Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I'm in the process of getting a class together for some
of the more experienced students. One of the questions
that seems to come up from time to time is how to
anchor on the bay.

Anchoring out here is pretty simple, since bay mud is
pretty sticky. Assuming you even get close to the right
scope, it hardly ever a problem (with some caveats about
distance to shore and the occasional rock outcroping).

Anchoring in sticky mud is easy. There are lots of anchors that
will set & hold well, in fact almost anything including a bundle
of cinderblocks will hold. So then the issue is choosing where,
how much scope, etc etc (always an issue but often
overshadowed).


However, several people are interested in learning about
other anchoring techniques. The two that seem to come
up the most are two bow anchors and mooring-ball-bow/stern
anchor.

I read Jeff's post with interest, and I respectfully disagree.
Setting 2 anchors is a major PITA and offers no holding
advantage over a bigger single anchor. It does limit swing room,
and that's important sometimes.

I recently read through Skipper Bob's cruising book. I was
surprised to see that he recommends using 2 Danforths, and seems
to think that carrying extra scope or different types of anchors
is a waste of time & money. He also says he *always* sets two
anchors in case one drags. Seems to me that carrying 3 different
types of anchor, and using the appropriate one, would be much
more secure.

BTW why would you ever set a stern anchor if swinging from a
mooring ball, unless you were in an anchorage exposed to cross
swells? That's a very specialized circumstance, and since the
second anchor is for comfort, not really critical.



Up until now, we teach single bow (on the water of course)
and mention the other two, with a reference to more info in
the book. But, I'm wondering if I should go into more detail
(in the classroom, since there are more important things to
do on the water).

Depends on how much class room time you have, and what the
circumstances you have to cope with on the water. Do you have
examples of several different types of anchor? I can't honestly
recommend going to a grassy area and letting students tear it up
just to demonstrate the challenges of anchoring in grass, what
with the environment and all, but you shoudl certainly give them
a chance to see what an anchor dragging is like. Taking
bearings, checking the rode, etc etc; but also driving home the
point that if your anchor is dragging, you can't stand around
and debate. Action must be taken promptly.



What do you use?

We use either a plow, Bruce, or Danforth. Right now our main
anchor on the tugboat is a 35# plow on 40' of 3/8" chain. It is
reliable and relatively easy to use. Soft mud and littered
bottoms are it's weak point, the only time it wouldn't set we
found that it had collected a mess of rags, plastic jugs, and
what looked like Barbie doll heads. Of course, that was a chilly
night when we were in a relatively open anchorage, late at
night, gale expected, etc etc.

I am a big fan of the Bruce anchor. Even when undersized, the
times I have used one, they have set quickly and very securely
in bottoms ranging from rock, grass, mud, and gravel. It will
also reset well if the boat swings to a new tide or wind.



What do you think is important, given the conditions I
described?

1- recognizing a bad place to anchor
2- getting the right anchor
3- setting it properly, figuring scope, etc etc.
4- making sure it is set.

I've been surprised at how few people really put any effort into
anchoring, or who put a lot of effort into the wrong (IMHO)
thing. For example, on the advice of people like Skipper Bob a
lot of people are setting two anchors, but using little or no
chain, anchoring in stupid places, and not bothering to take
bearings or transits.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King