HK wrote:



Hydrophobic interaction.

Harry,

There is no doubt about it, you are much smarter than I am. I am
curious why a really smart guy like yourself, living in New Haven,
with some of the best schools in the country within 150 miles, would
have to slum it and go to a 4th tier school such as University of Kansas?


You missed the most important part about what made you go to the U of K.
I would have thought you could have gotten into something better.
My daughter is slumming it at state school, but she is at U of Mich.

Chuck Gould wrote:
On Oct 28, 6:39?pm, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:
Chuck Gould wrote:
On Oct 27, 10:44?pm, sherwindu wrote:
After pulling my boat from the Root River in Racine Wisconsin, I noticed that
there
was an ugly band of black gunk at the waterline, especially at the upstream side
of
the boat when it was in the slip. A power wash got the mud off, but this band
of
gunk stayed on. I had the same problem last year, and had to rub like hell with
all kinds of cleaners to get it off. Someone recommended using Tidy Bowl as a
cleaner, possibly because it contains Muratic Acid. I know that Muratic Acid is
used to clean and etch concrete, so I was wary to use it on my fiberglass hull.
Was I correct about this? Is there a better way to clean off this river junk?
I
have used Zud and other similar products, but they don't get everything off and
require a lot of elbow grease. Some of this gunk is on the bottom paint, as
well,
so I have to be careful not to dissolve that.
Sherwin
You might try this stuff:
http://lat43.com/marine.html
Absolutely non-abrasive, and cleans far better than any thing else I
have ever used.
Chuck, have you used this stuff on water line gunk?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If it will take off spider poop, (and it does), water line scum should
be easy. No, I have not personally used in on waer line gunk.

There's a before and after photo on the web site showing what are
reported to be the results of spraying a dirty bottomw with water,
applying the soap, letting it sit a while, and then spraying again. I
haven't done that either, but based on what I've been able to observe
above the waterline I don't doubt that they got the results the photos
illustrate.



Our spider poop must not be as strong as the NW spider poop, I can just
hose that off of my boat, even the parts I don't wax.

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...


I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for
a "scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch


That sounds like me.
Would that mineral oil affect the UV coatings?



No. Wipe it on gently and then off gently.

If you paid for a "scratch resistant" coating, you were probably also given
a small bottle of "refresher" or something called similarly. Guess what's
in the little bottle?

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
"Don White" wrote in message
...
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for
a "scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch

That sounds like me.
Would that mineral oil affect the UV coatings?



No. Wipe it on gently and then off gently.

If you paid for a "scratch resistant" coating, you were probably also given
a small bottle of "refresher" or something called similarly. Guess what's
in the little bottle?

Eisboch



(As I raise my hand) ME ME ME , Eisboch call on me.

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:03:54 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

|Chuck Gould wrote:
| On Oct 28, 6:39?pm, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
| wrote:
| Chuck Gould wrote:
| On Oct 27, 10:44?pm, sherwindu wrote:
| After pulling my boat from the Root River in Racine Wisconsin, I noticed that
| there
| was an ugly band of black gunk at the waterline, especially at the upstream side
| of
| the boat when it was in the slip. A power wash got the mud off, but this band
| of
| gunk stayed on. I had the same problem last year, and had to rub like hell with
| all kinds of cleaners to get it off. Someone recommended using Tidy Bowl as a
| cleaner, possibly because it contains Muratic Acid. I know that Muratic Acid is
| used to clean and etch concrete, so I was wary to use it on my fiberglass hull.
| Was I correct about this? Is there a better way to clean off this river junk?
| I
| have used Zud and other similar products, but they don't get everything off and
| require a lot of elbow grease. Some of this gunk is on the bottom paint, as
| well,
| so I have to be careful not to dissolve that.
| Sherwin
| You might try this stuff:
| http://lat43.com/marine.html
| Absolutely non-abrasive, and cleans far better than any thing else I
| have ever used.
| Chuck, have you used this stuff on water line gunk?- Hide quoted text -
|
| - Show quoted text -
|
| If it will take off spider poop, (and it does), water line scum should
| be easy. No, I have not personally used in on waer line gunk.
|
| There's a before and after photo on the web site showing what are
| reported to be the results of spraying a dirty bottomw with water,
| applying the soap, letting it sit a while, and then spraying again. I
| haven't done that either, but based on what I've been able to observe
| above the waterline I don't doubt that they got the results the photos
| illustrate.
|
|
|
|Our spider poop must not be as strong as the NW spider poop, I can just
|hose that off of my boat, even the parts I don't wax.

