On Jun 18, 5:27*pm, DK wrote:
kipmc4 wrote:
I'm changing the bunks on a used trailer I bought and need some
advice. The bunks are adjustable and I have measured the position on
my old trailer and have all the supports close. The only question is:

What's the best method to curve the bunks to fit the hull? The bunks
curve up in front and that is not too hard but they also curve inward
toward the center. The bunks are very stiff in that direction.

I'm using 2x6 wet fir ( not kiln dried)

Do I get the wood wet? *Use a chain to pull them into position?
Something else?

I'd like to get the shape pretty close before I try loading the boat.

18ft I/O Wellcraft w/ Cobra outdrive. Single axile trailer.

Thanks

Kip

How long are the bunks? *They should only be about five to six feet, or
so, on an 18' boat. *The hull should be pretty flat and even in that
area. *Just make sure the angle is right.

Also make sure they support the transom. *I've seen boats with the bunks
mounted a full foot ahead of the transom. *They should be flush.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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Thanks to everyone who replied.

I do expect that the bunks will gradually take more of a curve as time
goes on but I don't want to damage the hull in the mean time.

Do you think that 2x6 is the way to go?

The current trailer, which fits the boat quite well, has bunks from
the transom about 9 ft 6 in ft forward to the 4th cross beam. The 4th
cross beam on the new (used) trailer is at 11 ft !!! I was going to
extent the bunks that far. Is that too far? Is there a drawback to
extending too far? The hull is more curved there so it takes more work
to get it to fit.

The 3rd cross beam is at 7 ft 4 inches. Do you think that that is far
enough forward? I could let the bunks extend past the support. The 2 x
6's will take a pretty good load even unsuported. .

Also this trailer has higher cross beams so I will have to go higher
to clear them which means having to back further into the water to
float it

It's a 4.3 L V6 I/O

Any more advice?

Kip