Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement. The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor, but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.

You've got the wrong NG...THIS ng is :

alt.political-narcissistic-asswipe-garbage

No one here will answer ANY boat -related question.

William Andersen wrote:
Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement. The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor, but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.


The sensor that detects actual trim limit could be defective or
disconnected or have a bad connection. I'm told that those hockey puck
shaped switches that are mounted at the end of the outdrive pivot shaft,
are prone to failure.

wrote:

You've got the wrong NG...THIS ng is :

alt.political-narcissistic-asswipe-garbage

No one here will answer ANY boat -related question.

Wrong again.

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement. The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor, but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.

I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.

There are two switches incorporated into the throttle control, a thumb
switch for up/down and a separate switch for trailer. In normal operation up
trim is limited when using the thumb switch, the trailer switch raises the
outdrive the maximum, and the thumb switch down position lowers the drive
all the way.
The wiring diagram I have is a schematic, so it indicates or example, a fuse
in a circuit, but not where in the circuit.
I can't get to the wires behind the ghunwale at the throttle control. I'll
have to see if I have the mounting instructions - some of those papers were
with the boat when I bought it new. There's a hole in the bottom of the
throttle handle, but I couldn't feel a screw with either a flat blade or
phillips screw driver. I didn't have any luck with hex wrenches either, but
I suspect that's what I'll need to remove the assembly. There's a thin
plastic shield between the throttle handle and the mount. Lifting it up with
a knife blade, I could see a mounting nut. I can probably get a socket
wrench in the gunwale to remove the bolt, but I don't want to break that
plastic shield, so I want to remove the throttle first.
The fluid level is OK and there's no corrosion on the pistons.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement. The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor, but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get
it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down
switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to
get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.

I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.

I have the Installation Instructions (Commander 3000 Classic Panel Mount
Remote Control)!
To remove it, I have to move the control handle forward 45 degrees and use a
hex wrench through that hole in the bottom of the handle to loosen the
Tension Adjusting Screw. Then, I have to remove the Throttle Only button,
then the Handle Retaining Bolt.
This sounds like a couple of hours labor just to get to the wires to be able
to start checking the circuits. I'm going to take another look first, to see
if I can get to the wires without removing the Control.

"William Andersen" wrote in message
...
There are two switches incorporated into the throttle control, a thumb
switch for up/down and a separate switch for trailer. In normal operation
up trim is limited when using the thumb switch, the trailer switch raises
the outdrive the maximum, and the thumb switch down position lowers the
drive all the way.
The wiring diagram I have is a schematic, so it indicates or example, a
fuse in a circuit, but not where in the circuit.
I can't get to the wires behind the ghunwale at the throttle control. I'll
have to see if I have the mounting instructions - some of those papers
were with the boat when I bought it new. There's a hole in the bottom of
the throttle handle, but I couldn't feel a screw with either a flat blade
or phillips screw driver. I didn't have any luck with hex wrenches either,
but I suspect that's what I'll need to remove the assembly. There's a thin
plastic shield between the throttle handle and the mount. Lifting it up
with a knife blade, I could see a mounting nut. I can probably get a
socket wrench in the gunwale to remove the bolt, but I don't want to break
that plastic shield, so I want to remove the throttle first.
The fluid level is OK and there's no corrosion on the pistons.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement.
The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor,
but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get
it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down
switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to
get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.

I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.

William Andersen wrote:
I have the Installation Instructions (Commander 3000 Classic Panel Mount
Remote Control)!
To remove it, I have to move the control handle forward 45 degrees and use a
hex wrench through that hole in the bottom of the handle to loosen the
Tension Adjusting Screw. Then, I have to remove the Throttle Only button,
then the Handle Retaining Bolt.
This sounds like a couple of hours labor just to get to the wires to be able
to start checking the circuits. I'm going to take another look first, to see
if I can get to the wires without removing the Control.

