We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Todd

Pull the factory cross bars and put them in the basement for resale
w/car, get Yakima or Thule 'towers' and bars, and either company's boat
clips. Spread the bars as far apart as you can, use good straps, and
tie the bow to the tow hooks or use flip-out under hood straps. Worth
every penny you spend, and it's a longer term investment than just one
car. Subaru's factory bars are OK, and their rails are the best in the
industry, IMHO, but I've yet to feel as secure with a fairly hefty boat
on the factory rails. I have 2 sets of bars, 60" and 78". The 78s will
take two 36" beam canoes with ease.
Note - don't get Thule's fancy mounted straps. Just get 12-16' straps
from NRS, Ketter, etc and loop them over and back. Much more secure and
spread the load much better.

Happy paddling,

Marsh


wrote:
We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Todd

Marsh Jones wrote:
Pull the factory cross bars and put them in the basement for resale
w/car, get Yakima or Thule 'towers' and bars, and either company's boat
clips. Spread the bars as far apart as you can, use good straps, and
tie the bow to the tow hooks or use flip-out under hood straps. Worth
every penny you spend, and it's a longer term investment than just one
car. Subaru's factory bars are OK, and their rails are the best in the
industry, IMHO, but I've yet to feel as secure with a fairly hefty boat
on the factory rails. I have 2 sets of bars, 60" and 78". The 78s will
take two 36" beam canoes with ease.
Note - don't get Thule's fancy mounted straps. Just get 12-16' straps
from NRS, Ketter, etc and loop them over and back. Much more secure and
spread the load much better.

Don't know if Subaru still does, but when the Forester was relatively
new and in the Auto Show in STL (mid to late 90s?), the nice Subaru
rep. lady told me Yakima made the factory racks for the Forester, as I
yanked on the Forester's factory rack and moved the entire car on it's
suspension (a trick I use to test the solidness of a rack!)

John Kuthe...

I have a 1996 Subaru Outback. I took a 2 x 4, glued on some neoprene,
stapled on some carpet, screwed on a couple of wood blocks, and just
dropped it onto the Subaru rack main rails. I tie the 2 x 4 to the
cross rails so it does not move around. I tie down the canoe to the
main rails with the heavy NRS straps. I then add a line from the bow to
a couple of pieces of webbing attached to the fender bolts. The bow
line is just a backup, I have run without it. You could add a stern line
if you like, most people do. Works well, installs quickly, I have used
it for well over 1000 miles. The rack cost me less than $5.

However, this strategy seems much less attractive if you want to carry
two canoes. I considered building a wide rack, and decided that it
would just be too complicated. Maybe I will revisit the wide rack
sometime, but I would need to figure out a good way to clamp the 2x4 to
the rails. Maybe I should fire up my forge, and make some custom steel
clamps. ;-)

Richard



wrote:
We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Todd



--
http://www.fergusonsculpture.com
Sculptures in copper and other metals

wrote:

We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Canoes are not that heavy. As long as you tie it down securely you
won't have a problem. People car top on all manner of vehicles (e.g.
Cooper Mini) without a problem.

Make sure you tie a bow line, a stern line, and a belly line. Two belly
lines if you're feeling unlucky. (Hint: Learn to tie a trucker's hitch
instead of buying fancy straps.) You want to excersize due diligence,
but it's not rocket surgery.

Use the 1-10-100 method of making sure your load is secu check it
after one mile, check it again after ten miles, then stop and check it
every 100 miles.

//Walt

RantOK, not to pick on Walt, but what is it about canoes that people
will spend hundreds/thousands on a canoe, an additional pot of money on
racks, and then tie the boat on with a chunk of the cheapest nylon rope
from Home Despot? Buy a good set of straps (15-20bucks) so that you can
put one across each bar, and secure the boat that way, use decent
braided rope (and trucker's hitch or tautline hitch) to tie the bow and
maybe the stern. Sorry, I've seen too many broken boats from cheap
homemade racks and crappy tiedowns. /Rant

That said I agree with everything else Walt says!

Walt wrote:
wrote:

We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Canoes are not that heavy. As long as you tie it down securely you
won't have a problem. People car top on all manner of vehicles (e.g.
Cooper Mini) without a problem.

Make sure you tie a bow line, a stern line, and a belly line. Two belly
lines if you're feeling unlucky. (Hint: Learn to tie a trucker's hitch
instead of buying fancy straps.) You want to excersize due diligence,
but it's not rocket surgery.

Use the 1-10-100 method of making sure your load is secu check it
after one mile, check it again after ten miles, then stop and check it
every 100 miles.

