Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hello all,
I am working on a Vhull boat and am trying to raise the top section from the bottom section to repair some flooring.. we have raised most of the top section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or absorbant on it. We are trying to find a way to dissolve it or free it so we can raise the top half of the boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish this. thanks |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:27:15 -0400, "James & Julie Fields"
wrote: Hello all, I am working on a Vhull boat and am trying to raise the top section from the bottom section to repair some flooring.. we have raised most of the top section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or absorbant on it. We are trying to find a way to dissolve it or free it so we can raise the top half of the boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish this. thanks Not really practical - do the chip, grind, saw, smash thing. can you get sharp chisel in there? - use it at an angle.- for funny shapes heat and heat bend a cheap screwdriver, or broken saw blade. Can you get a drill bit ( rotary grinder) in there? Run a skillsaw down the edge? Sometimes its easier/cheaper/quicker to smash something in an area least exotic - or the least tricky shape to repair later. So by being in control, as in putting in a score mark, or saw cut, you direct the break line - its better than just letting it smash where ever it chooses. There will be a neat tidy way of doing it somehow. The window guys - have a heavy knife they smack with a hammer. My favourite tool - is the angle grinder, nothing much beats it. If you put a charge out rate to your time - it draws the line on quite a few exotic methods and brings up the timeline - While you can be in and out of there without to much fuss. ( but you should have a good toolbox) - so money invested in tools -or time wasted? - its a trade off thing. Most guys just grind it out - As in playing with chemicals can give you more grief than its worth. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
The more tools in the kit, the better. Another useful tool for such surgical
demolition projects is the Fein multimaster detail sander with a HSS 'cast cutter' blade. Bruce Taylor wrote: --On Monday, July 07, 2003 4:27 PM -0400 James & Julie Fields wrote: [...] we have raised most of the top section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or absorbant on it. [...] While it sounds slightly different (I've never heard of a soft epoxy!) I recently had a similar joy with a Wellcraft "restoration". After removing the various screws holding the rubrail to the shoebox hull joint and removing the screws under the rubrail, I still could not separate the hull halves near the stern. It turned out that the builder had adding some lateral plywood bracing between the two sections aft, and had also built a 'step' on the transom with gobs of epoxy on top, onto which the upper hull had been lowered. The plywood laterals were then globbed with epoxy as well. To deal with the lateral bracing, I wound up using (abusing!) a Sawzall with a long blade, working up from the bilges. When I ran out of room to swing the saw up, I had to use a large hole saw to create access holes on the inner topsides for some drilling to start further sawzall action. FYI: The epoxy was loaded with silica, which just ate up the sawzall blades, so I mostly tried to cut the plywood whenever possible. The 'step with gobs of epoxy' was dealt with by whacking at the plywood step with an improvised chisel: about 3' of 3/16" mild steel with a chisel edge ground in (and renewed often). That and some sawzall action finally broke the step loose. Again, the epoxy was about indestructable. Once the hull halves were separated I cleaned up the damage. The access holes were later covered with standard 6" screw-in covers. Actually, the holes worked nicely when lifting the upper hull -- I just ran a 4x4 between the holes. A small angle grinder is essential for this sort of work -- but I had problems using it in the above separation. Lying on your back in a cramped bilge compartment and using a grinder is a really nasty experience, even with a moonsuit! Wear a *good* respirator and goggles! I'd point you towards some detailed pictures, but the website is presently backlogged by about a year (I'll be catching up in August or September, I hope!) http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/blt/index.html Best of luck, - Bruce |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
James & Julie Fields wrote:
Hello all, I am working on a Vhull boat and am trying to raise the top section from the bottom section to repair some flooring.. we have raised most of the top section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or absorbant on it. We are trying to find a way to dissolve it or free it so we can raise the top half of the boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish this. thanks epoxies soften with heat and can then be chipped away. Might try a heat gun... paul oman www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html -- ================================================== ===== PAUL OMAN ----- Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Frog Pond Hollow - 48 Wildwood Dr - Pittsfield NH 03263 603-435-7199 FAX 603-435-7182 VISA/MC/Discover http://www.epoxyproducts.com Boating site: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html ================================================== ====== |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I've tried many, many, solvents on epoxy. (Pardon the spelling.
It's late and my spell check doesn't do basic chemisty.) The only thing that I found that seemes to work consistantly is something like the Butyl Lactone solution used to remove flux from circuit boards. It doesn't seem to dig into phynolic matricies, but most epoxies I've tried it in fell right atart. DO NOT get this on anything that you want to keep and re-use. Small drops ate clean through a plastic windshield I wanted to keep, Caused latex gloves to stick to my hands. It also ate my blue tarp and made a glob out of it. Test it on small areas first. Some substances it turnes to goo, while others it caused to become embrittled and crazed. It seems to clean up with acitone or soapy water. It becomes terribly exothermic when reacting with basic compounds. (LIKE SOAP) Good Luck. On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:27:15 -0400, "James & Julie Fields" wrote: Hello all, I am working on a Vhull boat and am trying to raise the top section from the bottom section to repair some flooring.. we have raised most of the top section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or absorbant on it. We are trying to find a way to dissolve it or free it so we can raise the top half of the boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish this. thanks |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
The short answer is almost none. Fully cured epoxy is one of the most
solvent resistant polymer systems known. It can be softened by very strong, but difficult to handle, solvents like dimethylformamide, but because of its high molecular weight and inherent chemical resistance it is practically not removable by chemical means. http://www.hisglassworks.com/pages/attack.html seem to think otherwise. A hot air gun can also heat epoxy to over 225 C which will soften it to the consistency of brown sugar. "FCC Director" wrote in message ... | I've tried many, many, solvents on epoxy. (Pardon the spelling. | It's late and my spell check doesn't do basic chemisty.) The only | thing that I found that seemes to work consistantly is something like | the Butyl Lactone solution used to remove flux from circuit boards. It | doesn't seem to dig into phynolic matricies, but most epoxies I've | tried it in fell right atart. DO NOT get this on anything that you | want to keep and re-use. Small drops ate clean through a plastic | windshield I wanted to keep, Caused latex gloves to stick to my hands. | It also ate my blue tarp and made a glob out of it. Test it on small | areas first. Some substances it turnes to goo, while others it caused | to become embrittled and crazed. It seems to clean up with acitone or | soapy water. It becomes terribly exothermic when reacting with basic | compounds. (LIKE SOAP) | Good Luck. | On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:27:15 -0400, "James & Julie Fields" | wrote: | | Hello all, | I am working on a Vhull boat and am trying to raise the top section from the | bottom section to repair some flooring.. we have raised most of the top | section off but have come to a halt when trying to completely seperate the 2 | sections. The back of the boat has soft yet dense "epoxy" type sealant or | absorbant on it. We are trying to find a way to dissolve it or free it so we | can raise the top half of the boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how | to accomplish this. | | thanks | | |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Q for Peggie re type I MSD and holding tanks | General | |||
Mounting pad for a large outboard motor - what material should it be made from? | General | |||
Boat trailer bearings: Oil vs Grease, which type is best? | General | |||
Epoxy stanchions to deck?? | General | |||
Source for lexan or similar tranparent material - for tranparentdome on singlehander | Boat Building |