I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have read it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but braking seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can be had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the sides in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat for rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how does the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and welded pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for them (if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that hires out)?

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15*pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have read it.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 08:07:17 -0800 (PST), Bob La Londe
wrote:

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have read
it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but braking
seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can be
had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some
cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the sides
in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat for
rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how does
the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and welded
pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for them
(if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that hires
out)?

Bob, you probably know this but sheet aluminum has a "grain" and
bending with the grain is different then bending across the grain.
Also aluminum bends are not sharp 90 degree bends but have a small
radius and require a "bend allowance" for this radius. Depending on
hardness of the aluminum you can make sharper bends across the grain
then parallel with the grain (without cracking, that is :-)

I would assume that you would have at least a bench brake, with say 36
inch capacity, if you were going to start building an aluminum boat,
and depending of course on the design I would look around for a sheet
metal business that might have a brake large enough to make any long
bends as it will certainly make of a nicer looking finished project.

I'm not really a tin-bender but I believe that there are brakes that
will allow bending only part of a piece so that you can bends say 24
inches then slide the work and another 24, etc. Try google "box and
pan brake".

You an bend aluminum sheet by clamping it to a male "mold" that has
the correct angle and a radius for the allowance and then bending or
hammering. Or you could build a "press brake" die which is a vee
shaped female die and a matching vee shaped male die - with built in
clearance - these will bend up to 90 degrees, or less, depending on
how deep the male penetrates the female die.

Lastly, (again as you may know) soft aluminum distorts extremely
easily and it is easy to fall into the trap of bending something a bit
wrong and thinking "Oh, I'll just straighten it out", only to discover
that the aluminum just grew a little longer where you bent it.

I suspect that bending up a pirogue might be fairly easy but one you
your 900 HP Bass Boats will be a bit difficult.

Oh. Yes, try to find a copy of "How to building a tin canoe" if you
possibly can. It is a great boating book and does have instructions
for building a boat out of galvanized iron :-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks. I will see if I can find a copy of that book. No this
application is not for a 900HP bass boat. LOL. Think 16-20 HP mud
motor. Purpose built shallow water brush country beaver dam jumping
mud boat. As light as possible and still make it home... mostly in
one piece.

P.S. The motor on my big bass boat only puts out somewhere between
250 and 270 at the prop shaft. (Depends on the temperature and
humidity.)

Bob

Bob, Obviously I was being a bit facetious with the 900 H.P. but after
all I'm a guy that's sitting in my 8 ft. punt with the 2 H.P motor
watching the bass boys roar by :-)


Oh! Well in that case I can brag about how fast my bass boat is... unless
one of those Bullet or Allison guys is within earshot. LOL.

Seriously. If conditions are ideal I can hit mid to high 70s (MPH), and I
can run 70+ under most conditions. I usually run in the mid 60s and my
motor sounds like its loafing. Same motor on a 20' Bullet will run high
80s, and on a 20' Allison they can hit 90. Faster on one of the old Allys,
but its to heavy for them.

Right now I want something that will do 15-20 with just me and my gear in
shallow stump infested beaver dam addled feeder streams. I can run them in
my canoe, but I have to get out and drag my canoe over the beaver dams. My
feet actually got wet out duck hunting yesterday. I couldn't take the cold
after 6 or 7 hours. Brrrrrrr.... It only warmed up to the low 70s (F)
yesterday. LOL. Actually it was a pretty nice day on the water wet feet
and all. Sadly I only plugged three of them pesky little entrees, and I
lost one in the brush. You should have seen me wading through the cat tails
chasing one little green wing teal that just wouldn't die.

Bob

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 19:29:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 08:07:17 -0800 (PST), Bob La Londe
wrote:

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have
read
it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but braking
seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big
enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water
boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can be
had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some
cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the
keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the
sides
in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat
for
rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how
does
the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and welded
pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for
them
(if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that hires
out)?