"William Andersen" wrote in message
...
There are two switches incorporated into the throttle control, a thumb
switch for up/down and a separate switch for trailer. In normal operation
up trim is limited when using the thumb switch, the trailer switch raises
the outdrive the maximum, and the thumb switch down position lowers the
drive all the way.
The wiring diagram I have is a schematic, so it indicates or example, a
fuse in a circuit, but not where in the circuit.
I can't get to the wires behind the ghunwale at the throttle control. I'll
have to see if I have the mounting instructions - some of those papers
were with the boat when I bought it new. There's a hole in the bottom of
the throttle handle, but I couldn't feel a screw with either a flat blade
or phillips screw driver. I didn't have any luck with hex wrenches either,
but I suspect that's what I'll need to remove the assembly. There's a thin
plastic shield between the throttle handle and the mount. Lifting it up
with a knife blade, I could see a mounting nut. I can probably get a
socket wrench in the gunwale to remove the bolt, but I don't want to break
that plastic shield, so I want to remove the throttle first.
The fluid level is OK and there's no corrosion on the pistons.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement.
The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor,
but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get
it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down
switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to
get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.
I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.



What you need to do is find the trim pump assembly. Look for a black
lamp cord that terminates at the pump assembly. The other end of the
cord goes through the transom to the trim limit switch. Checking the
limit switch is easy. You can use an ohmeter to check the switch
operation or jumper the the wires together on the pump side and see if
the trim switch on the shifter works. Obviously the lamp cord should be
disconnected to do either procedure. Don't take the shifter apart unless
you are sure one of the switches is bad.

On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 02:34:22 -0500, Jim wrote:

William Andersen wrote:
I have the Installation Instructions (Commander 3000 Classic Panel Mount
Remote Control)!
To remove it, I have to move the control handle forward 45 degrees and use a
hex wrench through that hole in the bottom of the handle to loosen the
Tension Adjusting Screw. Then, I have to remove the Throttle Only button,
then the Handle Retaining Bolt.
This sounds like a couple of hours labor just to get to the wires to be able
to start checking the circuits. I'm going to take another look first, to see
if I can get to the wires without removing the Control.

"William Andersen" wrote in message
...
There are two switches incorporated into the throttle control, a thumb
switch for up/down and a separate switch for trailer. In normal operation
up trim is limited when using the thumb switch, the trailer switch raises
the outdrive the maximum, and the thumb switch down position lowers the
drive all the way.
The wiring diagram I have is a schematic, so it indicates or example, a
fuse in a circuit, but not where in the circuit.
I can't get to the wires behind the ghunwale at the throttle control. I'll
have to see if I have the mounting instructions - some of those papers
were with the boat when I bought it new. There's a hole in the bottom of
the throttle handle, but I couldn't feel a screw with either a flat blade
or phillips screw driver. I didn't have any luck with hex wrenches either,
but I suspect that's what I'll need to remove the assembly. There's a thin
plastic shield between the throttle handle and the mount. Lifting it up
with a knife blade, I could see a mounting nut. I can probably get a
socket wrench in the gunwale to remove the bolt, but I don't want to break
that plastic shield, so I want to remove the throttle first.
The fluid level is OK and there's no corrosion on the pistons.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement.
The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor,
but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get
it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down
switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to
get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.
I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.



What you need to do is find the trim pump assembly. Look for a black
lamp cord that terminates at the pump assembly. The other end of the
cord goes through the transom to the trim limit switch. Checking the
limit switch is easy. You can use an ohmeter to check the switch
operation or jumper the the wires together on the pump side and see if
the trim switch on the shifter works. Obviously the lamp cord should be
disconnected to do either procedure. Don't take the shifter apart unless
you are sure one of the switches is bad.

Good point - then again, I had a different concept of what he had from
his description.

