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#1
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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donquijote1954 wrote:
In 4 lbs? Is this the same as Danforth? Yes. |
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#2
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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donquijote1954 wrote: Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! I'd suggest trying a gallon plastic jug full of sand, cement, scrap metal, or anything heavy. The plastic won't scratch up the bottom of the boat. Tie a line to the handle on the jug. In my neighbourhood we have plastic recyling so you can find plastic jugs at the curb on garbage day. Cheap to replace when necessary. In pre-plastic times we used a gallon paint can full of cement on a 16 foot fishing boat. Boating books say to put out 5-6 times a smuch line as depth, ie in 6 ft of water put out 30 ft of anchor line. That's partly to get the spokes on patented anchors to dig in but also to put some spring in the line to reduce anchor drag. |
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#3
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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Wm Watt wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! I'd suggest trying a gallon plastic jug full of sand, cement, scrap metal, or anything heavy. The plastic won't scratch up the bottom of the boat. Tie a line to the handle on the jug. In my neighbourhood we have plastic recyling so you can find plastic jugs at the curb on garbage day. Cheap to replace when necessary. In pre-plastic times we used a gallon paint can full of cement on a 16 foot fishing boat. Recycling is always a good idea! ![]() Boating books say to put out 5-6 times a smuch line as depth, ie in 6 ft of water put out 30 ft of anchor line. That's partly to get the spokes on patented anchors to dig in but also to put some spring in the line to reduce anchor drag. So I got a 100' rope, which seemed to me twice as long as necessary, should I cut at 50'? By the way, DO I NEED A CHAIN??? |
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#4
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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It sounds like me, though I'm not fishing and I don't mind the
swinging... "Once you've found biting fish, you may want to anchor the canoe in position. When anchoring a canoe use two anchors to minimize the boat from swinging (unless you intentionally want to do so to fish a wider area). To properly anchor a canoe, put one off the bow and the other directly off the stern. Do not tie anchors off the sides of a canoe as this can lead the canoe turning over in heavy waves. Mushroom or river anchors between eight- to 15-pounds coupled with nylon rope will work for most canoes. When tying off anchors use quick-release knots so slack line can be let out in the event of unexpected waves surprising you to ensure the canoe doesn't become swamped." http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...objectID=30095 So one on the bow with short chain should do. Preferably Danforth. |
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#5
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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On 8 Nov 2006 14:00:43 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: It sounds like me, though I'm not fishing and I don't mind the swinging... "Once you've found biting fish, you may want to anchor the canoe in position. When anchoring a canoe use two anchors to minimize the boat from swinging (unless you intentionally want to do so to fish a wider area). To properly anchor a canoe, put one off the bow and the other directly off the stern. Do not tie anchors off the sides of a canoe as this can lead the canoe turning over in heavy waves. Anchors at both ends seems risky to me unless one has a lot of slack rope. I'd not do it myself, even with slack. Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
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#6
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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Cyli wrote:
Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. Until the wind/tide changes. If a river has a steady current, you'd be fine. Boats routinely anchor with two anchors to prevent drift. You can have one off each end or two in a V at one end. Perfectly safe unless you use 20' of rode at low tide in a 40' tide zone. And never anchor beam on to the surf :-) Mike |
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#7
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 01:26:29 -0500, Michael Daly
wrote: Cyli wrote: Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. Until the wind/tide changes. That's why I said 'for some time.' Nothing, particularly tide and wind, lasts forever in the same direction. If a river has a steady current, you'd be fine. Boats routinely anchor with two anchors to prevent drift. You can have one off each end or two in a V at one end. Perfectly safe unless you use 20' of rode at low tide in a 40' tide zone. And never anchor beam on to the surf :-) Me for the two in a vee at one end. But then I have mostly been a river camper. I know people have done the short rope / higher tide thing, though it's hard to imagine that they managed to get to a place where they could anchor without understanding about tide, but after what I've seen on the river not understanding (and not willing to understand, when one tries to explain) about current and wind, I have to believe it. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
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#8
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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I'd be careful trying to swim very far off and ocean shore. I was surprized once while swimming in the surf how far the undertow(?) carried me away. I had to swim hard to get back to the beach. Dumb tourist. I'm a freshwater boater myself but I've read that a boat rising and falling on ocean swells can drag it's anchor if the line is too short. When a storm hit our exposed moorings at a local freshwater sailing club a lot of boats dragged their moorings and those were large concrete blocks. |
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#9
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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Wm Watt wrote: I'd be careful trying to swim very far off and ocean shore. I was surprized once while swimming in the surf how far the undertow(?) carried me away. I had to swim hard to get back to the beach. Dumb tourist. I'm a freshwater boater myself but I've read that a boat rising and falling on ocean swells can drag it's anchor if the line is too short. When a storm hit our exposed moorings at a local freshwater sailing club a lot of boats dragged their moorings and those were large concrete blocks. I've got a sit-on-top which would have all the flotation I need and I just need to jump back on, but the canoe, though it floats when swamped, I guess I would'n care to bail out. The canoe I only use in the Intracoastal, of course. |
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#10
posted to rec.boats.paddle.touring,ott.rec.canoe-kayak,rec.boats.paddle
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Well, I went back to the store and thought the Danforth was too bulky and sharp so I bought a 10lb Navy type anchor. It got the flukes, but not the bulk. http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Would I need a chain for it??? One situation I may encounter where I need a strong anchor is when I'm facing a strong wind and the waves flood the boat too much, so I throw anchor, bail out, and keep on going. This happens quite often in winter time when I'm returning home. We are two people and one can't keep the canoe straight into the wind. |
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