wrote:
On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:

You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle
battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run
the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I
would use the case even for the AGM.
I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front,
or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit
breaker, which they recommend in the manual.
A case with a carry handle is a great idea.

Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old
Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows.

What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing?

You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use
in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because
the motor is cooked.

I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor
is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker
because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring.

Mike

(signed under different account)

Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is...

http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...c/MKR%2D19.htm

What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug?

http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...Group/Home.htm

That is 'not' a manual! That is a parts sales catalog. Sure, they will
sell you anything you think want.

Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has
resistance which eats up battery power. Those quick connects are cheesy
at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which
eats up more power. Next door to one place I worked they dealt with
those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact
quick connect. I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of
discards.

What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing?

How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? If by nuts, then
wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need.

You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your
charger, but you need to go for a quality part. Gold plated pins is best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

On Jan 10, 11:24*am, Mike Romain wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:

You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle
battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run
the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I
would use the case even for the AGM.
I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front,
or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit
breaker, which they recommend in the manual.
A case with a carry handle is a great idea.

Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? *As mentioned, the old
Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. *Overload it and the bulb blows.

What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing?

You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use
in high end stereo systems. *If you blow the fuse, you paddle because
the motor is cooked.

I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. *Cooked motor
is a cooked motor. *A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker
because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring.

Mike

(signed under different account)

Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is...

http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317...

What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug?

http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego...

That is 'not' a manual! *That is a parts sales catalog. *Sure, they will
sell you anything you think want.

Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has
resistance which eats up battery power. *Those quick connects are cheesy
at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which
eats up more power. *Next door to one place I worked they dealt with
those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact
quick connect. *I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of
discards.

What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing?

How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? *If by nuts, then
wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need.

You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your
charger, but you need to go for a quality part. *Gold plated pins is best.

donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:24 am, Mike Romain wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:
You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle
battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run
the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I
would use the case even for the AGM.
I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front,
or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit
breaker, which they recommend in the manual.
A case with a carry handle is a great idea.
Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old
Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows.
What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing?
You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use
in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because
the motor is cooked.
I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor
is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker
because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring.
Mike
(signed under different account)
Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is...
http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317...
What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug?
http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego...
That is 'not' a manual! That is a parts sales catalog. Sure, they will
sell you anything you think want.

Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has
resistance which eats up battery power. Those quick connects are cheesy
at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which
eats up more power. Next door to one place I worked they dealt with
those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact
quick connect. I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of
discards.

What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing?

How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? If by nuts, then
wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need.

You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your
charger, but you need to go for a quality part. Gold plated pins is best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OK, the manual says...

"WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always
install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the
trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To
order a MKR-19..."


I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. The riptide motors
don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links
you provided. I would be in a better position to advise you about it if
I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is
fused.

If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable
of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on
that breaker. Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections.

Mike

On Jan 11, 3:29*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
"WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always
install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the
trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To
order a MKR-19..."

I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. *The riptide motors
don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links
you provided. *I would be in a better position to advise you about it if
I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is
fused.

If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable
of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on
that breaker. *Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections.

I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen.


Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Got it from here...

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232

The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point...

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide

donquijote1954 wrote:

I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen.

That is a perfect reason for having the breaker.


Got it from here...

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232

The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point...

They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the
breaker has your butt covered.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide


That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water
would kill it otherwise.

Mike

On Jan 12, 11:08*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:

I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen.

That is a perfect reason for having the breaker.



Got it from here...

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232

The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point...

They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the
breaker has your butt covered.



http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide

That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water
would kill it otherwise.

Mike

Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and
running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet.

donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:

I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen.
That is a perfect reason for having the breaker.



Got it from here...
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232
The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point...
They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the
breaker has your butt covered.



http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide
That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water
would kill it otherwise.

Mike

Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and
running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet.

A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be
available at any boat dealer in the area.