Bob, you probably know this but sheet aluminum has a "grain" and
bending with the grain is different then bending across the grain.
Also aluminum bends are not sharp 90 degree bends but have a small
radius and require a "bend allowance" for this radius. Depending on
hardness of the aluminum you can make sharper bends across the grain
then parallel with the grain (without cracking, that is :-)

I would assume that you would have at least a bench brake, with say 36
inch capacity, if you were going to start building an aluminum boat,
and depending of course on the design I would look around for a sheet
metal business that might have a brake large enough to make any long
bends as it will certainly make of a nicer looking finished project.

I'm not really a tin-bender but I believe that there are brakes that
will allow bending only part of a piece so that you can bends say 24
inches then slide the work and another 24, etc. Try google "box and
pan brake".

You an bend aluminum sheet by clamping it to a male "mold" that has
the correct angle and a radius for the allowance and then bending or
hammering. Or you could build a "press brake" die which is a vee
shaped female die and a matching vee shaped male die - with built in
clearance - these will bend up to 90 degrees, or less, depending on
how deep the male penetrates the female die.

Lastly, (again as you may know) soft aluminum distorts extremely
easily and it is easy to fall into the trap of bending something a bit
wrong and thinking "Oh, I'll just straighten it out", only to discover
that the aluminum just grew a little longer where you bent it.

I suspect that bending up a pirogue might be fairly easy but one you
your 900 HP Bass Boats will be a bit difficult.

Oh. Yes, try to find a copy of "How to building a tin canoe" if you
possibly can. It is a great boating book and does have instructions
for building a boat out of galvanized iron :-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks. I will see if I can find a copy of that book. No this
application is not for a 900HP bass boat. LOL. Think 16-20 HP mud
motor. Purpose built shallow water brush country beaver dam jumping
mud boat. As light as possible and still make it home... mostly in
one piece.

P.S. The motor on my big bass boat only puts out somewhere between
250 and 270 at the prop shaft. (Depends on the temperature and
humidity.)

Bob

Bob, Obviously I was being a bit facetious with the 900 H.P. but after
all I'm a guy that's sitting in my 8 ft. punt with the 2 H.P motor
watching the bass boys roar by :-)


Oh! Well in that case I can brag about how fast my bass boat is...
unless
one of those Bullet or Allison guys is within earshot. LOL.

Seriously. If conditions are ideal I can hit mid to high 70s (MPH), and I
can run 70+ under most conditions. I usually run in the mid 60s and my
motor sounds like its loafing. Same motor on a 20' Bullet will run high
80s, and on a 20' Allison they can hit 90. Faster on one of the old
Allys,
but its to heavy for them.

Right now I want something that will do 15-20 with just me and my gear in
shallow stump infested beaver dam addled feeder streams. I can run them
in
my canoe, but I have to get out and drag my canoe over the beaver dams.
My
feet actually got wet out duck hunting yesterday. I couldn't take the
cold
after 6 or 7 hours. Brrrrrrr.... It only warmed up to the low 70s (F)
yesterday. LOL. Actually it was a pretty nice day on the water wet feet
and all. Sadly I only plugged three of them pesky little entrees, and I
lost one in the brush. You should have seen me wading through the cat
tails
chasing one little green wing teal that just wouldn't die.

Bob



It appears that you may be taking unfair advantage of the ducks....
after all, they get their feet wet :-)

But more seriously, don't you people use dogs?

I don't have the time and patience (mostly the time) to keep a good dog. A
couple of my buddies have dogs, but only one that will work at hunting (the
buddy not the dog), and he lost his dog a few months ago to some kind of
arterial disease. He is making plenty of noise about me helping him train
the new puppy though. He's pretty worked up about it. Losing the old dog,
and about getting the new puppy. He picks it up this weekend.

Its going to be pretty hard to top his old dog though. Last summer we
boated into some back waters to do some fishing and we were wading back even
further were the boat wouldn't go. I has in some chest deep water fishing
when Hunter (my buddy's dog) decided I should not be there. He swam circles
around me trying to herd me to the bank. When I wouldn't cooperate he swam
over to the bank, grabbed a big stick in his mouth, came back, and tried to
get me to grab onto it. It was pretty cool. I was fine, but I hurried up
to shallow water so he wouldn't exhaust himself trying to rescue me. LOL.

