I came across an interesting idea, take a regular old carvel planked boat,
remove the planks, cut them into strips and reattach using this method.

But only do this to the area under the waterline. Has anyone ever reused
planks this way? I wonder how long would it take to refashion the hull
reusing the original planks. I have an old eggharbor and this idea looked
interesting. My hull is in good shape but this sounds very solid and
stronger than the original construction. My planks are 1" mahogany.

http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2001/0615/

a quote from the site

Here are some modern changes in use to carvel planking:

Imagine a hull designed to be planked up with lumber 1-1/2" thick and 3"
wide carvel style. The planks are not joined edge to edge with each other as
in the old style. Now a new builder comes along and planks the same shape
but with lumber 1-1/2" square. Twice as many sticks are required of course,
but now he can put long narrow nails along the edges and lock each stick to
its neighbor. This is usually called "strip planking". As the builder works
he can seal the joints with sealant or even epoxy. He may not have to bevel
any edges since his thick sealant should keep water out and the nails ensure
that the joints won't flex. A boat built this way becomes sort of a monolith
and may not need the usual ribs, etc. to keep its strength. Indeed I've seen
in Bolger's books this plan done with no ribs or internal framing when the
hull is built. Instead the shaping molds are external and the strips laid
inside the molds. Large boats can be done this way.

Planking on a carvel hull is tappered and curved.. Sometimes, in the area of
the turn of the bilge the plank will be planed with a hollow to accomodate
the radius. Vessels with a lot of shape in the stern or with 'tumble home'
each plank will be either tappered down to a couple inches or will be
hollowed out to fit the radius of the transom..

It's been 40+ years since I did any carvel planking but I think I remember
the term for planing a inside radius was 'backing out' and the special plane
was a 'backing out plane'..

If you were able to take one of the planks and lay it out flat (not likely)
it would not be anything close to straight.. the plank is cut to shape to
utimately form uniform seams and the plank isn't suppose to be Edge Set (I
have edge set planks but never more than a 1/4 the thickness of the plank).


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions