Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.
Also frames accross boat to retain shape. But remember, the fewer pieces
there are, the faster and easier it will be to build. For example, if
bottom is V-shaped or W-shaped instead of flat you get quick and easy
support from folds without cutting. Long and narrow is faster than short
and fat. Minimize two kinds of drag: a) amount of surface friction with
water, b) amount of waves made (that's where long and narrow comes in).
Turn boat over, tape plastic to outside to waterproof.

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William R. Watt ) writes:
Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.

I forgot about gunwales and side decks. Fold over along top of side.
The triangle idea sounds good here.

Be sure to let us know if we win.

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On 2 Sep 2005 15:15:00 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


William R. Watt ) writes:
Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.

I forgot about gunwales and side decks. Fold over along top of side.
The triangle idea sounds good here.

Maybe cut the sides a little thicker and just fold it over so it is
one piece.... hmm... lots to think about.

Be sure to let us know if we win.

Pictures will be posted (somewhere) either way.

Thanks for all the help.

dave



email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

a punt or a pirogue would be quick and easy.
I've built small boats out of 4' wide plywood by making the bottom 2' wide
and the two sides 1' high.
take a look at the 11x2x1 Jock River punt on my website below. click on
"Boats"

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On 2 Sep 2005 14:57:41 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


Yes, yes. Can support with stringers running the lenth of the boat, either
triangular cross section as suggested, or at right angles like an I-beam.
Also frames accross boat to retain shape. But remember, the fewer pieces
there are, the faster and easier it will be to build. For example, if
bottom is V-shaped or W-shaped instead of flat you get quick and easy
support from folds without cutting. Long and narrow is faster than short
and fat. Minimize two kinds of drag: a) amount of surface friction with
water, b) amount of waves made (that's where long and narrow comes in).
Turn boat over, tape plastic to outside to waterproof.

I'm not as concerned with speed of construction. I have from 9:00am
till about 4:30-5:00 in the afternoon to get done. With no paint or
glue to dry, and no epoxy to cure, 7-8 hours should be enough time.

My other concern is what direction the corrigation goes. If the
cardboard is "strong" on the 5' dimention, It would mean more splices
on the sides, and I would want to plan accordingly.

If it is strong on the 8' dimention, then I basically have two sheets
of plywood, and a pair of pieces that are one foot by 8 feet that can
be cut into strips for the triangle tubes.

I am planning a 12-14 foot canoe, with triangle tubes running down
both the tops of the sides, and three horizontal members holding the
sides where they should go. I kinda like the cinderella canoe
(don't recall where I found it) and the NC14 from banteau.com.

I also considered making a "one sheet boat" and then using the other
sheet of carboard to "double up" the hull. I'm just not sure if that
would be the fastest, or if the canoe would be better. I will be the
only one in the boat, and it has to be paddled. (paddles provided)

This brings up thoughts of seating location. Lower is more stable,
but more power can be gained from kneelling. Of course, kneeling will
also put more stress on the bottom of the boat than sitting will.
Sitting should spread it out more, right?

just some more thoughts....


thanks!

dave


email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com
please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!