I'm in the process of removing the carpeting inside the cabin of my
sailboat. The manufacturer used carpeting with a foam backing to line
the inside hull as sound and thermal insulation. The problem I found
was that the carpeting pulled out easily but left the foam attached to
the old adhesive on the inside of the hull. I started scraping the
foam off but soon discovered how difficult this is, scraping off the
foam inch by inch.
I was wondering if anyone has run into this problem before and found
a better solution than using a hand scraper. I thought heat gun but
wondered whether I'd poison myself.

As a follow up question, I'm replacing the old carpeting with
Seaquest vinyl fabric. Anyone have any suggestions for the best
adhesive to use. The West Marine catalog lists an adhesive they sell,
but states it's for carpeting. Was wondering if I could use carpet
adhesive or if there's something better.

BTW, the old foam is moldy, it has to come out. I can't just put the
new vinyl over it.

My last boat had a foam backed vinyl on the interior. The foam dried up and
fell apart, resulting in the vinyl falling off, but leaving a coating of
glue and the remnants of the foam on the fiberglass surface. I removed this
residue with a variety of methods. A heat gun worked, as did a thick paint
remover (making sure to scrape off and wash from the fiberglass as quickly
as possible).

I replaced the old with a closed cell foam material. First used solvent
based liquid contact cement, but I think you will find as I did that this
can slightly dissolve vinyl material.

I then discovered a water based contact cement from 3M. IIRC, it was about 3
times as expensive, but was so much thinner that it had maybe twice the
coverage. Fumes were so innocuous...almost could say it smelled good. I
ordered this product from a NAPA store. Gallons only. Get several cheap
brushes as they get gummed up.

wrote in message
...
I'm in the process of removing the carpeting inside the cabin of my
sailboat. The manufacturer used carpeting with a foam backing to line
the inside hull as sound and thermal insulation. The problem I found
was that the carpeting pulled out easily but left the foam attached to
the old adhesive on the inside of the hull. I started scraping the
foam off but soon discovered how difficult this is, scraping off the
foam inch by inch.
I was wondering if anyone has run into this problem before and found
a better solution than using a hand scraper. I thought heat gun but
wondered whether I'd poison myself.

As a follow up question, I'm replacing the old carpeting with
Seaquest vinyl fabric. Anyone have any suggestions for the best
adhesive to use. The West Marine catalog lists an adhesive they sell,
but states it's for carpeting. Was wondering if I could use carpet
adhesive or if there's something better.

BTW, the old foam is moldy, it has to come out. I can't just put the
new vinyl over it.

On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 20:05:36 -0400, "Garland Gray"
wrote:

My last boat had a foam backed vinyl on the interior. The foam dried up and
fell apart, resulting in the vinyl falling off, but leaving a coating of
glue and the remnants of the foam on the fiberglass surface. I removed this
residue with a variety of methods. A heat gun worked, as did a thick paint
remover (making sure to scrape off and wash from the fiberglass as quickly
as possible).

I replaced the old with a closed cell foam material. First used solvent
based liquid contact cement, but I think you will find as I did that this
can slightly dissolve vinyl material.

I then discovered a water based contact cement from 3M. IIRC, it was about 3
times as expensive, but was so much thinner that it had maybe twice the
coverage. Fumes were so innocuous...almost could say it smelled good. I
ordered this product from a NAPA store. Gallons only. Get several cheap
brushes as they get gummed up.

You mention that if used paint remover should be washed off quickly.
Not to argue but I believe that you should emphasis that most common
paint removers will destroy fiberglass and should be used very, very
carefully.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

You are correct.
But I expect there is a major time gap between when the paint rmover will
loosen the old glue and when it will attack the polyester. It certainly
didn't have time to attack the surface I was working on. And was washed off
with water after scraping.
It's been a dozenyears, so I'm a little fuzzy, but I think i may have
removed as much as I could with a heat gun (got to be careful with that as
well), and then cleaned up the remainder with the paint remover.

