Thanx Max..... Maybe I'll give Epifanes a try this year....

CM


"Maxprop" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message

Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away
for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's
wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood
treatment thread.

There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung
Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe.

What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish?

To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to
produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of
duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results
on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept
a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up
is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture.
Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of
clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work
since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this
year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What
should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or
let the teak go grey?

You're facing the age-old quandary, Cappy: how to get the appearance of a
multi-coat, hand-rubbed varnish finish with the ease of Cetol or oil.

Bottom line: ain't ever gonna happen.

Either use varnish, or get used to something less attractive.

My advice:

1) If you want a varnish finish, start with bare wood and anyone's long
oil varnish thinned to 50% for penetration. Let dry, then sand smooth.
Then apply three thick coats of Epifanes Gloss Wood Finish without sanding
in between. No sanding is necessary, if you apply subsequent coats within
72 hours. And each coat equals two or three coats of long oil varnish.
AND it is completely compatible with varnish, either long oil or urethane
types. You can even alternate coats between varnish and EGWF, provided you
sand after each varnish coat, but not the EGWF coats, not that anyone
would actually do this. But back to the process: now allow the last
(3rd) coat of EGWF to dry, sand very smooth with 150 grit, 220 grit, and
400 wet/dry, and then apply your final coat of long-oil varnish, either
gloss or rubbed-effect (satin). Be sure to refresh the topcoat every year
with one or two coats of varnish, or you'll lose the finish and have to
start from scratch again. Or you can even use the EGWF instead of
varnish--it has just as effective UV filters as most varnish, and better
than some. AND be sure to repair any damage to the finish that penetrates
to the wood immediately.

2. If you want a Cetol finish, sand the wood smooth, then apply three
coats of Cetol Marine without sanding between. That's it, along with
refreshing every years with one coat. Nothing could be easier, but don't
expect a varnish-like appearance.

3. If an oil finish is acceptable, apply two or three coats of reduced
tung oil (pure tung thinned to 50% with mineral spirits), and plan to
re-apply every three months during the summer and at the beginning of each
season. Nice appearance, but requires too much work, IMO.

My pick: Cetol Marine. An acceptable finish if viewed from 10' away or
farther, and it protects the wood nicely. Not for teak decks, however,
unless you enjoy ice skating in the summer.

Max

"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message


Dear Group,

Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of
trim wood on sailboats.

1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are
more
interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this
stupidity with
his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing.
Please note
that this maintenance time is down-time.

So I suppose you consider Lin and Larry Pardey to be stupid for the
continued effort they make to keep their boat in bristol condition,
including frequent brightwork refinishing? You're not fit to eat off the
bilge sole of their boat. They voyaged their earlier 24' boat farther in
one year than you claim to have sailed that 27' bargain-basement Clorox
bottle during your lifetime.

2) If the wood is functional, such as the spreaders on Joe's fine,
blue-water, steel vessel, then, by all means, do take care of this
functional wood in any
manner which preserves it the best. If you like the way several coats
of varnish
looks and don't mind the extra work then use varnish. On the other
hand, if you
are more interested in longevity and protection without the constant
work then
use a quality enamel paint to cover and seal the wood.

Terrible advice. Mahogany isn't teak, and it rots along with the best of
potentially rotting woods. If a load-bearing mahogany or spruce structure,
such as a spar or spreader or tiller, one should NOT hide it under an opaque
coating. Varnish is the ONLY answer for mahogany in order to be able to see
the condition of the wood. No finish is foolproof--wood can and will rot
underneath paint or any other coating. Go back to making love to your
rubber doll, Neal, and leave boat maintenance to those who know something
about it.

3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary and just
makes it so
you need to spend more time maintaining and less time sailing (or
motoring as in the case of DSK). Fools like Doug would rather walk up and
down a dock and criticize the brightwork on other boats and compare it to
theirs than spend time
actually using their boats for the intended purpose which is NOT a
constant, futile, never-ending cycle of brightwork maintenance. Even
allowing his wife
to do the brightwork when Doug states he would rather paint the wood
shows
he is no man.

Well, no one would ever accuse you of being even remotely interested in
having a nice looking boat. Do you paint that cedar bucket?


4) Real sailors replace all wood trim with plastic or they prepare the
wood carefully
one time and then paint it with a quality paint (or they remove it).
If the painted wood is in an area where it can wear (such as foot
traffic, line chafe, etc.), then the wood should be protected with steel.
(Joe is smarter than most of you, face it!)

So, the Pardeys aren't real sailors? Or Olin Stephens? Or L. Frances
Herreshoff? Or hundreds of others with similar credentials? How amusing
for someone with a homely plastic bleach bottle boat to be pronouncing
discredit over those whose sailing credentials are among the ultimate of the
genera.

snip


I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time
varnishing exterior
wood. It is a never-ending waste of time and money. People who spend
any time, whatsoever,
doing their "brightwork" are not sailors but pretenders who show off
their brightwork because they cannot show-off their sailing skills because
they don't have the time to develop any. I find people who have their
priorities all wrong like this totally boring and disgusting.
They impress me about as much as some conceited, fat fool wearing a
bunch of heavy, gold chains around his neck and they share similar
personality traits - all show and no go!
I hope this helps put things in the proper perspective.

*Perverted* is not spelled "p-r-o-p-e-r," Neal.

Max

"DSK" wrote in message

Actually, one can varnish perfectly well underway, or anchored in a nice
cove.

The Pardeys were proof-positive of this. They did brightwork and woodwork
jobs as a means of acquiring funds underway, and considered their boat a
sales tool. So they kept Serrafin and Taleisin in bristol condition
constantly, which often meant doing maintenance underway or in quiet
anchorages. AFAIK they still do.

Max

"katysails" wrote in message

We varnsih...seven-right coats worth...and every 4-5 years the whole
shebang gets sanded all the way down and we start over again...we use
Z-Spar 2015 (flagship)...

If you and Mr. Sails would just refresh the varnish annually and repair any
defects, you'd save a lot of time and effort while keeping it looking
bristol.

If you'd rather do it your way, why "sand" it down? Use a heat gun and
scraper and save about half the time and effort. Scraping is also easier on
the wood, if done properly, and it works well with varnish removal.

Max

welcome my good Capt CM. On the edge of Buhayrat al Habbaniyahthe
mohmomad is most expert in the maker of wood treatment for boot. He
take camel water and dryed Euphrates water to kleen wood. Mix beetles
back with ground tree root from tree at great Zab banks. It louck much
honey and shine keep out salt. you like very much

Alibaba

Ali,

This tree root....... from what tree?

And how did you find the ASA?
Are you in Iraq now?

Regards,
Joe

"Maxprop" opined:


The Pardeys were proof-positive of this. They did brightwork and woodwork
jobs as a means of acquiring funds underway, and considered their boat a
sales tool. So they kept Serrafin and Taleisin in bristol condition
constantly, which often meant doing maintenance underway or in quiet
anchorages. AFAIK they still do.


If your idea of cruising is doing brightwork in quiet anchorages then you are
as lame as the Pardeys. I sure do enjoy hearing power tools and generators
and smelling varinis fumes so some putz can do useless cosmetic work on his
boat. Yes siree, that's what quiet anchorages are all about. Uhuh!

I would much rather do some snorkeling, fishing, beach combing, exploring
and sailing or even just sitting in my cockpit sipping a cold beer while breathing
the fresh air, enjoying the peace and quiet and noting I have the time to do
it because I'm not a slave to brightwork. . . But, then again, I am not an
'all show but no go' type like you. I value the basics in life. I'm a man and
a sailor. You and the over-the-hill Pardeys are show-boaters who have their
priorities wrong.

CN - a go-boater, not some lame show-boater.

Oil. That's what I use. Quick and cheap. More time for sailing.

Scotty


"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84...
Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half
away
for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the
vessel's
wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood
treatment
thread.

There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use
Tung Oil
and some of you that use your own secret recipe.

What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish?

To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the
work to
produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one
season of
duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the
results on
both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and
kept a kit
aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is
no
problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture.
Last
season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of
clear
Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work
since I
had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year
I
noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should
I use
this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the
teak go
grey?

CM

wrote:
On 9 Mar 2005 11:15:26 -0800, "Joe" wrote:

Ali,

This tree root....... from what tree? It from come the Date roots

And how did you find the ASA? Yur Marines show the team to Google
Are you in Iraq now? Now we are in Iraq yes

Regards,
Joe

And regards to you my new welcomed friend


I think he's in Colorado.

Yse colorado is rocky montain high. We like Jon Denvers and want to
Disco.

Bless you American ASA Sailors.

Alibaba



BB

wrote ...

Some people have enough substance to have and maintain both show AND
go. I'm not


No surprise there.