traditional treatment is 50% kerosene and 50% linseed oil. I use 50% paint
thinner on my small boats instead of kerosene. The kerosenes is supposed
to kill microbes as well as thin the oil so it soaks into wood, cracks,
etc. You're supposed to wipe off any excess oil after 1/2 hour. No problem
for me on small open plywood boats. I usually brush it on and work it into
any seams, two coats on successve days.

okey dokey ) writes:
Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.


--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned

It should be pointed out that "encapsulation" of a wood hull should be
done when first built, 3 applications of epoxy resin recommended, when the
wood is clean and dry. Even then there is some disagreement on susequent
absorbtion of water through abraisions, etc. But for an older boat any
attempt to seal the inside of the hull also seals in dirt, microbes and
moisture, all of which can cause problems and spread under the sealant.
With the an older decked over wood sailboat I owned (monocoque mahogony
strip) I applied a coat of thinned linseed oil with a stiff brush every
second year on the advice of the builder who insisted wood needs to
"breathe".

It's a lot like trying to prevent rust on a car. Any aftermarket rust
treatmenmt should be done at time of purchase. Otherwise annual underbody
treatment with oil is effective, some think moreso.


--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned

I have used this approach on a traditional built garden shed.

But I was disappointed to read that this kind of "varnish"
is all but ineffective for waterproofing wood.

It does better on the interiors of sealed steel pipes, because of the
oxygen take up of raw linseed, apparently.

Brian W


On 28 Mar 2005 13:51:10 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:


traditional treatment is 50% kerosene and 50% linseed oil. I use 50% paint
thinner on my small boats instead of kerosene. The kerosenes is supposed
to kill microbes as well as thin the oil so it soaks into wood, cracks,
etc. You're supposed to wipe off any excess oil after 1/2 hour. No problem
for me on small open plywood boats. I usually brush it on and work it into
any seams, two coats on successve days.

okey dokey ) writes:
Hi, We just finished putting a layer of fibreglass on our 1973 Carver
Mariner 28' (wood) below the waterline, but I am looking for a product
or something (liquid) that i can pour or spray into the inside of the
hull that will seal the hull from the inside, is CHEAPER than using
epoxy, and will be very easy to apply. I am hoping it will settle
into all of the gaps and spaces that may be present in the hull that i
can't see or get too without removing the interior components of the
cabin.

Anyone have any suggestions? tar maybe? lol.
Thanks for your help,
-Jay.