Boy, I can't..... you can hardly SCRUB that crap off..... even from
things like glazed tile....

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for a
"scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch


Another thing that always cracked me up ....

Many people pay 50 bucks or more extra for an "anti-reflective" coating.
There's nothing wrong with that .... the anti-reflective thin film coating,
if properly done, works just fine.

What is goofy about it though is that it isn't a true, flat antireflective
coating. The thin film design includes a slightly reflective "bump" in the
green light spectrum, and is called "neutral green" in the ophthalmic
eyeglass coating industry. It's only purpose is to assure the customer
that indeed, his/her glasses got the special, 50 dollar treatment. A good
anti-reflection coating would not have the green tint.

I have a 6-inch diameter flat glass that was masked in all but the center,
3-inch diameter section. A very good anti-reflection coating was applied to
the unmasked section. If you look at it, it appears to be an 6-inch glass
plate with a 3-inch hole in the center.

Eisboch

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:03:54 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

|Chuck Gould wrote:
| On Oct 28, 6:39?pm, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
| wrote:
| Chuck Gould wrote:
| On Oct 27, 10:44?pm, sherwindu wrote:
| After pulling my boat from the Root River in Racine Wisconsin, I noticed that
| there
| was an ugly band of black gunk at the waterline, especially at the upstream side
| of
| the boat when it was in the slip. A power wash got the mud off, but this band
| of
| gunk stayed on. I had the same problem last year, and had to rub like hell with
| all kinds of cleaners to get it off. Someone recommended using Tidy Bowl as a
| cleaner, possibly because it contains Muratic Acid. I know that Muratic Acid is
| used to clean and etch concrete, so I was wary to use it on my fiberglass hull.
| Was I correct about this? Is there a better way to clean off this river junk?
| I
| have used Zud and other similar products, but they don't get everything off and
| require a lot of elbow grease. Some of this gunk is on the bottom paint, as
| well,
| so I have to be careful not to dissolve that.
| Sherwin
| You might try this stuff:
| http://lat43.com/marine.html
| Absolutely non-abrasive, and cleans far better than any thing else I
| have ever used.
| Chuck, have you used this stuff on water line gunk?- Hide quoted text -
|
| - Show quoted text -
|
| If it will take off spider poop, (and it does), water line scum should
| be easy. No, I have not personally used in on waer line gunk.
|
| There's a before and after photo on the web site showing what are
| reported to be the results of spraying a dirty bottomw with water,
| applying the soap, letting it sit a while, and then spraying again. I
| haven't done that either, but based on what I've been able to observe
| above the waterline I don't doubt that they got the results the photos
| illustrate.
|
|
|
|Our spider poop must not be as strong as the NW spider poop, I can just
|hose that off of my boat, even the parts I don't wax.

Boy, I can't..... you can hardly SCRUB that crap off..... even from
things like glazed tile....


Well just another reason why you need to try Zaino Bros. wash.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:45:18 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:



Umm. I think the scratch coating is included on all plastic eyeglass
lenses at no charge these days. I haven't paid extra for it in over 20
years.



Well, they shouldn't charge for it. You can't make a relatively soft
material harder by putting a very thin (few hundred angstrom) hard coating
on it. It's like trying to make foam rubber hard by applying a thin coat
of enamel paint.

Some of the newer plastics are, by virtue of their chemistry, harder than
others and therefore more "scratch resistant".

Eisboch

John H. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:28:56 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:18:05 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
BAR wrote:
sherwindu wrote:
My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a whole
season.
Is that Carnuba? If it is then that put that in some cheap chocolates
too.
Does it also protect your digestive tract?

Do you remember that long thread we had a number of years ago, about
what was the best wax for your car. As with so many NG threads it
went on for months. I wish I could remember who made the post about
Zaino and "sold" me on trying it. I owe them a beer and dinner.



I'm not sure, but I think I was the first one or maybe the second who
mentioned the virtues of Zaino.
Well if you are I owe you a beer and dinner.
I'd pay to be there for that.

If you'll buy my dinner, I'll come too!

I have a great idea, why don't we go for a dinner cruise around the
Baltimore Harbor. If Harry will bring his big boat, I will have it
catered.

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...


I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for a
"scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch


That sounds like me.
Would that mineral oil affect the UV coatings?