Bob La Londe
P.S. I live in the desert. LOL.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 18:36:17 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 19:29:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
m...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 08:07:17 -0800 (PST), Bob La Londe
wrote:

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have
read
it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but
braking
seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big
enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water
boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can
be
had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some
cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the
keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the
sides
in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat
for
rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that
big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how
does
the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and
welded
pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for
them
(if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that
hires
out)?

Bob, you probably know this but sheet aluminum has a "grain" and
bending with the grain is different then bending across the grain.
Also aluminum bends are not sharp 90 degree bends but have a small
radius and require a "bend allowance" for this radius. Depending on
hardness of the aluminum you can make sharper bends across the grain
then parallel with the grain (without cracking, that is :-)

I would assume that you would have at least a bench brake, with say
36
inch capacity, if you were going to start building an aluminum
boat,
and depending of course on the design I would look around for a
sheet
metal business that might have a brake large enough to make any long
bends as it will certainly make of a nicer looking finished project.

I'm not really a tin-bender but I believe that there are brakes that
will allow bending only part of a piece so that you can bends say 24
inches then slide the work and another 24, etc. Try google "box and
pan brake".

You an bend aluminum sheet by clamping it to a male "mold" that has
the correct angle and a radius for the allowance and then bending or
hammering. Or you could build a "press brake" die which is a vee
shaped female die and a matching vee shaped male die - with built in
clearance - these will bend up to 90 degrees, or less, depending on
how deep the male penetrates the female die.

Lastly, (again as you may know) soft aluminum distorts extremely
easily and it is easy to fall into the trap of bending something a
bit
wrong and thinking "Oh, I'll just straighten it out", only to
discover
that the aluminum just grew a little longer where you bent it.

I suspect that bending up a pirogue might be fairly easy but one you
your 900 HP Bass Boats will be a bit difficult.

Oh. Yes, try to find a copy of "How to building a tin canoe" if you
possibly can. It is a great boating book and does have instructions
for building a boat out of galvanized iron :-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks. I will see if I can find a copy of that book. No this
application is not for a 900HP bass boat. LOL. Think 16-20 HP mud
motor. Purpose built shallow water brush country beaver dam jumping
mud boat. As light as possible and still make it home... mostly in
one piece.

P.S. The motor on my big bass boat only puts out somewhere between
250 and 270 at the prop shaft. (Depends on the temperature and
humidity.)

Bob

Bob, Obviously I was being a bit facetious with the 900 H.P. but after
all I'm a guy that's sitting in my 8 ft. punt with the 2 H.P motor
watching the bass boys roar by :-)


Oh! Well in that case I can brag about how fast my bass boat is...
unless
one of those Bullet or Allison guys is within earshot. LOL.

Seriously. If conditions are ideal I can hit mid to high 70s (MPH), and
I
can run 70+ under most conditions. I usually run in the mid 60s and my
motor sounds like its loafing. Same motor on a 20' Bullet will run high
80s, and on a 20' Allison they can hit 90. Faster on one of the old
Allys,
but its to heavy for them.

Right now I want something that will do 15-20 with just me and my gear
in
shallow stump infested beaver dam addled feeder streams. I can run them
in
my canoe, but I have to get out and drag my canoe over the beaver dams.
My
feet actually got wet out duck hunting yesterday. I couldn't take the
cold
after 6 or 7 hours. Brrrrrrr.... It only warmed up to the low 70s (F)
yesterday. LOL. Actually it was a pretty nice day on the water wet
feet
and all. Sadly I only plugged three of them pesky little entrees, and I
lost one in the brush. You should have seen me wading through the cat
tails
chasing one little green wing teal that just wouldn't die.

Bob



It appears that you may be taking unfair advantage of the ducks....
after all, they get their feet wet :-)

But more seriously, don't you people use dogs?

