Hi
I think you must realise that now you started with polyester that you
now have to do the full job, that will also make any problem with the
deck much easyer to fix. ---- Seen loads of old boats saved with
various glasfiber treadments but, those where the owner are satisfied
are allway\s these where the intire hull plus deck in one shall are
covered with enough resin to make the new hull stronger than the old.
Sorry but this is how it is, any one who only done the bottom ,after a
year start complain that the glasfiber start going lose, start complain
that to repair that all the glasfiber done a few years ago have to be
taken off again so, please consider what you will gain doing the lot
once and for all, as when done and done right you have a boat that will
last . But then the new layers need to be "stronger than the old boat",
---- beside epoxy are more expensive, you can cover much more with
glasfiber and resin and once the intire hull is covered you have the
boat you want, not one that need patch after patch.

okey dokey wrote:

Okay, how much do you think it would cost to replank the hull? all
planks?

The reason we did the outside is for our peace of mind. you see, when
we got the boat there were some holes in the hull about a foot to two
feet long and about 1/2 foot wide. We figured that it would be easier
to patch the holes instead of replanking the whole thing.. we cut
around it untill we got to good wood (no rot) \, then made wood
patches (1/2" planks cut to size) that fit there and used epoxy and
woodflour putty to glue them in place. I know this is supposed to be
strong enough but my father had his doubts so we put one layer on just
incase there was some small hole we had overlooked, trying to "cover
our asses" (no pun intended).
I am against putting the sealant inside the hull because i feel that
what we have done is enough but he is insisting so i posted the
question.

The boat is in fresh water, on dry dock now for a year and a half, and
some water does get in the bilge via a leaky deck when it rains but
the plug is out of the hull and the water drains as fast as it enters.
fixing the deck is the next chore.
Last time i was at the boat (last october) we had gotten rid of all of
the rot damage and had patched where it had been via method above.

As you can tell we are first time boatworkers learning as we are going
and seeing as we picked the boat up for 2000 it seemed a pretty cheap
boat to learn on.

so... saying that, please..... ANY suggestions anyone has about the
hull and also the upcoming fixing of the deck are welcome and
appreciated.

I will have pictures up on a website within the next month for anyone
interested seeing just what i am talking about.
Thank you very much.
-Jason.

On 2 Apr 2005 05:56:54 -0800, wrote:

-------------
HELLO

keep in mind the wood expands and contracts based on moisture and epoxy or
polyester resin expands and contracts due to temp. The two will work against
each other unless you completely encase the wood with the resin thus keeping
all moisture away from the wood. Also - I suggest a flexible epoxy so that
it can 'move' with the wood.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers

"Paul Oman" wrote in message
...
okey dokey wrote:

Okay, how much do you think it would cost to replank the hull? all
planks?

The reason we did the outside is for our peace of mind. you see, when
we got the boat there were some holes in the hull about a foot to two
feet long and about 1/2 foot wide. We figured that it would be easier
to patch the holes instead of replanking the whole thing.. we cut
around it untill we got to good wood (no rot) \, then made wood
patches (1/2" planks cut to size) that fit there and used epoxy and
woodflour putty to glue them in place. I know this is supposed to be
strong enough but my father had his doubts so we put one layer on just
incase there was some small hole we had overlooked, trying to "cover
our asses" (no pun intended).
I am against putting the sealant inside the hull because i feel that
what we have done is enough but he is insisting so i posted the
question.

The boat is in fresh water, on dry dock now for a year and a half, and
some water does get in the bilge via a leaky deck when it rains but
the plug is out of the hull and the water drains as fast as it enters.
fixing the deck is the next chore.
Last time i was at the boat (last october) we had gotten rid of all of
the rot damage and had patched where it had been via method above.

As you can tell we are first time boatworkers learning as we are going
and seeing as we picked the boat up for 2000 it seemed a pretty cheap
boat to learn on.

so... saying that, please..... ANY suggestions anyone has about the
hull and also the upcoming fixing of the deck are welcome and
appreciated.

