Hey Scott,

Are you planning on fairing away the seams? If so, then glued-carvel
would be fine ...not a lot different from strip-building, except for the
mention of a splined joint between the planks. If you are not going to
fair-away the seams, then it seems to me that the finish work will be
harder. With epoxy, you must really seal 100% of the wood, on all sides.
Epoxy's great stuff, but it also holds water at the epoxy/wood interface.
Hence the reason for a complete seal and then keeping it that way. I think
a fellow should either commit to a 100% seal on all sides, or forget epoxy
completely. My 2-bits. You might also check with Al Gunther, who frequents
r.b.b.. I can't remember for sure, but I think he's doing glued-carvel.
Or, I should say that he's building a 26' carvel-planked sailboat and when I
needed it, he had a lot of very good advice on the use of epoxy. Might try
a search on "Al's 26" and see what you find.

Brian


"Scott Downey" wrote in message
...

http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1116
Glued Carvel
Plank edges may be shaped and glued with a thickened epoxy mix or
alternatively the seams of dry fitted planks may be routed later to a
constant width and fitted with wooden splines which are glued into place.
This latter method is the usual treatment when a traditionally built
carvel
craft is reconstructed using epoxy adhesives as part of a full restoration
program. Sometimes a thickened epoxy mix is introduced into the seams as
an
alternative to wooden splines and this seems to be just as effective in
fastening the plank edges together. The planking is also glued to the
spine
and framework, which on new boats is built of laminated hardwood, glued
and
coated with epoxy.