By the way, didn't we used to call lamp cord, zip cord? :)

Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:
On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 02:34:22 -0500, Jim wrote:

William Andersen wrote:
I have the Installation Instructions (Commander 3000 Classic Panel Mount
Remote Control)!
To remove it, I have to move the control handle forward 45 degrees and use a
hex wrench through that hole in the bottom of the handle to loosen the
Tension Adjusting Screw. Then, I have to remove the Throttle Only button,
then the Handle Retaining Bolt.
This sounds like a couple of hours labor just to get to the wires to be able
to start checking the circuits. I'm going to take another look first, to see
if I can get to the wires without removing the Control.

"William Andersen" wrote in message
...
There are two switches incorporated into the throttle control, a thumb
switch for up/down and a separate switch for trailer. In normal operation
up trim is limited when using the thumb switch, the trailer switch raises
the outdrive the maximum, and the thumb switch down position lowers the
drive all the way.
The wiring diagram I have is a schematic, so it indicates or example, a
fuse in a circuit, but not where in the circuit.
I can't get to the wires behind the ghunwale at the throttle control. I'll
have to see if I have the mounting instructions - some of those papers
were with the boat when I bought it new. There's a hole in the bottom of
the throttle handle, but I couldn't feel a screw with either a flat blade
or phillips screw driver. I didn't have any luck with hex wrenches either,
but I suspect that's what I'll need to remove the assembly. There's a thin
plastic shield between the throttle handle and the mount. Lifting it up
with a knife blade, I could see a mounting nut. I can probably get a
socket wrench in the gunwale to remove the bolt, but I don't want to break
that plastic shield, so I want to remove the throttle first.
The fluid level is OK and there's no corrosion on the pistons.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:05:02 -0800, "William Andersen"
wrote:

Where do I start troubleshooting my electric trim system?
Nothing happens when I use the Up trim switch - no sound, no movement.
The
trailer (up) switch works correctly. The Down switch lowers the motor,
but
not the last couple of inches. I pushed it down with my boat pole to get
it
all the way down.
Once underway, I could use the Trailer switch to trim up and the Down
switch
worked correctly.
The boat sat in dry storage for seven months. It took about a minute to
get
the gas pumped back into the carburetor, but then it started right up and
ran great. This trim problem is the only thing not working.
1998 Bayliner runabout (1950CL) with 3 liter MerCruiser sterndrive.
I assume that you mean that you can't trim the outdrive from the
throttle position, but you can trim the outdrive from the bow trim
switch.

Ok, couple of things to look at. First, and probably the most
obvious, is that the trim switch in the throttle housing is stuck or
inoperative. Check to see if you have power to the switch first, then
make the switch (up or down) and see if you have voltage and current.
If you don't once position contact has been made, but you do have
voltage current before the switch, then it's the switch.

If you have power to the Up or Down side of the throttle switch, it's
time to move to the trim switch relay. I don't know where it's
located on your boat, but on my brother's boat (similar outdrive), the
relay is mounted inside the stern above or around the outdrive stern
cutout. You may have to hunt around for it or ask somebody where it's
located on that boat. Again, check for voltage/current in and out on
the relay wiring. Most relays have the in/out schematic on the cover
of the relay. If you have current up/down, then it's on to the trim
motor. That could be a little more difficult - if it's not working,
there really isn't a way to check the internal wiring - you'd have to
work with the outside wiring. There could be a fusable link somewhere
that might need replacing - it would help you to get a schematic of
the outdrive system to help out.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have a seal
gone in the trim piston(s), it's low on hydraulic fluid (had that
happen to me once a long time ago) or the trim pistons are corroded
and sticking.

Hope that helps.

What you need to do is find the trim pump assembly. Look for a black
lamp cord that terminates at the pump assembly. The other end of the
cord goes through the transom to the trim limit switch. Checking the
limit switch is easy. You can use an ohmeter to check the switch
operation or jumper the the wires together on the pump side and see if
the trim switch on the shifter works. Obviously the lamp cord should be
disconnected to do either procedure. Don't take the shifter apart unless
you are sure one of the switches is bad.

Good point - then again, I had a different concept of what he had from
his description.

By the way, didn't we used to call lamp cord, zip cord? :)

Back in the day it might have been called zip cord. But the day was
before my time (G)