I will have pictures up on a website within the next month for anyone
interested seeing just what i am talking about.
Thank you very much.
-Jason.

On 2 Apr 2005 05:56:54 -0800, wrote:

-------------
HELLO

keep in mind the wood expands and contracts based on moisture and epoxy or
polyester resin expands and contracts due to temp. The two will work
against
each other unless you completely encase the wood with the resin thus
keeping
all moisture away from the wood. Also - I suggest a flexible epoxy so that
it can 'move' with the wood.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers


Hi,

My boat is fully fiberglassed over wood. The job was done back in the mid
80's and surveyed/sounded well over the entire hull both below and above the
water line.

What I have heard....there are only two good ways to glass an older wood
boat.
*C-Flex....process of rubber mastic to the wood, large quantity of fiber
rods run the length of the boat and then glassed

*Repair the original wood planking and remove all paint, add 1/2" new marine
grade plywood at 45 degree to keel. Add fiberglass....at least 3 layers.

No one I have spoken to advised glassing both sides of the planking. The
wood needs to breathe and be exposed to air flow. I have been told that
covering both sides normally results in rot. I have also been told to add
salt to the bilge water if boat is kept in fresh water.

The other issue that came up several times....if you have chosen to directly
fiberglass over the original planking...then be prepared for the fiberglass
letting go of the wood due to the oil in the painted wood (even though
sanded, or remove) This of course is not good and can lead to a sunken
boat.

Good luck,

Marshall

MarshallE wrote:

"Paul Oman" wrote in message
...
okey dokey wrote:

Okay, how much do you think it would cost to replank the hull? all
planks?

The reason we did the outside is for our peace of mind. you see, when
we got the boat there were some holes in the hull about a foot to two
feet long and about 1/2 foot wide. We figured that it would be easier
to patch the holes instead of replanking the whole thing.. we cut
around it untill we got to good wood (no rot) \, then made wood
patches (1/2" planks cut to size) that fit there and used epoxy and
woodflour putty to glue them in place. I know this is supposed to be
strong enough but my father had his doubts so we put one layer on just
incase there was some small hole we had overlooked, trying to "cover
our asses" (no pun intended).
I am against putting the sealant inside the hull because i feel that
what we have done is enough but he is insisting so i posted the
question.

The boat is in fresh water, on dry dock now for a year and a half, and
some water does get in the bilge via a leaky deck when it rains but
the plug is out of the hull and the water drains as fast as it enters.
fixing the deck is the next chore.
Last time i was at the boat (last october) we had gotten rid of all of
the rot damage and had patched where it had been via method above.

As you can tell we are first time boatworkers learning as we are going
and seeing as we picked the boat up for 2000 it seemed a pretty cheap
boat to learn on.

so... saying that, please..... ANY suggestions anyone has about the
hull and also the upcoming fixing of the deck are welcome and
appreciated.

I will have pictures up on a website within the next month for anyone
interested seeing just what i am talking about.
Thank you very much.
-Jason.

On 2 Apr 2005 05:56:54 -0800, wrote:

-------------
HELLO

keep in mind the wood expands and contracts based on moisture and epoxy or
polyester resin expands and contracts due to temp. The two will work
against
each other unless you completely encase the wood with the resin thus
keeping
all moisture away from the wood. Also - I suggest a flexible epoxy so that
it can 'move' with the wood.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers


Hi,

My boat is fully fiberglassed over wood. The job was done back in the mid
80's and surveyed/sounded well over the entire hull both below and above the
water line.

What I have heard....there are only two good ways to glass an older wood
boat.
*C-Flex....process of rubber mastic to the wood, large quantity of fiber
rods run the length of the boat and then glassed

*Repair the original wood planking and remove all paint, add 1/2" new marine
grade plywood at 45 degree to keel. Add fiberglass....at least 3 layers.