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 20:05:36 -0400, "Garland Gray"
wrote:

My last boat had a foam backed vinyl on the interior. The foam dried up
and
fell apart, resulting in the vinyl falling off, but leaving a coating of
glue and the remnants of the foam on the fiberglass surface. I removed
this
residue with a variety of methods. A heat gun worked, as did a thick paint
remover (making sure to scrape off and wash from the fiberglass as quickly
as possible).

I replaced the old with a closed cell foam material. First used solvent
based liquid contact cement, but I think you will find as I did that this
can slightly dissolve vinyl material.

I then discovered a water based contact cement from 3M. IIRC, it was about
3
times as expensive, but was so much thinner that it had maybe twice the
coverage. Fumes were so innocuous...almost could say it smelled good. I
ordered this product from a NAPA store. Gallons only. Get several cheap
brushes as they get gummed up.

You mention that if used paint remover should be washed off quickly.
Not to argue but I believe that you should emphasis that most common
paint removers will destroy fiberglass and should be used very, very
carefully.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 23:11:47 -0400, "Garland Gray"
wrote:

You are correct.
But I expect there is a major time gap between when the paint rmover will
loosen the old glue and when it will attack the polyester. It certainly
didn't have time to attack the surface I was working on. And was washed off
with water after scraping.
It's been a dozenyears, so I'm a little fuzzy, but I think i may have
removed as much as I could with a heat gun (got to be careful with that as
well), and then cleaned up the remainder with the paint remover.

I guess that the reason I am rather gun shy about paint remover is my
initial experience with fiberglass. Bought a elderly fiberglass sloop
and, as I would with a wooden boat, proceeded to remove the paint
using paint remover. The first part, a hatch cover, had been soaking
only a short when I "tried it" with a paint scraper and scrapped off
the paint, gel coat, n' everything. Frantic water blasting with the
hose saved the cover but I did need to use a lot of high build primer
before I painted it.

As general information, that you may already know, they now make some
sort of "paint remover" that is safe to use with GRP. You slosh it on
and then cover it with old newspapers. After a while you peel off the
newspapers and the old paint comes with it. Environmentally friendly,
I guess.




"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 20:05:36 -0400, "Garland Gray"
wrote:

My last boat had a foam backed vinyl on the interior. The foam dried up
and
fell apart, resulting in the vinyl falling off, but leaving a coating of
glue and the remnants of the foam on the fiberglass surface. I removed
this
residue with a variety of methods. A heat gun worked, as did a thick paint
remover (making sure to scrape off and wash from the fiberglass as quickly
as possible).

I replaced the old with a closed cell foam material. First used solvent
based liquid contact cement, but I think you will find as I did that this
can slightly dissolve vinyl material.

I then discovered a water based contact cement from 3M. IIRC, it was about
3
times as expensive, but was so much thinner that it had maybe twice the
coverage. Fumes were so innocuous...almost could say it smelled good. I
ordered this product from a NAPA store. Gallons only. Get several cheap
brushes as they get gummed up.

You mention that if used paint remover should be washed off quickly.
Not to argue but I believe that you should emphasis that most common
paint removers will destroy fiberglass and should be used very, very
carefully.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

That's certainly a reason to be cautious.
Perhaps the difference is that the old glue is softened so much quicker by
the paint remover than paint would be, that it can be scraped and washed
long before the polyester resin would be affected.
I wasn't aware of the other paint remover you describe. I'll try to remember
to look for it if I'm ever faced with the need.

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
news
I guess that the reason I am rather gun shy about paint remover is my
initial experience with fiberglass. Bought a elderly fiberglass sloop
and, as I would with a wooden boat, proceeded to remove the paint
using paint remover. The first part, a hatch cover, had been soaking
only a short when I "tried it" with a paint scraper and scrapped off
the paint, gel coat, n' everything. Frantic water blasting with the
hose saved the cover but I did need to use a lot of high build primer
before I painted it.

As general information, that you may already know, they now make some
sort of "paint remover" that is safe to use with GRP. You slosh it on
and then cover it with old newspapers. After a while you peel off the
newspapers and the old paint comes with it. Environmentally friendly,
I guess.