubber exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and
smells, than the head that can't be used at all.) Any good
suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting)
the hose?

Cindy

Stretching hose, specially plastic hose, specially by heating,
is not the greatest idea, long-term. Tensional loads have a way of
splitting the ends, sooner or later.

Brian W

Jim Conlin wrote:
Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split.
Also, once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than
the rest of the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west
marine hose oil.

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
Jim Conlin wrote:

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also,
once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of
the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

KY

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn says:

KY

I originally read that as "OK - why?" and wondered why West Marine Hose Oil was
so bad.

I guess it's just a slow day down here....

Steve

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections???

I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on
a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently
slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No
petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to
rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble
surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed male
thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I had all three
in abundance before my husband took over and used a piece of rubber
exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and smells, than the head that
can't be used at all.) Any good suggestions for making this work without
heating (and splitting) the hose?


Only one solution I can think of, Cindy...a reducing adapter that'll let
you put the right size hose on the thru-hull, then step it down to 1.5".

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.htm