Bobsprit wrote:

Wally, you're going to get plenty of real advise on this one

And Bobsprit also wrote:

... join a few of the Sailnet groups which could provide you
with FAR more genuine info that this group can provide.

You're contradicting yourself.


If you want a "proper" repair, you need to rebed those U bolts, even
if you have to cut them out. It's done all the time on low-end boats.
Most recently I watched a guy do exactly that job on a small Chrysler
boat.

The boat has a cabin lining which is a single-piece GRP moulding. There's an
air gap between this and the hull, and I can just get my fingers into the
gap, accessed from inside the settee berth. I used a little mirror to try
and get a look, and I can just see the inside of one of the U-bolts (three
per side). I reckon the chances of getting at the nuts with a socket set are
somewhere between minimal to hopeless, so I'm going to look into the
possibility of cutting apertures in the liner to gain access that way.
There's a glued-on moulded shelf on the liner where I'd want to do the
cutting, so I need to try and get that off first.


But wouldn't you prefer more feedback from a far bigger group
that this one?

Get a clue, Wally. Puh-lease!

Lame.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk

The boat has a cabin lining which is a single-piece GRP moulding.


Okay, so they put in the bolts, then glued or riveted the liner in. The liner
won't come down and you can't slip a wrench in their to grab a bolt. You'd
never get a bolt back on anyway in that case. That sucks. But cutting access
areas into the liner is a good idea. A Roto Zip tool (use the depth setting)
can make this a neat job. Set the depth to JUST through the depth of the liner.
You could then make teak plugs for the holes you made later on. Be careful not
to cut right up through the deckside!
Do it slowly and plan it carefull to avoid a mishap that will leave you with a
larger repair and glass work.
Why not take pics of this job before and after. Done right, you'll have made a
nice repair and an improvement to her that will help sell her when that day
comes.

Good Luck,

RB

Bobsprit wrote:

Okay, so they put in the bolts, then glued or riveted the liner in.

Yup, that's how it looks to me. What bugs me is that there doesn't seem to
be much of a backing plate other than the little strip that usually comes
with a standard U-bolt. That said, there's very little room to fit anything
bigger - no extra width, but maybe some more length. Whether any more
backing is needed is something I don't know - I'm not sure on what sort of
strain the rig is likely to put on the edge of the deck, or how well the GRP
will cope with it.


The liner won't come down and you can't slip a wrench in their to
grab a bolt. You'd never get a bolt back on anyway in that case. That
sucks. But cutting access areas into the liner is a good idea. A Roto
Zip tool (use the depth setting) can make this a neat job. Set the
depth to JUST through the depth of the liner.

I'm not sure that there's enough room to get in with a Rotozip - it's
possible, but it depends on where I need the hole such that the chosen tool
can reach up. The higher the hole needs to be, the harder it'll be to get
the Rotozip in (because it'll be hitting the liner/underside of the side
deck). I think a 1/4" drive socket with a short extension will work, though,
and that will let me work two or three inches below the underside.


You could then make
teak plugs for the holes you made later on.

No need to be that fancy - the holes would be behind the moulded shelf,
which would be reattached afterwards.


Be careful not to cut
right up through the deckside!
Do it slowly and plan it carefull to avoid a mishap that will leave
you with a larger repair and glass work.

Yup. No worries there.


Why not take pics of this job before and after. Done right, you'll
have made a nice repair and an improvement to her that will help sell
her when that day comes.

It's highly likely that I'll do pictures - I take loads as it is, and find
them very handy for getting a look at something when I'm at home, thinking
about stuff that I want to do.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk

Yup, that's how it looks to me. What bugs me is that there doesn't seem to
be much of a backing plate other than the little strip that usually comes
with a standard U-bolt. That said, there's very little room to fit anything
bigger - no extra width, but maybe some more length. Whether any more
backing is needed is something I don't know - I'm not sure on what sort of
strain the rig is likely to put on the edge of the deck, or how well the GRP
will cope with it.


Well, here are two points. One: The rig stayed up thus far. Two: A bigger
backing plate or washers can't hurt. Your rig is small and I'm guessing that
the deck is solid glass and not cored, so it's likely it's more than strong
enough. When you cut the area away look carefully for signs of stress, cracks
and such. Add the larger backing washer/plate and do your best to make the job
look "finished." This will be an improvement to the boat.

RB

Bobsprit wrote:

Well, here are two points. One: The rig stayed up thus far.

This is a very good point, and, although I might be less than impressed with
some of the engineering, I'm not aware of Foxcubs having a problem with
this. I guess the double lowers will help to spread the load amongst three
points rather than just one.


Two: A bigger backing plate or washers can't hurt. Your rig is small and
I'm
guessing that the deck is solid glass and not cored, so it's likely
it's more than strong enough.

Yup, mine is non-cored. Are the GRP layers in a cored deck thinner than that
of a non-cored deck - like two thin skins around the core?


When you cut the area away look
carefully for signs of stress, cracks and such.

Good idea. Next time I'm at the boat, I'll also have a very close look at
the outside around the shroud bases.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk