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#11
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DSK wrote:
Squeezing in miracle goop from above is doubtful. Is there any way of taking the nuts & backing plates off the underside? See post to Bob - no way of getting access without cutting holes. That way you could clean out all the old goop... somebody is sure to have squeezed some in from above, at some point in the past... maybe it even worked for a while... and start fresh. Doesn't look like there's been old goop put in from above - the gaps just have some dirt in them. Lately I've been using 3M 4200 UV-resistant. Works well on everything I've rebedded so far. Noted. How about Sikaflex? It's rather cheaper than 3M in my local chandler. -- Wally www.artbywally.com www.wally.myby.co.uk |
#12
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Yup, that's how it looks to me. What bugs me is that there doesn't seem to
be much of a backing plate other than the little strip that usually comes with a standard U-bolt. That said, there's very little room to fit anything bigger - no extra width, but maybe some more length. Whether any more backing is needed is something I don't know - I'm not sure on what sort of strain the rig is likely to put on the edge of the deck, or how well the GRP will cope with it. Well, here are two points. One: The rig stayed up thus far. Two: A bigger backing plate or washers can't hurt. Your rig is small and I'm guessing that the deck is solid glass and not cored, so it's likely it's more than strong enough. When you cut the area away look carefully for signs of stress, cracks and such. Add the larger backing washer/plate and do your best to make the job look "finished." This will be an improvement to the boat. RB |
#13
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Bobsprit wrote:
Well, here are two points. One: The rig stayed up thus far. This is a very good point, and, although I might be less than impressed with some of the engineering, I'm not aware of Foxcubs having a problem with this. I guess the double lowers will help to spread the load amongst three points rather than just one. Two: A bigger backing plate or washers can't hurt. Your rig is small and I'm guessing that the deck is solid glass and not cored, so it's likely it's more than strong enough. Yup, mine is non-cored. Are the GRP layers in a cored deck thinner than that of a non-cored deck - like two thin skins around the core? When you cut the area away look carefully for signs of stress, cracks and such. Good idea. Next time I'm at the boat, I'll also have a very close look at the outside around the shroud bases. -- Wally www.artbywally.com www.wally.myby.co.uk |
#14
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"Wally"
Any other way of fixing the problem? Yeah... Take Green Thing and cut it into little strips about 1/4 inch wide. Get a marlin spike and some tar. Dip green thing in the tar and stuff the strips in the cracks on your boat. Use a hammer to pack it in tight. Good Luck Joe |
#15
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Joe wrote:
Take Green Thing and cut it into little strips about 1/4 inch wide. Get a marlin spike and some tar. Dip green thing in the tar and stuff the strips in the cracks on your boat. Use a hammer to pack it in tight. You mean you don't want to buy it now? -- Wally www.artbywally.com www.wally.myby.co.uk |
#16
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"Wally" wrote in message ...
Joe wrote: Take Green Thing and cut it into little strips about 1/4 inch wide. Get a marlin spike and some tar. Dip green thing in the tar and stuff the strips in the cracks on your boat. Use a hammer to pack it in tight. You mean you don't want to buy it now? No....I think Charmin works just fine. I do however like Blue Scape how much is it?. Joe |
#17
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Joe wrote:
I do however like Blue Scape how much is it?. Bluescape is 240ukp plus shipping & insurance. The prices are on the web site - click the 'details' link next to any painting to get more info. -- Wally www.artbywally.com www.wally.myby.co.uk |
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