Thanx Max..... Maybe I'll give Epifanes a try this year....

CM


"Maxprop" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message

Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away
for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's
wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood
treatment thread.

There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung
Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe.

What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish?

To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to
produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of
duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results
on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept
a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up
is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture.
Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of
clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work
since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this
year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What
should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or
let the teak go grey?

You're facing the age-old quandary, Cappy: how to get the appearance of a
multi-coat, hand-rubbed varnish finish with the ease of Cetol or oil.

Bottom line: ain't ever gonna happen.

Either use varnish, or get used to something less attractive.

My advice:

1) If you want a varnish finish, start with bare wood and anyone's long
oil varnish thinned to 50% for penetration. Let dry, then sand smooth.
Then apply three thick coats of Epifanes Gloss Wood Finish without sanding
in between. No sanding is necessary, if you apply subsequent coats within
72 hours. And each coat equals two or three coats of long oil varnish.
AND it is completely compatible with varnish, either long oil or urethane
types. You can even alternate coats between varnish and EGWF, provided you
sand after each varnish coat, but not the EGWF coats, not that anyone
would actually do this. But back to the process: now allow the last
(3rd) coat of EGWF to dry, sand very smooth with 150 grit, 220 grit, and
400 wet/dry, and then apply your final coat of long-oil varnish, either
gloss or rubbed-effect (satin). Be sure to refresh the topcoat every year
with one or two coats of varnish, or you'll lose the finish and have to
start from scratch again. Or you can even use the EGWF instead of
varnish--it has just as effective UV filters as most varnish, and better
than some. AND be sure to repair any damage to the finish that penetrates
to the wood immediately.

2. If you want a Cetol finish, sand the wood smooth, then apply three
coats of Cetol Marine without sanding between. That's it, along with
refreshing every years with one coat. Nothing could be easier, but don't
expect a varnish-like appearance.

3. If an oil finish is acceptable, apply two or three coats of reduced
tung oil (pure tung thinned to 50% with mineral spirits), and plan to
re-apply every three months during the summer and at the beginning of each
season. Nice appearance, but requires too much work, IMO.

My pick: Cetol Marine. An acceptable finish if viewed from 10' away or
farther, and it protects the wood nicely. Not for teak decks, however,
unless you enjoy ice skating in the summer.

Max