//Walt

On 2 Jan 2007 16:39:41 -0800, wrote:

We're looking into purchasing a used canoe (an Old Town Penobscot 16, a
16 footer) and the only car we have to carry it is a 2005 Subaru
Forester. There's a roof rack on the forester, and from rough tape
measure estimates, it looks like it'll be close, but it will fit. I'm
curious, though, if anyone has any experience with trying to carry a
canoe on a stock Subaru rack, and what suggestions you would have.
We've done plenty of canoeing, but have never had our own to carry
around.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Todd

I carry a canoe on a honda C-RV with factory racks that are viryually
the same. I use foam blocks to protect the gunwales and the rack. I
tie it down to the rack and both bow and stern. You have to make sure
the stern line is attached somewhere on the canoe so that the line is
running forward from the bumper to provide tension opposite the bow
line. I've used both ropes and straps at different times and it's a
personal choice which you prefer.

Marsh Jones wrote:
RantOK, not to pick on Walt, but what is it about canoes that people
will spend hundreds/thousands on a canoe, an additional pot of money on
racks, and then tie the boat on with a chunk of the cheapest nylon rope
from Home Despot? Buy a good set of straps (15-20bucks) so that you can
put one across each bar, and secure the boat that way, use decent
braided rope (and trucker's hitch or tautline hitch) to tie the bow and
maybe the stern. Sorry, I've seen too many broken boats from cheap
homemade racks and crappy tiedowns. /Rant

That said I agree with everything else Walt says!

I'm pretty much in agreement with Marsh that people could put more
thought in to how they secure their expensive investment onto the roof
of their car, however I usually see a different type of negligence than
just having a crappy tiedown.

rant
Folks will investigate and analyze different boats ad nauseum, weighing
the advantages and constraints of kevlar vs fiberglass vs ABS (vs wood
vs canvas), wood rails vs vinyl, length, width, tumblehome, etc etc.
Folks will assert their individual preferences, determine what is of
value to themselves and their unique situation, then buy what they have
determined to be the best personal choice of boat for their style of
boating....then they get all brain-dead and buy a prepackaged tie-down
kit that fits on any generic car or boat. The tie down should be
thought out and customized at least as much as the boat, IMNSHO.

My personal (overanalytical) experience is that a decent braided rope
is de rigeur for the bow and stern tiedowns. And instead of using a
permanent loop (tied with a butterfly, for example) for the trucker's
hitch, I deliberately spread the wear and tear around by tying an
overhand loop at a slightly different place each time.

For the belly lines (also de rigeur), I have found that a rope has its
advantages: it slides to the best position easily, does not vibrate or
hum in the wind, and accepts a trucker's hitch easily no matter how the
rope is initially tossed over. It also can be used as the tie-down
leash for the gear once I am on the river, and a frayed end can be
easily cut off.

However, straps also have some distinct advantages: the buckles are
more secure in wet conditions, its easier to untie when unloading the
boat, and they do not leave 'wear zones' on the hull of boat as a
rubbing rope will eventually do. Also, there's something satisfying
about making a pair of straps that are exactly the right length for
securing your boat on your vehicle; just be sure that you don't let the
ends fray.

However, no matter which one you choose, it should be a deliberate
CHOICE, taking into account the advantages of each one and used in a
manner that best utilizes those advantages.

In any case, those prepackaged tie-down kits are a waste of money, and
they send a rather embarassing signal about your ability to really
analyze a situation. Strange as it sounds, but I feel uncomfortable
paddling with someone who I don't believe 'thinks about things', but
instead relies on dogma and protocol, and if I notice my paddle partner
using some prepackaged tiedown kit, my opinion of their ability to
troubleshoot on-river situations deteriorates.

YMMV
/rant

--riverman

riverman wrote:
[snip] However, no matter which one you choose, it should be a deliberate
CHOICE, taking into account the advantages of each one and used in a
manner that best utilizes those advantages.

In any case, those prepackaged tie-down kits are a waste of money, and
they send a rather embarassing signal about your ability to really
analyze a situation. Strange as it sounds, but I feel uncomfortable
paddling with someone who I don't believe 'thinks about things', but
instead relies on dogma and protocol, and if I notice my paddle partner
using some prepackaged tiedown kit, my opinion of their ability to
troubleshoot on-river situations deteriorates.

YMMV
/rant

--riverman

The *worst* are the ratcheting straps found 'four for $9.99' at Home
Depot/K-mart/et al. I replaced two gunwhales last year as a direct
result of those (not to mention the stress it caused the hull) and a
just rescued another. And yeah - a slip knot instead of a more
permanent loop is my preference on bow lines.

Marsh

So where should you buy ropes and straps? And how does someone who is
new to all of this determine what kind of ropes and straps to buy?