On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote:
jaykchan wrote:
those boxy structures are totally useless

If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be
to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know
several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means.
Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a
boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion.
Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful.

Rick

What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the
corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt
this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be
too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason
why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure.
They look too weak for providing any structural support.

If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures
of the boat in it:

http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html

Thanks.

Jay Chan

On Mon, 29 Oct 07 jaykchan wrote:
If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures
of the boat in it:
http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html

I dunno Jay. If the "boxy structures" are the sections above the
hull/deck joint (the part marked as 6" high), I'd leave them alone
until you have a builder/designer take a look first and give an
opinion. Otherwise, I'd go back to the motor bracket idea. Your
transom should be more than strong enough to handle 8hp & 116 lbs, on
a bracket that sticks out 12". That stress would be miniscule
compared to the stress of a 115hp when you shower down on it. I can
see your tilt problem though, when the bracket is lifted. It can be
done though it might take shims. You're right in doing a lot of
measuring.
Granted it's your boat and your call, but that'd be my opinion.

Rick

On Oct 29, 1:41 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 07 jaykchan wrote:

If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures
of the boat in it:
http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html

I dunno Jay. If the "boxy structures" are the sections above the
hull/deck joint (the part marked as 6" high), I'd leave them alone
until you have a builder/designer take a look first and give an
opinion. Otherwise, I'd go back to the motor bracket idea. Your
transom should be more than strong enough to handle 8hp & 116 lbs, on
a bracket that sticks out 12". That stress would be miniscule
compared to the stress of a 115hp when you shower down on it. I can
see your tilt problem though, when the bracket is lifted. It can be
done though it might take shims. You're right in doing a lot of
measuring.
Granted it's your boat and your call, but that'd be my opinion.

Rick

Thanks for telling me your assessment. This is what I count on from
posting in this newsgroup -- nothing less.

At this point, my head is still spinning because my original plan was
depending on getting rid of that boxy structures. Oh well. I think I
will have to change my plan.

Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum
kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or
something like that). There will be many compound angles involved. I
will definitely need to make a full size model before asking the
welder to fabricate it.

As for the livewells and additional storage room that I want, I don't
know now. I will have to take a good look on my boat to see if I can
re-arrange anything else to make them happen.

Thanks again for your advice before I make a mistake.

Jay Chan

jaykchan wrote:
Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum
kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or
something like that). There will be many compound angles involved.

Just for giggles, I measured an older version I have of this bracket.

http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=71091

Mine, in it's fully "Up" position, points upward about 11" (from the
top of its mounting plate) and back about 9". Not much diff from what
you need. And it has adjustments for compound angles. With it, you
can lower it to any one of several levels and run it from there. The
new ones have two different "vertical travel distance" models to
choose from. Might be worth a second look.

Rick

On Oct 29, 4:25 pm, wrote:
jaykchan wrote:
Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum
kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or
something like that). There will be many compound angles involved.

Just for giggles, I measured an older version I have of this bracket.

http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=71091

Mine, in it's fully "Up" position, points upward about 11" (from the
top of its mounting plate) and back about 9". Not much diff from what
you need. And it has adjustments for compound angles. With it, you
can lower it to any one of several levels and run it from there. The
new ones have two different "vertical travel distance" models to
choose from. Might be worth a second look.

Rick

I know... I know... But the retractable version of motor bracket that
you have mentioned is either solidly-built-but-expensive or cheap-but-
looks-flimsy. I cannot have it both cheap and solidly built. The one
that I have in mind is going to be welded and is not retractable --
meaning no moving parts. This means it will be very solid. And I
have connection at work to have it welded (I will need to get the
material and cut it myself); therefore, I am sure I can get it done at
a reasonable cost.

Moreover, I intend to get the kicker that has the power tilt option,
and that function will be overlapping with the "retractable" function
of the retractable motor bracket.

Therefore, I think a non-retractable version is probably a better
choice for me. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Jay Chan

"jaykchan wrote:
I think a non-retractable version is probably a better
choice for me.

You da man ;-)
Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web
page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long
shaft.

Rick

wrote in message
...
"jaykchan wrote:
I think a non-retractable version is probably a better
choice for me.

You da man ;-)
Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web
page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long
shaft.

Rick

Basically what I have on my boat. May have some pics around. If I find
them I will post overthere.

On Oct 30, 12:02 pm, wrote:
"jaykchan wrote:
I think a non-retractable version is probably a better
choice for me.

You da man ;-)
Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web
page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long
shaft.

Rick

What I have in mind is something like the one described in this web
page by a guy called John Anderson:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...5AuxMotor.html

His bracket needs to point to the side. Mine will need to not only
point to the side, but also point up -- compounded angle. I
definitely need to make a full scale model before I will cut any
metal.

Jay Chan

On Oct 29, 12:31 pm, "
wrote:
On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote:

jaykchan wrote:
those boxy structures are totally useless

If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be
to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know
several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means.
Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a
boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion.
Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful.

Rick

What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the
corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt
this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be
too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason
why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure.
They look too weak for providing any structural support.

If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures
of the boat in it:

http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html

Thanks.

Jay Chan

Jay, if the boxy structures you are talking about is where you have
the 6" dimension shown on the second picture on your site, I'd agree
with Rick. That certainly looks like it would stiffen up the back of
the boat, and I'd be very, very leery of removing them.

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote:
jaykchan wrote:
those boxy structures are totally useless

If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be
to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know
several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means.
Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a
boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion.
Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful.

Rick

What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the
corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt
this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be
too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason
why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure.
They look too weak for providing any structural support.

If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures
of the boat in it:

http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html

Thanks.

Jay Chan


Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket