Per Brian Nystrom:
Perhaps, but I rinse my dry suit, dry tops and dry glove after every use
and the seals still only last 3 years or so.

That brings me back to a strong suspicion that I got hosed when I bought my new
Kokatat dry top a couple months ago. The seals are date-stamped "Nov 2004".
--
PeteCresswell

Dear Brian Nystrom:

Brian Nystrom wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
....
I guess there are other factors, even in an inside storage
area - like ozone, temperature, and so-forth.

Ozone is definitely an issue with latex, but I don't think temp
matters much except perhaps if it's extremely hot.

Any chemical reaction is speeded up by temperature (double rate with 10
C deg rise). Ozone is universally present in some concentration. As
are the crosslinkers built into the latex (and the "scissioners"
produced by natural radiation and / or humidity).

Temperature, ozone, and humidity are used to artificially age natural
and artificial rubber goods.

Colder and dryer is better, for storage.

David A. Smith

Dear Brian Nystrom:

Brian Nystrom wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
....
I guess there are other factors, even in an inside storage
area - like ozone, temperature, and so-forth.

Ozone is definitely an issue with latex, but I don't think temp
matters much except perhaps if it's extremely hot.

Any chemical reaction is speeded up by temperature (double rate with 10
C deg rise). Ozone is universally present in some concentration. As
are the crosslinkers built into the latex (and the "scissioners"
produced by natural radiation and / or humidity).

Temperature, ozone, and humidity are used to artificially age natural
and artificial rubber goods.

Colder and dryer is better, for storage.

David A. Smith

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
Perhaps, but I rinse my dry suit, dry tops and dry glove after every use
and the seals still only last 3 years or so.

That brings me back to a strong suspicion that I got hosed when I bought my new
Kokatat dry top a couple months ago. The seals are date-stamped "Nov 2004".

That sounds like an '05 garment to me.

dlzc wrote:

Colder and dryer is better, for storage.

That's why I keep my gear in a dehumidified basement that's between 50
and 70 degrees year round.

Per Brian Nystrom:
That brings me back to a strong suspicion that I got hosed when I bought my new
Kokatat dry top a couple months ago. The seals are date-stamped "Nov 2004".

That sounds like an '05 garment to me.

Probably... but the seals were still over two years old before I even took it
out of the box.
--
PeteCresswell

Brian Nystrom wrote:
Bill Tuthill wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Seeing maybe fifty rental dry suits hanging up in the shop, I asked the guy
there what kind of life he gets out of a set of seals and what they do to
mitigate wear.

The reply was "at least 5 years" and "nothing except rinse in plain water".

Yes, rinsing in water is the next best thing to 303. I still think
303 has an advantage because it makes the latex slippery. Note that
most gaskets are torn when you get into your suit.

You can make the suit easier to put on simply by powdering the inside of
the seals with talc.

I wonder if talc has any preservative value since it is often applied
to rubber products? It would help prevent self adhesion.

Per Davej:
You can make the suit easier to put on simply by powdering the inside of
the seals with talc.

Long long ago and far far away, I made my own full wetsuit.

No fabric was bonded to the neo - it was just the foam on the inside and smooth
rubber on the outside. Also no stitching or tape... just end-glued seams.

Went through quite a bit of talc during my ownership of that suit.

Never ripped, always very supple and easy to get on/off... I wonder if bonding
fabric to the neoprene is as important as people seem to think it is. Ditto
taped/sewn seams.
--
PeteCresswell