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#11
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#12
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Stephen Baker wrote: Wayne B says: I've found that the secret to backing a sailboat is to give it a quick burst of reverse power while still in open water. Get enough speed in reverse, usually 1 or 2 knots will suffice, that you have water flowing over the keel and rudder. At that point, take the engine out of gear and let the boat coast backward under its own momentum. It should now respond to steering just as if you were moving forward. I find the best way is to get the "going forward" part just right, so that reverse is used only to take way off the boat so you can step gently onto the pierhead with your bow/stern line at the perfect moment. An admiring audience of curvaceous females who appreciate the art never hurts here. It doesn't always work like that in practice, however... ;-) Steve When docking a boat, head into the dock, a kick ahead on the engine, is used for: 1. To increase/decrease rudder effectiveness. 2. To increase headway ...... a kick astern is used for: 1. To make use of prop walk in steering 2. To reduce headway When docking a boat, stern first into the dock, a kick astern on the engine is used for: 1. To make use of propwalk to increase/decrease rate of turn. 2. To increase sternway ...... a kick ahead is used for: 1. To make use of the rudder to move the stern opposite to the direction of the propwalk. 2. To decrease sternway. Notice, I'm saying a "kick" ahead/astern. Any use of the throttle, means you screwed up the docking, 90% of the time, for one reason or another (misread wind/current/turning rate/speed). Are these rules written in stone? HELL NO!!! These are basic rules, to work WITH, to think about as you maneuver, so you have a basis to judge how well your maneuver went. If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast (NOTE, I said PROBABLY). The most important line you will PROBABLY use when docking, is a spring line (either the "fwd after spring" or the "aft forward spring") which should be run from a point 1/3rd of the way aft of the bow, to a point midships, or 1/3rd of the way fwd of the stern, to a point midships, but only if necessary, right AT the bow or stern. Let the games begin!! otn |
#13
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BTW, I forgot to mention:
When handling a boat, there's a Right Way, a Wrong Way, and Your Way. For the vast majority of boat handlers, they have a specific boat that they handle at (generally) specific locations, under specific conditions, and they learn a way to handle this boat, that works for them under those conditions. The point being, most of us don't get to do too many dockings or undockings during a short season, so that we have to rely on what we experience for our particular boat and conditions. There is nothing wrong with this. The BEST way to handle your boat, is the way which works best for you...... my comments just tend to delve deeper into the subject. |
#14
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otnmbrd says:
snip If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast (NOTE, I said PROBABLY). You're a stinkpotter, aren't you? ;-) Steve |
#15
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On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 00:09:08 GMT, otnmbrd
wrote: If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast ===================================== That's what everyone always says right up until I put the boat right where I want it, the first time. (sailboats only please, big rudder, big keel, etc.) |
#16
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Stephen Baker wrote: otnmbrd says: snip If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast (NOTE, I said PROBABLY). You're a stinkpotter, aren't you? ;-) Steve G Nowadays, but not always, so that argument don't fly |
#17
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Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 00:09:08 GMT, otnmbrd wrote: If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast ===================================== That's what everyone always says right up until I put the boat right where I want it, the first time. (sailboats only please, big rudder, big keel, etc.) If it works, use it ..... any comments I make, are directed more to the person having a problem or not understanding why something may be giving him trouble. otn |
#18
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If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder
(even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast ===================================== That's what everyone always says right up until I put the boat right where I want it, the first time. (sailboats only please, big rudder, big keel, etc.) This is simply not true. The problem with backing single screw or non-counter rotating twins is often interprted as have the ability to turn only one way or the boat won't go straight back. This is caused by Prop Walk. To gain or maintane stearage when backing your drive line must be in neutral. Don't try to power backwards instead think of the power as a push. Short spurts of power in reverse then retuning to neutral and glideing on the push will give you control in either direction. Try it the next time your on the boat. John |
#19
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On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 00:42:11 GMT, "John Cassara"
wrote: Short spurts of power in reverse then retuning to neutral and glideing on the push will give you control in either direction. Try it the next time your on the boat. ======================= Absolutely correct, at least for sailboats with a big rudder. |
#20
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Sorry. Kinda long
John Cassara wrote: If you are moving astern, fast enough to have steering with your rudder (even on a sailboat) you are probably moving astern too fast ===================================== That's what everyone always says right up until I put the boat right where I want it, the first time. (sailboats only please, big rudder, big keel, etc.) This is simply not true. The problem with backing single screw or non-counter rotating twins is often interprted as have the ability to turn only one way or the boat won't go straight back. This is caused by Prop Walk. To gain or maintane stearage when backing your drive line must be in neutral. Don't try to power backwards instead think of the power as a push. Short spurts of power in reverse then retuning to neutral and glideing on the push will give you control in either direction. Try it the next time your on the boat. John One quick point before the main thrust .... There are very few twin screw inboards that are not "counter rotating", and the term "counter rotating" does not tell you what you need to know, because twin screw with "inboard turning", generally handle totally differently than twin screw with "outboard turning" props (both are "counter rotating"). To the main thrust ..... Overall, I don't disagree with what you're saying, but the speed you will need to use, will vary greatly between various power boats, sail boats, and powerboats/sailboats and this can cause problems. For powerboats, because of various rudder sizes and shapes, you may get good steering at slow speeds, to, no steering at any speeds. When I go aboard a single screw powerboat, I'll know what direction the prop turns (let's say right hand) and what to expect there, but I won't generally know what kind of rudder power I might have, so, to begin with the rudder stays midships or hard left (G sometimes I have a feeling) so that when backing, a kick astern turns my stern to port and a kick ahead (with the hard left) turns my stern to stbd. Once I figure out the rudder power astern, I can alter this to suit the boat, which could, and has, easily concurred with what you say above. On a sailboat, I normally figure I will have reasonably good rudder power, and one thing I seriously look at is ... tiller or pedestal steering. G My Contessa had tiller steering. Get that boat moving astern and you almost immediately had steering, but get it moving too fast and it took two men and a boy to hold the tiller so as to not "over steer", i.e., very little rudder for big results ..... pedestal steering tends to alleviate this... at least, that's MY experience. All this brings up a point. Steering astern, tends to be different than steering ahead. In many cases, if you have enough stern way to steer, you can easily get to a point where more than minimum rudder will give a strong shear which may be hard to correct or counter (phew, I'll use my Contessa as a prime example) and simply shifting the rudder may not be sufficient to counter this shear or turning rate fast enough to solve the problem, without the use of the engine..... hence, keep the speed down to a point where you can easily use kicks ahead (with rudder)/astern, to steer. Once again, boats vary, operators vary, conditions vary. My main point is that you need to learn your boat, your own, and the conditions variables . Use what works for you, but make sure you have a Plan B,C, etc., and don't be afraid to experiment. otn |
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