I don't have the time and patience (mostly the time) to keep a good dog.
A
couple of my buddies have dogs, but only one that will work at hunting
(the
buddy not the dog), and he lost his dog a few months ago to some kind of
arterial disease. He is making plenty of noise about me helping him train
the new puppy though. He's pretty worked up about it. Losing the old
dog,
and about getting the new puppy. He picks it up this weekend.

Its going to be pretty hard to top his old dog though. Last summer we
boated into some back waters to do some fishing and we were wading back
even
further were the boat wouldn't go. I has in some chest deep water fishing
when Hunter (my buddy's dog) decided I should not be there. He swam
circles
around me trying to herd me to the bank. When I wouldn't cooperate he
swam
over to the bank, grabbed a big stick in his mouth, came back, and tried
to
get me to grab onto it. It was pretty cool. I was fine, but I hurried up
to shallow water so he wouldn't exhaust himself trying to rescue me. LOL.

Bob La Londe
P.S. I live in the desert. LOL.


Somehow from reading you posts I had assumed that you were from
Georgia, Alabama or maybe S. Louisiana :=)

Dey's got alligators, water moccasins, an' snappin' turtles in dem places.
You wouldn't find me in the water there, no way, no how. Probably have a
hard time getting me in a small boat there.

G

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 18:36:17 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 19:29:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
om...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 08:07:17 -0800 (PST), Bob La Londe
wrote:

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have
read
it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but
braking
seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big
enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water
boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can
be
had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some
cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the
keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the
sides
in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat
for
rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that
big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how
does
the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and
welded
pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for
them
(if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that
hires
out)?

Bob, you probably know this but sheet aluminum has a "grain" and
bending with the grain is different then bending across the grain.
Also aluminum bends are not sharp 90 degree bends but have a small
radius and require a "bend allowance" for this radius. Depending on
hardness of the aluminum you can make sharper bends across the
grain
then parallel with the grain (without cracking, that is :-)

I would assume that you would have at least a bench brake, with say
36
inch capacity, if you were going to start building an aluminum
boat,
and depending of course on the design I would look around for a
sheet
metal business that might have a brake large enough to make any
long
bends as it will certainly make of a nicer looking finished
project.

I'm not really a tin-bender but I believe that there are brakes
that
will allow bending only part of a piece so that you can bends say
24
inches then slide the work and another 24, etc. Try google "box and
pan brake".

You an bend aluminum sheet by clamping it to a male "mold" that has
the correct angle and a radius for the allowance and then bending
or
hammering. Or you could build a "press brake" die which is a vee
shaped female die and a matching vee shaped male die - with built
in
clearance - these will bend up to 90 degrees, or less, depending on
how deep the male penetrates the female die.

Lastly, (again as you may know) soft aluminum distorts extremely
easily and it is easy to fall into the trap of bending something a
bit
wrong and thinking "Oh, I'll just straighten it out", only to
discover
that the aluminum just grew a little longer where you bent it.

I suspect that bending up a pirogue might be fairly easy but one
you
your 900 HP Bass Boats will be a bit difficult.

Oh. Yes, try to find a copy of "How to building a tin canoe" if you
possibly can. It is a great boating book and does have instructions
for building a boat out of galvanized iron :-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks. I will see if I can find a copy of that book. No this
application is not for a 900HP bass boat. LOL. Think 16-20 HP mud
motor. Purpose built shallow water brush country beaver dam jumping
mud boat. As light as possible and still make it home... mostly in
one piece.

P.S. The motor on my big bass boat only puts out somewhere between
250 and 270 at the prop shaft. (Depends on the temperature and
humidity.)

Bob

Bob, Obviously I was being a bit facetious with the 900 H.P. but
after
all I'm a guy that's sitting in my 8 ft. punt with the 2 H.P motor
watching the bass boys roar by :-)


Oh! Well in that case I can brag about how fast my bass boat is...
unless
one of those Bullet or Allison guys is within earshot. LOL.

