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Ilv2sl
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

While we have our 35' glass sloop, out of the water, I want to paint the bilge,
and have a few questions:
What is best to clean the bilge with? The bilge has had oil, in it at times,
and has a lot of stains. Many areas of the full keel are only reached by brush.
What paint is the best to use?
I have never applied Gel Coat. IT this an option?
Any ideas would be great to hear.
Thanks
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Steve
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

Gel coat isn't going to do anything for you that a ordinary two part epoxy
paint can't do better..

I recommend staying away from white because it doesn't stay white very
long..

Sherman Williams has a epoxy cement patio paint that comes in a terracotta
color. It is much cheaper than marine paint (I don't remember the price but
it is a bargin)..

I'm using some surplus ProLine epoxy polymide and it is standing up well to
all abuse and gives an appearance that reminds me of similar color used in
my ole navy ships..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions


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Steve
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

I should have mentioned the obvious need to clean and degrease the bilge..
Even if it were virgin glass surface, it would still have wax on it..

I would hate to see anyone use large quantities of acetone in the bilge. But
I believe you can clean it adequately with TSP to clean and remove the
grease and ordinary dirt.. Followed by plenty of ventilation and a wipe down
with acetone. Just be careful..

Steve


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Jim Conlin
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

If, down the road, you need to do some glass work in the bilge such as tank
supports, bilge pump brackets, table posts, engine beds or whatever, it'll be
harder to prep if the surface has been painted. I'd wash it and forget it.

Ilv2sl wrote:

While we have our 35' glass sloop, out of the water, I want to paint the bilge,
and have a few questions:
What is best to clean the bilge with? The bilge has had oil, in it at times,
and has a lot of stains. Many areas of the full keel are only reached by brush.
What paint is the best to use?
I have never applied Gel Coat. IT this an option?
Any ideas would be great to hear.
Thanks


  #5   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

Ilv2sl writes:

While we have our 35' glass sloop, out of the water, I want to paint the

bilge,
and have a few questions:

snip

WHY? ? ?

Trying to get the bilge clean enough so you could paint it will be a real
challenge.

If you get it clean, you'll need a couple of coats of high build epoxy
primer.

This is not the same epoxy as laminating resin.

Trust me, brush or sprayer, applying this stuff if a PITA. I speak from
experience having applied a fair amount of HBP. It contains VOC's and
requires a proper respirator.

After it has cured, what have you accomplished?

My suggestion:

Use the money to buy a couple of cases of "Two Buck Chuck" or your favorite
beer, relax and enjoy it.

The bilge will still be functional.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures




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rude
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

I agree, clean the bilge and spend the money elsewhere, what about your
sails, or antifouling?

Acetone and similar solvents are harmful to human tissue and for fire and
explosion risk (I am a safety person by trade), only use this stuff if you
really, really have to. This situation doesn't sound like a "have to" to me.
Ventilation won't help, neither will a respirator. You will still have a 35'
bomb to deal with.

Use good quality detergent mixed with warm water and a brush. This will most
likely give a far superior job anyway to any solvent. Another con, is the
acetone will open the surface of the 'glass on the inside, possibly doing
more harm than good.

Have fun.

Rod.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Ilv2sl writes:

While we have our 35' glass sloop, out of the water, I want to paint

the
bilge,
and have a few questions:

snip

WHY? ? ?

Trying to get the bilge clean enough so you could paint it will be a real
challenge.

If you get it clean, you'll need a couple of coats of high build epoxy
primer.

This is not the same epoxy as laminating resin.

Trust me, brush or sprayer, applying this stuff if a PITA. I speak from
experience having applied a fair amount of HBP. It contains VOC's and
requires a proper respirator.

After it has cured, what have you accomplished?

My suggestion:

Use the money to buy a couple of cases of "Two Buck Chuck" or your

favorite
beer, relax and enjoy it.

The bilge will still be functional.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the

Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures




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steveJ
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

I cleaned the bilge of my sailboat with joy dishwashing liquid,warm
water, a stiff brush and plenty of elbow grease. Then I painted it with
Glidden white latex enamel paint. I tested a small area first to
be sure it would stick. It has worked great. This was simple, safe, and
inexpensive and it dried quickly. Unlike another poster's suggestion, I
used white because I wanted it to reflect as much light as possible when
I am looking around under there on a dark night.


Ilv2sl wrote:
While we have our 35' glass sloop, out of the water, I want to paint the bilge,
and have a few questions:
What is best to clean the bilge with? The bilge has had oil, in it at times,
and has a lot of stains. Many areas of the full keel are only reached by brush.
What paint is the best to use?
I have never applied Gel Coat. IT this an option?
Any ideas would be great to hear.
Thanks


  #8   Report Post  
Steve
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

The 'other' OP responses are all correct and my intial post was intended to
discourage the OPer from painting or gel coating. However if he were to
proceed the effort would be worthless unless the glass surface were properly
cleaned.

My bilges were painted while the boat interior was still open and
ventilation was practical..

As a final note of caution. The interior of a polyester fiberglass boat has
a surfacing agent residue in the interior of the glass hull. This is a very
thin film of wax that floats to the surface of the resin during the curing
process. This wax film must be removed before anything will bond to the
glass hull. During the construction process it is customary to wipe the area
of attachment with acetone. However in a completed boat there are too many
low points and pockets where these fumes can accumulate and only strong spot
ventilation can purge these fumes.

There for I with draw my recommendation for bilge painting after the
interior is installed..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions


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Terry
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

I used a small pressure washer and some citrus based degreaser from Home
Depot along with the usual brushes and elbow grease. Did a good job, but I
suspect a rented steam cleaner would do better. I bought a gallon of
Interlux Bilgkote but have not applied it yet, so cannot report.

TErry

--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
  #10   Report Post  
 
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Default Cleaning and painting bilge

On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 00:36:49 GMT, Terry wrote:

I used a small pressure washer and some citrus based degreaser from Home
Depot along with the usual brushes and elbow grease. Did a good job, but I
suspect a rented steam cleaner would do better. I bought a gallon of
Interlux Bilgkote but have not applied it yet, so cannot report.



I put a quart of this rather drab grey stuff in the bilges of the
engine compartment aft to the coupling and forward to the intake of
the manual pump in the cabin (I have shallow bilges, about three
inches) aft of the keel.)

I found two things: Bilgekote cleans up relatively well, can stand
water and oil spray (don't ask!) and seems adequate for the job.

The other thing is that putting an aluminum roasting pan between your
engine mounts is a cheap and effective way to reduce mess from engine
operation, maintenance, whatever. Even fully maintained engines in
good working order throw a little goo now and then, and the roasting
pan (which can be bent a bit to fit) is an easy fix.

R.

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