No one I have spoken to advised glassing both sides of the planking. The
wood needs to breathe and be exposed to air flow. I have been told that
covering both sides normally results in rot. I have also been told to add
salt to the bilge water if boat is kept in fresh water.

The other issue that came up several times....if you have chosen to directly
fiberglass over the original planking...then be prepared for the fiberglass
letting go of the wood due to the oil in the painted wood (even though
sanded, or remove) This of course is not good and can lead to a sunken
boat.

Good luck,

Marshall

---------
seems like using polyester resin on wood often fails (disbonds) in about 8-12
years - that is my personal experience and that of my customers. Think one must
use epoxy and not polyester resin for long bond life.

paul oman

We used epoxy resin, not polyester. dont worry




On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:50:59 GMT, Paul Oman
wrote:

MarshallE wrote:

"Paul Oman" wrote in message
...
okey dokey wrote:

Okay, how much do you think it would cost to replank the hull? all
planks?

The reason we did the outside is for our peace of mind. you see, when
we got the boat there were some holes in the hull about a foot to two
feet long and about 1/2 foot wide. We figured that it would be easier
to patch the holes instead of replanking the whole thing.. we cut
around it untill we got to good wood (no rot) \, then made wood
patches (1/2" planks cut to size) that fit there and used epoxy and
woodflour putty to glue them in place. I know this is supposed to be
strong enough but my father had his doubts so we put one layer on just
incase there was some small hole we had overlooked, trying to "cover
our asses" (no pun intended).
I am against putting the sealant inside the hull because i feel that
what we have done is enough but he is insisting so i posted the
question.

The boat is in fresh water, on dry dock now for a year and a half, and
some water does get in the bilge via a leaky deck when it rains but
the plug is out of the hull and the water drains as fast as it enters.
fixing the deck is the next chore.
Last time i was at the boat (last october) we had gotten rid of all of
the rot damage and had patched where it had been via method above.

As you can tell we are first time boatworkers learning as we are going
and seeing as we picked the boat up for 2000 it seemed a pretty cheap
boat to learn on.

so... saying that, please..... ANY suggestions anyone has about the
hull and also the upcoming fixing of the deck are welcome and
appreciated.

I will have pictures up on a website within the next month for anyone
interested seeing just what i am talking about.
Thank you very much.
-Jason.

On 2 Apr 2005 05:56:54 -0800, wrote:

-------------
HELLO

keep in mind the wood expands and contracts based on moisture and epoxy or
polyester resin expands and contracts due to temp. The two will work
against
each other unless you completely encase the wood with the resin thus
keeping
all moisture away from the wood. Also - I suggest a flexible epoxy so that
it can 'move' with the wood.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers


Hi,

My boat is fully fiberglassed over wood. The job was done back in the mid
80's and surveyed/sounded well over the entire hull both below and above the
water line.

What I have heard....there are only two good ways to glass an older wood
boat.
*C-Flex....process of rubber mastic to the wood, large quantity of fiber
rods run the length of the boat and then glassed

*Repair the original wood planking and remove all paint, add 1/2" new marine
grade plywood at 45 degree to keel. Add fiberglass....at least 3 layers.

No one I have spoken to advised glassing both sides of the planking. The
wood needs to breathe and be exposed to air flow. I have been told that
covering both sides normally results in rot. I have also been told to add
salt to the bilge water if boat is kept in fresh water.

The other issue that came up several times....if you have chosen to directly
fiberglass over the original planking...then be prepared for the fiberglass
letting go of the wood due to the oil in the painted wood (even though
sanded, or remove) This of course is not good and can lead to a sunken
boat.

Good luck,

Marshall

---------
seems like using polyester resin on wood often fails (disbonds) in about 8-12
years - that is my personal experience and that of my customers. Think one must
use epoxy and not polyester resin for long bond life.

paul oman