Seriously. If conditions are ideal I can hit mid to high 70s (MPH),
and I
can run 70+ under most conditions. I usually run in the mid 60s and my
motor sounds like its loafing. Same motor on a 20' Bullet will run
high
80s, and on a 20' Allison they can hit 90. Faster on one of the old
Allys,
but its to heavy for them.

Right now I want something that will do 15-20 with just me and my gear
in
shallow stump infested beaver dam addled feeder streams. I can run
them
in
my canoe, but I have to get out and drag my canoe over the beaver dams.
My
feet actually got wet out duck hunting yesterday. I couldn't take the
cold
after 6 or 7 hours. Brrrrrrr.... It only warmed up to the low 70s (F)
yesterday. LOL. Actually it was a pretty nice day on the water wet
feet
and all. Sadly I only plugged three of them pesky little entrees, and
I
lost one in the brush. You should have seen me wading through the cat
tails
chasing one little green wing teal that just wouldn't die.

Bob



It appears that you may be taking unfair advantage of the ducks....
after all, they get their feet wet :-)

But more seriously, don't you people use dogs?

I don't have the time and patience (mostly the time) to keep a good dog.
A
couple of my buddies have dogs, but only one that will work at hunting
(the
buddy not the dog), and he lost his dog a few months ago to some kind of
arterial disease. He is making plenty of noise about me helping him
train
the new puppy though. He's pretty worked up about it. Losing the old
dog,
and about getting the new puppy. He picks it up this weekend.

Its going to be pretty hard to top his old dog though. Last summer we
boated into some back waters to do some fishing and we were wading back
even
further were the boat wouldn't go. I has in some chest deep water
fishing
when Hunter (my buddy's dog) decided I should not be there. He swam
circles
around me trying to herd me to the bank. When I wouldn't cooperate he
swam
over to the bank, grabbed a big stick in his mouth, came back, and tried
to
get me to grab onto it. It was pretty cool. I was fine, but I hurried
up
to shallow water so he wouldn't exhaust himself trying to rescue me.
LOL.

Bob La Londe
P.S. I live in the desert. LOL.


Somehow from reading you posts I had assumed that you were from
Georgia, Alabama or maybe S. Louisiana :=)

Dey's got alligators, water moccasins, an' snappin' turtles in dem places.
You wouldn't find me in the water there, no way, no how. Probably have a
hard time getting me in a small boat there.

G



Reminds of the first time I took one of my buddies from North Carolina
backwater fishing here. The water had fallen while we were fishing and the
boat wouldn't make it over a couple shallow spots in the channel to get back
to where we launched. I was familiar with the area so I just stepped off
the front of the boat into the water and dragged it over the shallow spots.
He just about freaked out. They have some of those nasty aggressive bitey
poisonous critters that hang out in the water were he grew up.

We are getting a little off topic aren't we... LOL. To bring it back on
topic, I just welded in a patch on that boat.

On 12/30/2011 12:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have read
it. It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded. That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but
braking seems like it would make more sense if you have access to a
brake big enough. Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft
skinny water boats) would really benefit from a mostly bent hull.
Aluminum sheet can be had in pieces large enough to make most of a hull
out of one sheet. Some cutting and welding is still needed obviously,
but if you could brake the keel, chines, and bottom of the transom only
welding the front and the sides in the back you would have an inherently
stronger and more rigid boat for rough service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how does
the backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and welded
pieces, or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it
for them (if there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area
that hires out)?

there's a lot of good knowledge in rec.crafts.metalworking that might
help with this topic.

On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 11:08:18 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 18:36:17 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 19:29:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
om...
On Sun, 1 Jan 2012 08:07:17 -0800 (PST), Bob La Londe
wrote:

On Dec 30 2011, 6:15 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:22:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have
read
it.
It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded.
That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but
braking
seems
like it would make more sense if you have access to a brake big
enough.
Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft skinny water
boats)
would really benefit from a mostly bent hull. Aluminum sheet can
be
had in
pieces large enough to make most of a hull out of one sheet. Some
cutting
and welding is still needed obviously, but if you could brake the
keel,
chines, and bottom of the transom only welding the front and the
sides
in
the back you would have an inherently stronger and more rigid boat
for
rough
service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that
big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how
does
the
backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and
welded
pieces,
or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it for
them
(if
there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area that
hires
out)?

