Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.

traditional treatment is 50% kerosene and 50% linseed oil. I use 50% paint
thinner on my small boats instead of kerosene. The kerosenes is supposed
to kill microbes as well as thin the oil so it soaks into wood, cracks,
etc. You're supposed to wipe off any excess oil after 1/2 hour. No problem
for me on small open plywood boats. I usually brush it on and work it into
any seams, two coats on successve days.

okey dokey ) writes:
Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.


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It should be pointed out that "encapsulation" of a wood hull should be
done when first built, 3 applications of epoxy resin recommended, when the
wood is clean and dry. Even then there is some disagreement on susequent
absorbtion of water through abraisions, etc. But for an older boat any
attempt to seal the inside of the hull also seals in dirt, microbes and
moisture, all of which can cause problems and spread under the sealant.
With the an older decked over wood sailboat I owned (monocoque mahogony
strip) I applied a coat of thinned linseed oil with a stiff brush every
second year on the advice of the builder who insisted wood needs to
"breathe".

It's a lot like trying to prevent rust on a car. Any aftermarket rust
treatmenmt should be done at time of purchase. Otherwise annual underbody
treatment with oil is effective, some think moreso.


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okey dokey wrote:

Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.

you can get a FLEXIBLE epoxy paint for about $65 per gallon.

paul oman


--

I have used this approach on a traditional built garden shed.

But I was disappointed to read that this kind of "varnish"
is all but ineffective for waterproofing wood.

It does better on the interiors of sealed steel pipes, because of the
oxygen take up of raw linseed, apparently.

Brian W


On 28 Mar 2005 13:51:10 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


traditional treatment is 50% kerosene and 50% linseed oil. I use 50% paint
thinner on my small boats instead of kerosene. The kerosenes is supposed
to kill microbes as well as thin the oil so it soaks into wood, cracks,
etc. You're supposed to wipe off any excess oil after 1/2 hour. No problem
for me on small open plywood boats. I usually brush it on and work it into
any seams, two coats on successve days.

okey dokey ) writes:
Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.

Thanks guys for all of your help. Ill keep thinking about it, maybe
flexible apoxy paint.

How long do you think the hull will last if i encapsulate it from now?
are we talking a year, 5 years, 10?

-Jay

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 02:49:22 -0500, okey dokey
wrote:

Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:59:35 -0500, okey dokey
wrote:

Thanks guys for all of your help. Ill keep thinking about it, maybe
flexible apoxy paint.

How long do you think the hull will last if i encapsulate it from now?
are we talking a year, 5 years, 10?

Hi

Probably best not to encapsulate on the inside, it may need to dry out
from the inside to stop rot.

Why was it encapsulated on the outside? Also is it lying in salt water
or fresh, and does any rainwater leak into the bilges or are they dry?

cheers,
Pete.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 02:49:22 -0500, okey dokey
wrote:

Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.

Why do you think that you could goober something on the inside of the
boat to seal it?

The best thing you could do with this boat is to give it to someone
who has the time, money and knowledge to properly care for it.

Poorly considered fiberglass jobs on wooden boats kill them. Your
"repair" technique is almost certainly bound to fail. You don't solve
a problem by covering it up. Your boat most likely will begin to have
significant rot problems in a short time. (If it does not already.) In
any case, you have certainly destroyed the value of the boat to anyone
but the most ill-informed.

Hi
I will back up the doubts --- my experience is that it is a huge
trouble, the exact thing you shuld not do, an aproach no one with just
a bit experience would show , one layer of glasfiber and only covering
the bottom is not good you simply are asking for trouble and it don't
make it better looking for CHEAP means.
If you use polyester to save an old wooden hull you shuld not make it
into a patchwork you shuld cover it all, you must make the glasfiber
stronger than the old hull ,that's the only way, if you doubt try look
around and find a boat where one layer just covering the bottom have
worked , beside the attitude to make it CHEAP will only produce a CHEAP
boat something you never will be pleased with, a cheap repair will
bring nothing but vorry and I am sorry to say, I never seen covering
just the bottom, ever had brought anything but vaste of money and time.

Okay, how much do you think it would cost to replank the hull? all
planks?

The reason we did the outside is for our peace of mind. you see, when
we got the boat there were some holes in the hull about a foot to two
feet long and about 1/2 foot wide. We figured that it would be easier
to patch the holes instead of replanking the whole thing.. we cut
around it untill we got to good wood (no rot) \, then made wood
patches (1/2" planks cut to size) that fit there and used epoxy and
woodflour putty to glue them in place. I know this is supposed to be
strong enough but my father had his doubts so we put one layer on just
incase there was some small hole we had overlooked, trying to "cover
our asses" (no pun intended).
I am against putting the sealant inside the hull because i feel that
what we have done is enough but he is insisting so i posted the
question.

The boat is in fresh water, on dry dock now for a year and a half, and
some water does get in the bilge via a leaky deck when it rains but
the plug is out of the hull and the water drains as fast as it enters.
fixing the deck is the next chore.
Last time i was at the boat (last october) we had gotten rid of all of
the rot damage and had patched where it had been via method above.

As you can tell we are first time boatworkers learning as we are going
and seeing as we picked the boat up for 2000 it seemed a pretty cheap
boat to learn on.

so... saying that, please..... ANY suggestions anyone has about the
hull and also the upcoming fixing of the deck are welcome and
appreciated.

I will have pictures up on a website within the next month for anyone
interested seeing just what i am talking about.
Thank you very much.
-Jason.

On 2 Apr 2005 05:56:54 -0800, wrote:

Hi
I will back up the doubts --- my experience is that it is a huge
trouble, the exact thing you shuld not do, an aproach no one with just
a bit experience would show , one layer of glasfiber and only covering
the bottom is not good you simply are asking for trouble and it don't
make it better looking for CHEAP means.
If you use polyester to save an old wooden hull you shuld not make it
into a patchwork you shuld cover it all, you must make the glasfiber
stronger than the old hull ,that's the only way, if you doubt try look
around and find a boat where one layer just covering the bottom have
worked , beside the attitude to make it CHEAP will only produce a CHEAP
boat something you never will be pleased with, a cheap repair will
bring nothing but vorry and I am sorry to say, I never seen covering
just the bottom, ever had brought anything but vaste of money and time.