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#1
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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On Jul 31, 5:10 am, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
What about carrying it upside-down, directly on the Subaru's bars? I tried that, but the seats stuck down enough to put pressure onto the roof of the car. I'd have to somehow strap them into the down position, which can be done, but then it brings up the issue that since it's a long open cockpit, the boat is only supported by the edge of the cockpit, which isn't very rigid either. A smaller cockpit on a single would have more deck area and that'd probably work. Maybe something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center, which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and support the boat by its deck. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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Per Rex Kerr:
Maybe something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center, which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and support the boat by its deck. Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru. I know you're biased towards building your own... but that's a *lot* of wood up there and I would expect it to take it's toll in gas mileage when you're just driving around without anything else up there. -- PeteCresswell |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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On Jul 31, 1:14 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Rex Kerr: Maybe something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center, which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and support the boat by its deck. Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru. I can comment on J-racks! They are a PITA to load boats on and off!! Especially long heavy boats like plastic sea kayaks. Pretty much have to lift the boat up and set it in the J-rack, cause if you try to slide it in from the end, the damn J-racks rotate on the bar and get all out of proper alignment! John Kuthe... |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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"John Kuthe" wrote in message
ups.com... On Jul 31, 1:14 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Per Rex Kerr: Maybe something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center, which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and support the boat by its deck. Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru. I can comment on J-racks! They are a PITA to load boats on and off!! Especially long heavy boats like plastic sea kayaks. Pretty much have to lift the boat up and set it in the J-rack, cause if you try to slide it in from the end, the damn J-racks rotate on the bar and get all out of proper alignment! John Kuthe... Not a problem with my Volkswagen Jetta. The CRV's a little worse, have to open a door to step up, but basically put one end in first, then hoist the other. Some swearing is (sometimes) involved. My kayak's a 55 lb 14.5 foot Perception. The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led to permanent damage thus far. -- www.mattclara.com |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far. I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was supposed to prevent that! |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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On Aug 1, 12:37 pm, Rex Kerr wrote:
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led to permanent damage thus far. I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was supposed to prevent that! I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down. John Kuthe... |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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On Aug 1, 2:27 pm, John Kuthe wrote:
I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down. John, it's safe to back into the REI. Yakima abandoned the U-shaped things about 6 years ago. The stackers are vertical bars now. Bad news is they now cost $100 :-( I'm afraid I got lost in your comment about trucker's hitches and loops. Steve |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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John Kuthe wrote:
On Aug 1, 12:37 pm, Rex Kerr wrote: The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led to permanent damage thus far. I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was supposed to prevent that! I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down. Actually they stopped making the U's and went to straight bars (there's a joke there somewhere) some time ago. Steve - still using U shaped stackers and a trucker's hitch. |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
oups.com... The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led to permanent damage thus far. I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was supposed to prevent that! |
#10
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posted to rec.boats.paddle
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"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
oups.com... The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led to permanent damage thus far. I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was supposed to prevent that! You're still strapping it to something, in this case, two things, the front and back j racks. Cinch it down tight enough, and the bottom beer cans where it meets the racks. I suppose I could let off some, but I like my kayak to not move when I try to wiggle it. -- www.mattclara.com |
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