Bob, you probably know this but sheet aluminum has a "grain" and
bending with the grain is different then bending across the grain.
Also aluminum bends are not sharp 90 degree bends but have a small
radius and require a "bend allowance" for this radius. Depending on
hardness of the aluminum you can make sharper bends across the grain
then parallel with the grain (without cracking, that is :-)

I would assume that you would have at least a bench brake, with say
36
inch capacity, if you were going to start building an aluminum
boat,
and depending of course on the design I would look around for a
sheet
metal business that might have a brake large enough to make any long
bends as it will certainly make of a nicer looking finished project.

I'm not really a tin-bender but I believe that there are brakes that
will allow bending only part of a piece so that you can bends say 24
inches then slide the work and another 24, etc. Try google "box and
pan brake".

You an bend aluminum sheet by clamping it to a male "mold" that has
the correct angle and a radius for the allowance and then bending or
hammering. Or you could build a "press brake" die which is a vee
shaped female die and a matching vee shaped male die - with built in
clearance - these will bend up to 90 degrees, or less, depending on
how deep the male penetrates the female die.

Lastly, (again as you may know) soft aluminum distorts extremely
easily and it is easy to fall into the trap of bending something a
bit
wrong and thinking "Oh, I'll just straighten it out", only to
discover
that the aluminum just grew a little longer where you bent it.

I suspect that bending up a pirogue might be fairly easy but one you
your 900 HP Bass Boats will be a bit difficult.

Oh. Yes, try to find a copy of "How to building a tin canoe" if you
possibly can. It is a great boating book and does have instructions
for building a boat out of galvanized iron :-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks. I will see if I can find a copy of that book. No this
application is not for a 900HP bass boat. LOL. Think 16-20 HP mud
motor. Purpose built shallow water brush country beaver dam jumping
mud boat. As light as possible and still make it home... mostly in
one piece.

P.S. The motor on my big bass boat only puts out somewhere between
250 and 270 at the prop shaft. (Depends on the temperature and
humidity.)

Bob

Bob, Obviously I was being a bit facetious with the 900 H.P. but after
all I'm a guy that's sitting in my 8 ft. punt with the 2 H.P motor
watching the bass boys roar by :-)


Oh! Well in that case I can brag about how fast my bass boat is...
unless
one of those Bullet or Allison guys is within earshot. LOL.

Seriously. If conditions are ideal I can hit mid to high 70s (MPH), and
I
can run 70+ under most conditions. I usually run in the mid 60s and my
motor sounds like its loafing. Same motor on a 20' Bullet will run high
80s, and on a 20' Allison they can hit 90. Faster on one of the old
Allys,
but its to heavy for them.

Right now I want something that will do 15-20 with just me and my gear
in
shallow stump infested beaver dam addled feeder streams. I can run them
in
my canoe, but I have to get out and drag my canoe over the beaver dams.
My
feet actually got wet out duck hunting yesterday. I couldn't take the
cold
after 6 or 7 hours. Brrrrrrr.... It only warmed up to the low 70s (F)
yesterday. LOL. Actually it was a pretty nice day on the water wet
feet
and all. Sadly I only plugged three of them pesky little entrees, and I
lost one in the brush. You should have seen me wading through the cat
tails
chasing one little green wing teal that just wouldn't die.

Bob



It appears that you may be taking unfair advantage of the ducks....
after all, they get their feet wet :-)

But more seriously, don't you people use dogs?

I don't have the time and patience (mostly the time) to keep a good dog.
A
couple of my buddies have dogs, but only one that will work at hunting
(the
buddy not the dog), and he lost his dog a few months ago to some kind of
arterial disease. He is making plenty of noise about me helping him train
the new puppy though. He's pretty worked up about it. Losing the old
dog,
and about getting the new puppy. He picks it up this weekend.

Its going to be pretty hard to top his old dog though. Last summer we
boated into some back waters to do some fishing and we were wading back
even
further were the boat wouldn't go. I has in some chest deep water fishing
when Hunter (my buddy's dog) decided I should not be there. He swam
circles
around me trying to herd me to the bank. When I wouldn't cooperate he
swam
over to the bank, grabbed a big stick in his mouth, came back, and tried
to
get me to grab onto it. It was pretty cool. I was fine, but I hurried up
to shallow water so he wouldn't exhaust himself trying to rescue me. LOL.

Bob La Londe
P.S. I live in the desert. LOL.


Somehow from reading you posts I had assumed that you were from
Georgia, Alabama or maybe S. Louisiana :=)

Dey's got alligators, water moccasins, an' snappin' turtles in dem places.
You wouldn't find me in the water there, no way, no how. Probably have a
hard time getting me in a small boat there.

G


Oh, when the alligators would ease into the water, I'd ease out.
Growing up on a rice farm, killing water moccasins was an almost daily
occurrence. I was only struck good once, on my rubber boot. They
strike hard when you're standing on them.

My grandmother drove a stepside Chevy and had keys to most reservoirs
around. Raised her own minnows and fished almost every day until her
stroke at 80. There was a 13' alligator at the little res she named
"George". Talked to him while she fished. He was so used to her, he
would just lie there sunning. She didn't wade, fished off the bank.
Grandma died about 1990. Great lady, and a hell of a shot.

Pete Keillor

"chaniarts" wrote in message
...
On 12/30/2011 12:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I have a copy of Pollards aluminum boat building book, and I have read
it. It looks like he mostly plans on boats to be all cut pieces and
welded. That's great for big boats or even for some small boats, but
braking seems like it would make more sense if you have access to a
brake big enough. Some of the small boat designs (think shallow draft
skinny water boats) would really benefit from a mostly bent hull.
Aluminum sheet can be had in pieces large enough to make most of a hull
out of one sheet. Some cutting and welding is still needed obviously,
but if you could brake the keel, chines, and bottom of the transom only
welding the front and the sides in the back you would have an inherently
stronger and more rigid boat for rough service.

The problem of course is how do you brake a piece of metal that big?

Yeah I know a giant hydraulic brake would be a good answer for the
commercial boat builder once they have the capital for it, but how does
the backyard boat builder do it? Are they stuck with all cut and welded
pieces, or hauling their sheet to somebody with a giant brake to do it
for them (if there even is somebody with a brake big enough in the area
that hires out)?

there's a lot of good knowledge in rec.crafts.metalworking that might help
with this topic.

Thanks. I am a regular in that group, and I got some feedback on this topic
there too.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 11:13:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

We are getting a little off topic aren't we... LOL. To bring it back on
topic, I just welded in a patch on that boat.

Had a buddy that bid on a job to repair some rental boats; lot of
welding. Got the bid and went out and stick welded them all, at a rate
that others had bid for TIG welding. Said the owner got made about it
:-)

I didn't know it was possible/practical to stick weld aluminum. I do it
with a MIG machine and straight argon gas. One of my buddies has a more
expensive pulse MIG, and he can weld about twice as efficiently with it.
Certainly its faster than TIG.


I really hate welding flat aluminum as it warps so bad.

There are tricks. I'm just a hack metal sprayer, but the big one is to make
lots of spaced tack welds when joining sheets and then work back and forth
fill between the tacks, so you aren't building to much heat in any one area.
A pulse MIG is more forgiving in this area, but alas I just have a regular
MIG. Another trick for some problem spots is to stack tack welds. It looks
like it was welded with a TIG that way. The big thing though is brushing
off the oxidized coating with a stainless brush and cleaning any oil off the
metal with alcohol or acetone. Getting back to Pollard. Lots of people
will weld aluminum on a backing of some kind, but I don't know anybody who
welds, back chips, and back welds like he suggests except on some odd
positioning of thicker plate. Back chipping and back welding some of the
thinner stuff commonly used in small boats just isn't practical. I think it
would do more damage than good.